tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65910669609071205492024-03-26T20:24:59.925+11:00Sons of the Desert - A Bushwalking BlogPhotos and descriptions of some walks in the bush,
mainly around Sydney.DBMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02267044904600856553noreply@blogger.comBlogger73125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-81761521270578637902020-10-08T18:40:00.001+11:002020-10-08T21:25:33.225+11:00 New England Wilderness Walk <p>September 29 - October 1st 2020 </p><p>Calling this a <i>wilderness</i> walk is slightly exaggerated since apart from 5km of creek-walking in the middle the 33km route follows old forest and farm roads, most of which are well-maintained. Moreover, a substantial section is through abandoned farmland - we harvested lemons and strawberries on this trip. But it's a lovely walk with a variety of forest types, and the diversity and abundance of birdlife was truly impressive. As a bonus, it's downhill all the way.<br /></p><p>Our trip was fitted into a working week as one member of the party works weekends. We drove the five hours to Bellingen on Monday afternoon, arriving just in time for a good dinner at the Diggers Tavern and settling into the truly beautiful Bellingen YHA (aka The Belfry).<br /></p><p>We awoke to a perfect blue sky, and perfect view across the Bellinger River valley to the Dorrigo Plateau, skeins of mist rising from the river and surrounding forest. As we sat in the garden waiting for the 7am opening of the nearby bakery a pair of Green Catbirds flew in to take a quick drink from a Buddha's head fountain. While often heard in the bush around Sydney, somewhere between a caterwauling tomcat and a crying baby, these bowerbird relatives are rarely seen. But here they seemed perfectly unconcerned by our presence.</p><p> </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmzN7PVrNyC-iCFNeXQ5V9xV05wWBbTECTLoTTk7H_vVGb8QrWMRTLkovxYw29uQWtmqJp8Ym2xUoC6iMFHhriEV24JBTSU5h_AXNWwwkxbmdRdR7IHNCU6UpdOet7JsbdimGsTUppPr03/s2048/IMG_2266.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmzN7PVrNyC-iCFNeXQ5V9xV05wWBbTECTLoTTk7H_vVGb8QrWMRTLkovxYw29uQWtmqJp8Ym2xUoC6iMFHhriEV24JBTSU5h_AXNWwwkxbmdRdR7IHNCU6UpdOet7JsbdimGsTUppPr03/w640-h480/IMG_2266.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpDHDFIaKgfwgEinTp2HtCkjBTHtGqRDbql-EITMDE6T6RdgeRns9ArUZ4kkkJaVJiSkVdy2xToNc-ISaxJA0en56mQgq2RxJQUOztLWv5JjyuDSoSCvDLeEDvhoDMg0GofXUUqVLtMKvf/s2048/IMG_2270.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1161" data-original-width="2048" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpDHDFIaKgfwgEinTp2HtCkjBTHtGqRDbql-EITMDE6T6RdgeRns9ArUZ4kkkJaVJiSkVdy2xToNc-ISaxJA0en56mQgq2RxJQUOztLWv5JjyuDSoSCvDLeEDvhoDMg0GofXUUqVLtMKvf/w640-h362/IMG_2270.jpg" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p>Excellent coffee and croissants at the Hearth Fire bakery, and purchase of two loaves for the trip, was followed by a gear inspection. This revealed we were short one tent - a basic error. Calls to local acquaintances failed to raise a substitute, so we were forced to make a detour to Coffs Harbour where Anaconda had a serviceable little dome tent for $53! As a result of this unforced error, and the already 1.5 hour drive to the start of the walk, it was 11.45am when we finally left the car near Point Lookout and headed down Robinson's Knob fire trail.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEZwSvrR75Kn5vTu1wFGgc_7Wmi4VgM444iVGCTkAlNPqFeT9EceGgqzDxzbfxcqU50mZNCPb7RE2nJcpEnEPeFOPNxIBEk4AQ0gUj3uO1WFa4Gjxu0yRKc6HbCN1_mjE0Z1tZcl8o7fv1/s2048/IMG_2275.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEZwSvrR75Kn5vTu1wFGgc_7Wmi4VgM444iVGCTkAlNPqFeT9EceGgqzDxzbfxcqU50mZNCPb7RE2nJcpEnEPeFOPNxIBEk4AQ0gUj3uO1WFa4Gjxu0yRKc6HbCN1_mjE0Z1tZcl8o7fv1/w480-h640/IMG_2275.jpg" width="480" /></a></div> <p></p><p>The walk starts at 1350m, high on the New England Tablelands and in the first few hours it drops 1100m to the headwaters of the Bellinger River. We started walking through southern beech forest (<i>Nothofagus</i>) which I was not expecting. After a couple of hours walking steeply downhill on a broad, well-maintained road we turned down Grasstree Ridge vegetated by groves of Xanthhorhea both tall and low, a disused road running for 8km past an old mine and onwards to Sunday Creek, a tributary of the Bellinger. The trail is well-named, as there is a dense understory of these particularly beautiful grass trees - tall, rarely branching and with a knobbly trunk like a banskia. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbvSU8vePBKCa_sXQBlZ1Ncf32Q-dqBthekZksnsQMSRt38wNbasyFvIxPjqr9fj3z2Qeh3IdQoHSsikEOYcvec4LwEbd0zWLTzPZPaGeaC-iAK_nB0i7F2WhMS9-61E9UgVySBRDgONMp/s2048/IMG_2278.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbvSU8vePBKCa_sXQBlZ1Ncf32Q-dqBthekZksnsQMSRt38wNbasyFvIxPjqr9fj3z2Qeh3IdQoHSsikEOYcvec4LwEbd0zWLTzPZPaGeaC-iAK_nB0i7F2WhMS9-61E9UgVySBRDgONMp/w640-h480/IMG_2278.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwf0I926phYiQPXyJT5hjjiiRBSixPguwGc7bFxDx8QZzOyMejSMXMbsTdAeKi2sR1AIXiuvJkSWUWza6iS_cZA7odK74p-TeK8G44CxcjIcaNGQR-HVI7vqNd4__mwqdi2bWnpOgWRL9_/s2048/IMG_2281.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwf0I926phYiQPXyJT5hjjiiRBSixPguwGc7bFxDx8QZzOyMejSMXMbsTdAeKi2sR1AIXiuvJkSWUWza6iS_cZA7odK74p-TeK8G44CxcjIcaNGQR-HVI7vqNd4__mwqdi2bWnpOgWRL9_/w480-h640/IMG_2281.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>The Grasstree Trail is still in remarkably good condition, given how steep it is and that it has not been used for decades. There are no washouts, no landslides, just a few tangles of vine across the road, mainly at the start and finish, and remarkably few fallen trees, so you can make a good pace. But is is certainly steep! Because of this much of the road is cut deeply into the hillside, and it would be very hard to lose even if it were more choked with vegetation. </p><p>Having started so late I promised my companions we would stop at the 700m contour or 5.00pm, whichever came first. We reached the 700m line at 4.30, and set up camp in a saddle between two knolls, with the tents in a row on the flat section of track. We had to be as economical with water, as it was a dry camp, but we had enough to leave 1/2 litre each for the morning, and after a dinner of tuna couscous and some chocolate we were in bed by 8.30pm.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGgTkYk8XlKMKMhzWLOQzTv-2vwz1rULw2UR0KpHTuukM0zMZw5aCWRQZyj0GZ7112xk7p7FVDpB6e7C7jfe3VIXQvJEe7uhYY5n788hy44sJuIMcxTpQUh0Bm-GW9mEwLRR2hhpB3IYhr/s2048/IMG_2283.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGgTkYk8XlKMKMhzWLOQzTv-2vwz1rULw2UR0KpHTuukM0zMZw5aCWRQZyj0GZ7112xk7p7FVDpB6e7C7jfe3VIXQvJEe7uhYY5n788hy44sJuIMcxTpQUh0Bm-GW9mEwLRR2hhpB3IYhr/w640-h480/IMG_2283.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>In the morning we ate scrambled eggs with magnificent olive sourdough bread from the Hearth Fire bakery, then removed traces of our fire. We had dug a pit in the middle of the track and cleared the leaf litter for a couple of metres. Once the pit of cold ashes was covered with soil there would be little trace of our passing. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE5RVDebALbj_SHH4IbvI2h9fJyNodrTc5Gpdoh_1sg5uWpQC50jzYuzr9uVueoiSqxqgpUnkuXe5O9UqiKU-YlwRv5d0WIqCCSj_zA2vu56kAkHarXeCDv3hOT1wgfI_ZLFr6gnS4CPRO/s2048/IMG_2288.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE5RVDebALbj_SHH4IbvI2h9fJyNodrTc5Gpdoh_1sg5uWpQC50jzYuzr9uVueoiSqxqgpUnkuXe5O9UqiKU-YlwRv5d0WIqCCSj_zA2vu56kAkHarXeCDv3hOT1wgfI_ZLFr6gnS4CPRO/w640-h480/IMG_2288.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWnVDcASz5ek4mJCar2Tv_f5Fb5d_fWu_zu6FygO1VqnNCz4MMLx8jN2jT8rJV9gyg-oPPq3UZ7yNaPlmhc62Jp6YtK0DzWCY6GL1mce40RR6vW_7zz1neeGdOrzS9kxfLlMdimbNGPfsJ/s2048/IMG_2291.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWnVDcASz5ek4mJCar2Tv_f5Fb5d_fWu_zu6FygO1VqnNCz4MMLx8jN2jT8rJV9gyg-oPPq3UZ7yNaPlmhc62Jp6YtK0DzWCY6GL1mce40RR6vW_7zz1neeGdOrzS9kxfLlMdimbNGPfsJ/w480-h640/IMG_2291.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p><br />The trail continued much the same as the day before, eventually slipping off the east side of the ridge to descend in a series of bends to Sunday Creek. The campsite at Sunday Creek is very pleasant, with a clear area of soft leaf-litter and a big fire-circle. It would be the obvious place to stop at the end of Day One if you had started at a reasonably hour, and would be about 6 hours from the start point for a group of experienced bushwalkers.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlYa2asARosdBFCaHMozhTbZPnVspZ16DtHDV_5KTd-eLH3jmFM98-Mjb71BCv89-RTawWrUILDcLBtKJb3NEQQc8ii0dPP41glAIpbEDHbDf328230IZJ0GWxvFwnb4POSd74MUfD8gHR/s2048/IMG_2292.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlYa2asARosdBFCaHMozhTbZPnVspZ16DtHDV_5KTd-eLH3jmFM98-Mjb71BCv89-RTawWrUILDcLBtKJb3NEQQc8ii0dPP41glAIpbEDHbDf328230IZJ0GWxvFwnb4POSd74MUfD8gHR/w640-h480/IMG_2292.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Sunday Creek itself is broad with a bottom of boulders and gravel, soon joined by Platypus Creek to form a more substantial creek, but still broad and shallow and descending very gradually towards the main river. The banks are dense rainforest with plenty of lawyer-vine so the only reasonable option is to walk in the creek, which was reasonably straightforward with only a few thigh-deep wades. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKcFSdnZPtfPJkwjyhsJmKRtnny_8rTwZcYV3oFnKmcEvEY-ZvoZP5gxAhvGWTD9bm-lxSNaZoHSgqHEUfYAut1VpR1_hyPFk2to97hq0kkltCFs6MvB2y2MYOouYV6VQwgcnJir2Q2SCh/s2048/IMG_2295.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1525" data-original-width="2048" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKcFSdnZPtfPJkwjyhsJmKRtnny_8rTwZcYV3oFnKmcEvEY-ZvoZP5gxAhvGWTD9bm-lxSNaZoHSgqHEUfYAut1VpR1_hyPFk2to97hq0kkltCFs6MvB2y2MYOouYV6VQwgcnJir2Q2SCh/w640-h476/IMG_2295.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZAlRqlZO6u4fS3YLoP1VzCGZYAd8btmmP-JB3MzHjiTAFNfsoO4jRgO45-_DiLqvjNRgYCHdeaHHiOi7nPUG9zTZGz-8AIQfFmtCCrGAEz7E67xdeCNFOSSiXZ3UHAdnNqPfZlKP8rhB/s2048/IMG_2296.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZAlRqlZO6u4fS3YLoP1VzCGZYAd8btmmP-JB3MzHjiTAFNfsoO4jRgO45-_DiLqvjNRgYCHdeaHHiOi7nPUG9zTZGz-8AIQfFmtCCrGAEz7E67xdeCNFOSSiXZ3UHAdnNqPfZlKP8rhB/w480-h640/IMG_2296.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6m_tq7GTq7r2KVR7inkxUeIjqQ8UlwJJV73HDiYbkBBg4QcGHPJrC3NEJPlPqTvREedDiUNtnNF-cgi_9VxmKGJG1jNi-nCI3InhIDOT-bDBtbOhx1loizzglYzbDJwKWsjx7mTM9Q-Vg/s2048/IMG_2300.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1612" data-original-width="2048" height="504" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6m_tq7GTq7r2KVR7inkxUeIjqQ8UlwJJV73HDiYbkBBg4QcGHPJrC3NEJPlPqTvREedDiUNtnNF-cgi_9VxmKGJG1jNi-nCI3InhIDOT-bDBtbOhx1loizzglYzbDJwKWsjx7mTM9Q-Vg/w640-h504/IMG_2300.jpg" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p>We had read in a previous trip report that the whole area is a mass of Stinging Tree (gympie-gympie) so one of my companions had packed her full bush regenerator gear of thick gloves, secateurs and folding saw to cut a path through the jungle! None of this saw any use, except the saw for cutting firewood and the loaf of bread! We saw exactly 2 stinging trees in the whole trip, not large specimens and well off the track. However, we saw thousands of tobacco plants (<i>Solanum mauretanium</i>), a common invasive weed that someone could mistake for stinging tree, especially in the paranoid mindset induced after being stung by the real thing! But they are very easy to distinguish once someone has pointed out the difference, and the tobacco plant grows abundantly in disturbed areas around Sydney, so many people are familiar with it. In fact, we were in much more danger from being stung by another Urticaceae species, the European stinging nettle, carried up the river from the abandoned farms by birds and bushwalker's boots. </p><p> We did, however, have a close encounter with a large and healthy red-bellied black snake, reported by the person closest to it to have smiled at her before disappearing into a tussock of Lomandra. <br /></p><p>A couple of kilometres of creek walking brought us to the banks of the Bellinger river where we had lunch. The Bellingen bakery's excellent nutty tasting Rye Loaf with tomato, cheese and the very last of the butter. The road starts a couple of kilometers further downstream, so we crossed to the far bank and cut across the river flats there, and then along the bank on gravel and small boulders, until we picked up Darkwood Road. The rest of the walk simply follows the old road along the river until it becomes open to traffic. In their usual manner the Lands Department have deleted the middle section of the road from the topo maps, but in fact it is still there and clearly still used by National Parks vehicles. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT2EPkvV3WAY-YIKLdHnf30iRzkFasTXN6_V8ZE2YZQ-r2mxu6bZUnWhaonvV_iaqBlchKQAjZTr9SuGj9LAuninldWbxMtaRybQJIR5McH9sG1tp5A3uJjdboWqwKWBYpLhyMqOuI1SZM/s2048/IMG_2302.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1602" data-original-width="2048" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT2EPkvV3WAY-YIKLdHnf30iRzkFasTXN6_V8ZE2YZQ-r2mxu6bZUnWhaonvV_iaqBlchKQAjZTr9SuGj9LAuninldWbxMtaRybQJIR5McH9sG1tp5A3uJjdboWqwKWBYpLhyMqOuI1SZM/w640-h500/IMG_2302.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>The next section of the walk was a little disappointing - a well-maintained dirt road with roadside vegetation of invasive weeds - lantana thickets, tobacco plant and so forth. There was some reforestation work evident. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9sIwhCs6beP5A-Kv33dmNDxDY7AKLF7raquPivj3r8LMVTKwM5KLjOr_8lYWdW9WZvQylJj0V1SDMOoq5WDcgqXIjcma1hmV8D7zaUpqAuvsZs355NJ5MNBcPJMnQ0UMQS0aKAz7MhUA6/s2048/IMG_2310.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9sIwhCs6beP5A-Kv33dmNDxDY7AKLF7raquPivj3r8LMVTKwM5KLjOr_8lYWdW9WZvQylJj0V1SDMOoq5WDcgqXIjcma1hmV8D7zaUpqAuvsZs355NJ5MNBcPJMnQ0UMQS0aKAz7MhUA6/w640-h480/IMG_2310.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Like all well-engineered roads this one avoided the river when possible and headed into the hills, snaking up and around the heads of gullies. We were happy to arrive at the turn off to the first plausible riverside camping area, labelled 'Woods camp' on the map. This was, indeed, an old farm clearing in a bend in the river, but there was no cleared area to camp and the whole area was a mass of brambles, stinging nettles and tobacco plant. On the plus side, there were some lemon trees carrying fruit, which turned out to be the edible, not too sour kind, and birds love this kind of country with dense cover and abundant food - I immediately saw a Crested Shrike Thrush and a pair of Rufous Whistlers. We found an area of of tangled grass reasonably free of spiky and stingy things to put the tents on and crushed down a path through the nettles to the river bank where we found some a decent spot to spend the evening. Time for a swim.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBddmnbSVIVJw86QOEvb-dPAOz5Aqbn8eDBJFuNpKfO0rUiGcTM4AY_L7MX8UXI3q6nxJxbfAm38ChxWLMV7YqvZavHtLbjUE2mZpK_jh8edBA6lhNfCn77SQvjLzg8Er_U3gUMvfxE87/s2048/IMG_2306.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBddmnbSVIVJw86QOEvb-dPAOz5Aqbn8eDBJFuNpKfO0rUiGcTM4AY_L7MX8UXI3q6nxJxbfAm38ChxWLMV7YqvZavHtLbjUE2mZpK_jh8edBA6lhNfCn77SQvjLzg8Er_U3gUMvfxE87/w640-h480/IMG_2306.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Next morning it was scrambled eggs again, and rye bread, sadly without butter. Then we set off up and up the hill to walk along Darkwood Road, passing abandoned farm buildings and a work crew busy removing asbestos and demolishing them. This was our warmest day, and in the open country walking in full sun through old, overgrown fields we felt pretty hot. Soon, however, we forded the river once more and the road started to follow the river. This section of the walk was lovely - a green road through shady forest running a few metres above a beautiful, rocky river. It reminded me of some of the low altitude long distance walking tracks in France - a wild river valley amongst the farming country. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4a67fy1NAs3Iae8YuF1O9cYyVb9ScQTqIS-Sj5DSMllZ2QNSi8fX5xyFCC_kMZIhgfUWJbMx7CqoS2Pz3kKUEq2_HeoT9s1BSmrWAm9rStk_5sXylTDhrg96as2IxbYCDKV_fFOUN5nwA/s2048/IMG_2314.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4a67fy1NAs3Iae8YuF1O9cYyVb9ScQTqIS-Sj5DSMllZ2QNSi8fX5xyFCC_kMZIhgfUWJbMx7CqoS2Pz3kKUEq2_HeoT9s1BSmrWAm9rStk_5sXylTDhrg96as2IxbYCDKV_fFOUN5nwA/w640-h480/IMG_2314.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>We had arranged for the helpful people at Bellingen Canoe Hire to meet us and drive us back up to the car, and as the meeting time was fast approaching I pushed on ahead of the others and arrived at 1.00. The last point you can drive to on Darkwood Rd is where the road is shown ending on the topographic map. It's easy to see when you arrive - a bridge has been removed leaving only a concrete pier in the middle of the river and after that ford there are properties along the road. My companions followed at their own pace stopping for one last afternoon tea break and managing to disturb a few more juvenile brown snakes from sunning themselves on the track, and when I got back with the car at 5.00 I found them sitting in camping chairs drinking tea and eating Arnotts Shortbread biscuits - they had been befriended by one of the local property owners. All that remained was to drive back to the YHA for a shower and another fine meal at the Diggers Arms.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbW4JjirfzXdEOaS-yOR2ATdMnee4fWanYrrJ4tEFN6szkgoVWKUsYigNvNKLD_jRlbRPM9n6LO5q6mX2spd09SCGgc-SFLkdledvWd8PECa1xy2SM7zfkEwiAmOI9ty6aGxEclE_sAaL0/s2048/IMG_2313.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1539" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbW4JjirfzXdEOaS-yOR2ATdMnee4fWanYrrJ4tEFN6szkgoVWKUsYigNvNKLD_jRlbRPM9n6LO5q6mX2spd09SCGgc-SFLkdledvWd8PECa1xy2SM7zfkEwiAmOI9ty6aGxEclE_sAaL0/w640-h480/IMG_2313.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Next morning we awoke to another brilliant blue day and brilliant view, and fortified with first-rate coffee and pastries from Hearth Fire it was time to head home. We had conquered the New England Wilderness Walk and lived to trek another day.<br /></p><p> </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKmbOx50Usrkw0eUJGVAJD4E60Pz-1I3wmkTZNwbf3AzG1NDx21Pjd5bWATu9ulVYirOfEs7JbXxonXTIY3LrWkOrJz3A2qFEfTuOeXXR0QsA8bk5xv1wv37atXafCER_bym2UbUVib94B/s2048/IMG_2325.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKmbOx50Usrkw0eUJGVAJD4E60Pz-1I3wmkTZNwbf3AzG1NDx21Pjd5bWATu9ulVYirOfEs7JbXxonXTIY3LrWkOrJz3A2qFEfTuOeXXR0QsA8bk5xv1wv37atXafCER_bym2UbUVib94B/w640-h480/IMG_2325.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEindOSu3r9mkrTD1mUsLSX1Sa00qCKVYpA7qHRVUIjS9Wki2qd7XwGvW11_vncsX6n6LcSCy9UrcE0HwTITGntgEvS7ZJ4f91qPKWSafNsW9_jxAMP7mwq72p9Q9GXcspXV51-F0rTGVGQQ/s2048/IMG_2322.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1426" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEindOSu3r9mkrTD1mUsLSX1Sa00qCKVYpA7qHRVUIjS9Wki2qd7XwGvW11_vncsX6n6LcSCy9UrcE0HwTITGntgEvS7ZJ4f91qPKWSafNsW9_jxAMP7mwq72p9Q9GXcspXV51-F0rTGVGQQ/w446-h640/IMG_2322.jpg" width="446" /></a></div><br /><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-14216588034598269832017-09-06T00:07:00.000+10:002017-09-06T00:27:54.971+10:00Pyrenean Trek Part 2: Aragon<a href="https://sonsofthedesert-abushwalkingblog.blogspot.co.uk/2017/09/pyrenean-trek-part-1-bearn.html">Back to Part I: Béarn</a><br />
<br />
After saying good bye to Hugh in Gavarnie I headed over the border to Spain. For the rest of my trip I was in the Aragonese Pyrenees, which are absolutely spectacular.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKjY7phzK9sotDDi1gWc3n5rVOpGcVaHk4JWz7Rgz58_DRfsKjakODQNHQHSZojRh3dWRkwL8u90QAoqWzrKcRKI2qsa6PGFRx1-ed4Y-Bo56uGRGhjR_CzobfcRH3k9AyyYC8i9tIcf51/s1600/IMG_4249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKjY7phzK9sotDDi1gWc3n5rVOpGcVaHk4JWz7Rgz58_DRfsKjakODQNHQHSZojRh3dWRkwL8u90QAoqWzrKcRKI2qsa6PGFRx1-ed4Y-Bo56uGRGhjR_CzobfcRH3k9AyyYC8i9tIcf51/s1600/IMG_4249.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brêche de Roland from about 200m below the pass. </td></tr>
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<b>Pyrenean Trek Day 12</b><br />
Breakfast on a perfect morning camped just below the
Brêche de Roland - 3C and no wind. I crawled the last 250m up to the
Brêche with far too much in my bag - about 17kg I think - and then hid
it behind a rock and walked up Le Taillon (3144m) with a few essentials. There were lots of other walkers as it was Saturday and there is a carpark at 2200m
making Le Taillon a popular day trip. I was feeling strangely weak, with
everything taking far too much effort, but nevertheless was ba<span class="text_exposed_show">ck
at the Brêche by 12.30 so decided to head on to Refugio de Goriz, as it
is only a few km and mostly downhill. The landscape is very barren, with
sublime views of the peaks and the Ordessa Canyon. I was really feeling
poorly and took a lot of breaks, but nevertheless was at Goriz by 4.30. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEJfmpq_cIR86B2-TWBfL1nZWolstZAShrRyb0kbdFQBTdf-bFVW1QGwIXAAfQEjs7XiBKzfxhiRnjMYMTNfIRKkkgStlmt2fnHsbNXGrV7yrXkw9lxdT_eKT57w-chnWs60XL53yuHMf/s1600/IMG_4250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="714" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEJfmpq_cIR86B2-TWBfL1nZWolstZAShrRyb0kbdFQBTdf-bFVW1QGwIXAAfQEjs7XiBKzfxhiRnjMYMTNfIRKkkgStlmt2fnHsbNXGrV7yrXkw9lxdT_eKT57w-chnWs60XL53yuHMf/s1600/IMG_4250.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view into Spain from the Brêche</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNPzcz3L50OxjPOPIdh8g8_-V0GTf9gNnNkVtkCoyZoS1qDnEk5w0Z7QKLmpqS6ikITYHF7LCbIS647vP9W3o2EcvHcrB4StNaOOAX9MW3a-toAPx-X7qUJNPeAFuYFEsfolt4WAl3yTGL/s1600/IMG_4252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNPzcz3L50OxjPOPIdh8g8_-V0GTf9gNnNkVtkCoyZoS1qDnEk5w0Z7QKLmpqS6ikITYHF7LCbIS647vP9W3o2EcvHcrB4StNaOOAX9MW3a-toAPx-X7qUJNPeAFuYFEsfolt4WAl3yTGL/s640/IMG_4252.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le Doigt (digit) - a rock pinncle on the way to Le Taillon</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIYWjK_bUGGvUlNp-4-y8myQv5TM7WRWfgFRodtt9yVNZ_GzHFk9tf4f0IusTUdJDnTL1TX_Y0CGXkFIX2ajdNpQoh3njIbUtoyd_t2KBSwVu1RgG2x-4WvCxlRej23S8d93kKVtECAqvh/s1600/IMG_4253.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIYWjK_bUGGvUlNp-4-y8myQv5TM7WRWfgFRodtt9yVNZ_GzHFk9tf4f0IusTUdJDnTL1TX_Y0CGXkFIX2ajdNpQoh3njIbUtoyd_t2KBSwVu1RgG2x-4WvCxlRej23S8d93kKVtECAqvh/s640/IMG_4253.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On top of Le Taillon, 3144m</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Yd8koKCFAWXpShAa3r18nPiKf6KD-YSxs8oJ_R0p328XzquPWtHQAwh4wsDwKbZusuA9bbNfatRnVmXnK9Y049rhJf84I-teuQiSKp6t6JlETMSptqxkMTtgeSicmUvYC6lcxqA7wmyc/s1600/IMG_4260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Yd8koKCFAWXpShAa3r18nPiKf6KD-YSxs8oJ_R0p328XzquPWtHQAwh4wsDwKbZusuA9bbNfatRnVmXnK9Y049rhJf84I-teuQiSKp6t6JlETMSptqxkMTtgeSicmUvYC6lcxqA7wmyc/s640/IMG_4260.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spanish side of the Brêche de Roland from the Le Taillon track</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuT4or6Oh01ryps-XW2s6h6l11N71ZQYiK2801Sl46PQnP8dm-PlYRdHAv-7jGChqWd2UfWaJpSk6hb3-R12K7rvYL2KFjwiplXjhcukqPmPIf-g-4JZX4fxaBAigj2cRzEFa0R8oD7bt/s1600/IMG_4265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="989" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuT4or6Oh01ryps-XW2s6h6l11N71ZQYiK2801Sl46PQnP8dm-PlYRdHAv-7jGChqWd2UfWaJpSk6hb3-R12K7rvYL2KFjwiplXjhcukqPmPIf-g-4JZX4fxaBAigj2cRzEFa0R8oD7bt/s640/IMG_4265.jpg" width="394" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A section of the Spanish track with chains to hold.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVaY5eMAXTYYecyCjoKEvWx1VnajhwaTk3oTvKEttrmJmvPKAmRChLrAzmrp3OCp4NzDU5G6Ce75YxowZ2ZEqMTJ-uX6OokJ3zBvEoNCOyEYKHc7YEATxZIgpI2Ng6iS5LOyfIftoeB6Kl/s1600/IMG_4270.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVaY5eMAXTYYecyCjoKEvWx1VnajhwaTk3oTvKEttrmJmvPKAmRChLrAzmrp3OCp4NzDU5G6Ce75YxowZ2ZEqMTJ-uX6OokJ3zBvEoNCOyEYKHc7YEATxZIgpI2Ng6iS5LOyfIftoeB6Kl/s640/IMG_4270.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Brêche, Doigt and Le Taillon seen from Spain</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_YWrSb00PMkaSZWZpGbrzeNeDW8WGLKF2Noztlg3w2oUWKZ67vTkeasfKR3Ch_-nY7G3tTDrJPBBDKOLni6xEku4TKpCqKbM7Qt1KiKl2XbQSAjnderLFxyq-PqyJxdufAs09EzzYP9si/s1600/IMG_4278.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_YWrSb00PMkaSZWZpGbrzeNeDW8WGLKF2Noztlg3w2oUWKZ67vTkeasfKR3Ch_-nY7G3tTDrJPBBDKOLni6xEku4TKpCqKbM7Qt1KiKl2XbQSAjnderLFxyq-PqyJxdufAs09EzzYP9si/s1600/IMG_4278.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from inside the Caves de Castaret</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjWNsrRsgVUEIVLSh7IXe0RmrvkxHZu3Pg19EzAocBU7dHKDtSMhyphenhyphensLq7fqNcOZv4Rt6WNnA2B62IxvmZOCR6lvNaztLeKBXNjMolvkua2hBXdSfmeoW7HcUowrtVZndZhCPUX9Rx4ll6D/s1600/IMG_4279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="761" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjWNsrRsgVUEIVLSh7IXe0RmrvkxHZu3Pg19EzAocBU7dHKDtSMhyphenhyphensLq7fqNcOZv4Rt6WNnA2B62IxvmZOCR6lvNaztLeKBXNjMolvkua2hBXdSfmeoW7HcUowrtVZndZhCPUX9Rx4ll6D/s1600/IMG_4279.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Collada de Milares</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNTNQLt3vnpp620HCw_l30GepgUSZwhcVbiTnZshhdq9RiyzM_J4rqGSLq3yXC4MDMYqc0wbSRoyKK3Oj9uKhD42uqete4nJVjucIxxFnvrTmoL9pi3W1LgKnb9p7pi-2wvVyPeyqM-zGP/s1600/IMG_4281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="725" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNTNQLt3vnpp620HCw_l30GepgUSZwhcVbiTnZshhdq9RiyzM_J4rqGSLq3yXC4MDMYqc0wbSRoyKK3Oj9uKhD42uqete4nJVjucIxxFnvrTmoL9pi3W1LgKnb9p7pi-2wvVyPeyqM-zGP/s1600/IMG_4281.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Track to Góriz</td></tr>
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There were m<span class="text_exposed_show">asses of locals camped around the Refuge de Góriz on Saturday evening ready to climb
Monte Perdido in the morning. After pitching my tent I washed and dried
the day's clothes using famous the drybag washing machine, had a
fine meal at the refuge (so many people they had to do two sittings),
read a couple of chapters of a novel, and fell asleep hoping
to feel better in the morning.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkBBTEcXEJ7dIWZaeihPtfev75-uzP8Rygkp0d4EQcTBxe72dSzvzSBNSPWBY6qLAcVLJJFUhnKBKim3B8ddwnO-q3YOrcx2FQmM2UCw11jY0JUPU5t6ofPaw0yy1IOMsUGj2OsFkdIqcU/s1600/IMG_4284.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkBBTEcXEJ7dIWZaeihPtfev75-uzP8Rygkp0d4EQcTBxe72dSzvzSBNSPWBY6qLAcVLJJFUhnKBKim3B8ddwnO-q3YOrcx2FQmM2UCw11jY0JUPU5t6ofPaw0yy1IOMsUGj2OsFkdIqcU/s640/IMG_4284.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Supplies arrive by helicopter at Refugio de Góriz</td></tr>
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<b><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 13</span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show">Woke up feeling rested but still not well and also
peeing blood. Not good. I flattered myself I had just walked very hard
the last two days, but realistically it was probably an infection
and explained why I felt so weak the day before. I was either going to get worse
or better, and Refugio Góriz, which is only supplied by helicopter,
seemed a bad place to get worse so I decided to stick to the plan and
walk to Refugio Pineta, which is on a road. I was glad<span class="text_exposed_show">
I did, as this was one of the finest days of mountain walking I have
done. I had a brutal purge of my pack the night before, discarding four
days food and everything I had not used so far, which I reckon got it
down from 17kg to about 15kg and made all the difference as far as the
feel of the pack went. I walked slowly to the col and then up the slopes
of Punta las Solas to 2700m, about 500m above Góriz. I had decided to
follow the more spectacular 'old' GR11 rather than the new, lower route
created to make this section safe in snow and bad weather. This route
goes around the edge of the mountain just below the peak on a series of
ledges. The hairy bits are provided with chains to hang on to. I had
spectacularly good weather, so it was actually an easy walk - I was
cursing a bit when I got to the turn to the summit - if I had been
feeling better it was so close!</span></span> <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd4gELbhrZtOSkupyogW_GTdKZyvmxUTNIz-H7QcX_ASX6h_Nn3EtX8oit1fY2nBqcWtXlsqtrkM60XEU4PE7NwwUw_53o4ODz3zH7N1R5Puv9xnQtxR0KSt9a3oymYI68j81Mnsgyk4uL/s1600/IMG_4288.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd4gELbhrZtOSkupyogW_GTdKZyvmxUTNIz-H7QcX_ASX6h_Nn3EtX8oit1fY2nBqcWtXlsqtrkM60XEU4PE7NwwUw_53o4ODz3zH7N1R5Puv9xnQtxR0KSt9a3oymYI68j81Mnsgyk4uL/s640/IMG_4288.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back towards Góriz</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgayDLcgqFrZzBsayvbEu5vQfzsVqIhjRoWieGRgkeNTsBZT8Y43UeFnvMg5J3MFU2inwBK78g21aC5_6nnaz19C4s7GvUXvQxo8vQgcEuED4odvHUZcbklgr-EDSDayBguAxWRe5stMoQb/s1600/IMG_4292.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1179" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgayDLcgqFrZzBsayvbEu5vQfzsVqIhjRoWieGRgkeNTsBZT8Y43UeFnvMg5J3MFU2inwBK78g21aC5_6nnaz19C4s7GvUXvQxo8vQgcEuED4odvHUZcbklgr-EDSDayBguAxWRe5stMoQb/s640/IMG_4292.jpg" width="470" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Murrion de Arrablo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZXMzOjAW0OF8XfwZleJavG1TDXdG_E1uZdqOLvhN9ZMUxtUSVXrn8m3ST91bLGI5V_FkzeSwzu6xLtvmRROuhLxC9pSbw8V6tNNjBo2aAtA1ys0zbUT0OlJ0j6xBOZb9Zuu-IDkqvtZ1d/s1600/IMG_4293.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZXMzOjAW0OF8XfwZleJavG1TDXdG_E1uZdqOLvhN9ZMUxtUSVXrn8m3ST91bLGI5V_FkzeSwzu6xLtvmRROuhLxC9pSbw8V6tNNjBo2aAtA1ys0zbUT0OlJ0j6xBOZb9Zuu-IDkqvtZ1d/s640/IMG_4293.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gorgeous stream on slopes of Punta las Solas - someone was camping here</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0I3IJgNwi5Ks4UQFb4pyWMA_-F_BV8vgMB-wF2N7P7iFTMDRtZRtI-an2v0UqRO313V6J9G6SRASBzDRDNggOaRIWPbwYeQZuZSgPavJiGcrzzeS7dLu5H4J25pyz3KPO8_lOFtWrWF7E/s1600/IMG_4314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1254" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0I3IJgNwi5Ks4UQFb4pyWMA_-F_BV8vgMB-wF2N7P7iFTMDRtZRtI-an2v0UqRO313V6J9G6SRASBzDRDNggOaRIWPbwYeQZuZSgPavJiGcrzzeS7dLu5H4J25pyz3KPO8_lOFtWrWF7E/s640/IMG_4314.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taken by a French walker I met</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieGR_i2pK_6dmNSu-AagtBm5wZy3nZ7C2rL7_2HFl4aVOSZI9hitxDtd0KOriUGsnH8DB3lbt7Gvd60nZtjWyB_BMUsCAGgIMKAa3q1tefJAF_avoPAA4pio8rf8QMhpDfuvE1MYidAOrz/s1600/IMG_4318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1044" data-original-width="1600" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieGR_i2pK_6dmNSu-AagtBm5wZy3nZ7C2rL7_2HFl4aVOSZI9hitxDtd0KOriUGsnH8DB3lbt7Gvd60nZtjWyB_BMUsCAGgIMKAa3q1tefJAF_avoPAA4pio8rf8QMhpDfuvE1MYidAOrz/s640/IMG_4318.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not what urine is supposed to look like - the Emperor Heliogabalus would have enjoyed this photo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAUxcJSZQ20a3uKhUJ49pZTnqWz3r0xkenPvz3-eHynCTCKuBnFg_B40LIoyF148UHuqAF_4keDivbVdxMLcsKPFiru7w1UYUXurw_vTJAvh8040NSvKGZa75m1rRlCczx06ohjaQntArK/s1600/IMG_4325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAUxcJSZQ20a3uKhUJ49pZTnqWz3r0xkenPvz3-eHynCTCKuBnFg_B40LIoyF148UHuqAF_4keDivbVdxMLcsKPFiru7w1UYUXurw_vTJAvh8040NSvKGZa75m1rRlCczx06ohjaQntArK/s640/IMG_4325.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old GR11 runs along the big ledge and over the white rocks, where there are chains to hold on to</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRbRS82NOwMOATl9rE4g11_p9KTWQ8es6DgE_Z32nKOzSr5fEj4cT_GsF_cLzgxalJseGdQIbsvBvOTYB0Gjbs6xkpALLhunLXRM2Y3UAySiUvtRMxdE1NRo7OdvU4aTkY-jWLW_3LU6bR/s1600/IMG_4328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRbRS82NOwMOATl9rE4g11_p9KTWQ8es6DgE_Z32nKOzSr5fEj4cT_GsF_cLzgxalJseGdQIbsvBvOTYB0Gjbs6xkpALLhunLXRM2Y3UAySiUvtRMxdE1NRo7OdvU4aTkY-jWLW_3LU6bR/s640/IMG_4328.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rio Bellos valley, where the new GR11 track runs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">The old GR11 drops to 2450m to rejoin
the new path at Collata d'Añisclo, which then drops to a Refuge a mere
1240m at the very bottom of the stunningly beautiful Valle de Pineta.
The last part was steep - 1200 vertical meters down the slope you can see in the photos! I
stopped for an hour on a particularly beautiful pinnacle and made tea to
admire the view. This valley really is a stunner. Arriving at the
Refuge I was surprised to find both that camping is banned and that they
had vacancies. Nice dorms, a hot shower, and a fine
meal!</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1A7Z8puxiMUtm5qm1yN128SNKF11vOdAIp0PBf3PHVM1tnTPFH_4vUrio32p60pdnhM-pJEIMYxxj_5Yzr_YE9ve3JAz-MLL8qBRPnjm6vdfuY0sg3cSYP_iSM8hBlz7DxR8L6shOjaA/s1600/IMG_4337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1A7Z8puxiMUtm5qm1yN128SNKF11vOdAIp0PBf3PHVM1tnTPFH_4vUrio32p60pdnhM-pJEIMYxxj_5Yzr_YE9ve3JAz-MLL8qBRPnjm6vdfuY0sg3cSYP_iSM8hBlz7DxR8L6shOjaA/s640/IMG_4337.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Valle de Pineta</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1FuMeUPahUgbyevFsWc7J2r4kLSbWvx0mibEvb5Zdc1mtK9PTOHA2ixtilxCRZSlvqWnFG2YBJGHrPaHoBwucMGn1NVZtTamKtyR4h9dgN3THyGOPHj7rcrKiv7psZIscs4v-dMmFp17A/s1600/IMG_4351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1FuMeUPahUgbyevFsWc7J2r4kLSbWvx0mibEvb5Zdc1mtK9PTOHA2ixtilxCRZSlvqWnFG2YBJGHrPaHoBwucMGn1NVZtTamKtyR4h9dgN3THyGOPHj7rcrKiv7psZIscs4v-dMmFp17A/s1600/IMG_4351.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This tea break was one of the highlights of the trip</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0kan8ej5eXFN0Da2xFqZwLwxeA6r3B5ZKnordgJ-2qXiaQedq401qqZkA4xJjy9901Xl-gF7dqdsVaUDt1p3PdXkwKItiWy4DAZoscOVgqVuJNINkoBJ6Pw_eY_7XKclC-zRxLLRELfC/s1600/IMG_4353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0kan8ej5eXFN0Da2xFqZwLwxeA6r3B5ZKnordgJ-2qXiaQedq401qqZkA4xJjy9901Xl-gF7dqdsVaUDt1p3PdXkwKItiWy4DAZoscOVgqVuJNINkoBJ6Pw_eY_7XKclC-zRxLLRELfC/s640/IMG_4353.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refugio de Pineta - excellent and friendly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span><br />
<b><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrennean Trek Day 14</span></span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">I had a very pleasant evening at Refugio Pineta.
People are assigned to tables by the staff at each refuge, and table
mates always seem willing to talk in whatever shared languages are
available. There are many hiking stories to exchange. I explained the
idea of long service leave over dinner and the Spanish now all want to
work in Australia! Being supplied by road this refuge was even cheaper than usual -
33€ for a bed, breakfast and a four-course meal of salad, p<span class="text_exposed_show">asta,
sausage and chips (egg and chips for vegetarians, chips and chips for
the German vegan who was the only other foreigner), and yogurt for desert. In the
morning I was still peeing blood, so walked down the valley to the
nearest village. A lovely walk on tracks through the forest to the
picturesque village of Bielsa. People are amazingly helpful here and a
local woman who spoke English helped me call and get in the queue to see
the doctor who comes for a few hours most days from the nearest town.
he prescribed some mild antibiotics and suggested staying there for 48hrs to see if they
solve the problem. After a magnificent lunch in the village square I pitched my tent at a campsite just outside the
village. </span></span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4vY-Xh1AKcBPmHQi8FrfXq9QWziTGe_rvs9Mk-97Dgqlbzgvq3rHrbu4RQNLIjmorodViEnZeKCPT8BH_1KLaBPA-G-COAQjrK0K_MrgTNrt1iqTqydRJHgUievLtE93B94IvXTL1IE04/s1600/IMG_4366.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4vY-Xh1AKcBPmHQi8FrfXq9QWziTGe_rvs9Mk-97Dgqlbzgvq3rHrbu4RQNLIjmorodViEnZeKCPT8BH_1KLaBPA-G-COAQjrK0K_MrgTNrt1iqTqydRJHgUievLtE93B94IvXTL1IE04/s640/IMG_4366.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back up Vallee de Pineta</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrYkdtgXQ_KyDEJu3zCDUSXiL5sV89MA4Sr9_C9z4u9IogSQ-PUUW6lxZTEtMrADHbE2eQ8P-b8JOHMCYM2lRSl7e95MlVChyphenhyphenbQ6PVbMY3Xf-fkJqnNCbRodknwf_zasped5cTrAGYkBYl/s1600/IMG_4368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1289" data-original-width="1600" height="514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrYkdtgXQ_KyDEJu3zCDUSXiL5sV89MA4Sr9_C9z4u9IogSQ-PUUW6lxZTEtMrADHbE2eQ8P-b8JOHMCYM2lRSl7e95MlVChyphenhyphenbQ6PVbMY3Xf-fkJqnNCbRodknwf_zasped5cTrAGYkBYl/s640/IMG_4368.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bielsa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 15</span></span></span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Not much trekking today! Waiting for the
antibiotics to do their work and watching local celebrations of the
feast of the assumption of the Virgin. Much like an English village
fete, but with beer instead of tea!</span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTNlFlEuGGcGYd6_FAsTgFEIPTcuyYLVT4iOaZmbsWQUJHsKr7tnunY3vOHvkC_m93aDAkOiMxZMTgp-3c8TOAjJOa4Wkcz0H1H0dm7L66htdlyphV7pKuEfrTQN26g7ChG9vXE2oU6CI/s1600/IMG_4373.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1139" data-original-width="1600" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTNlFlEuGGcGYd6_FAsTgFEIPTcuyYLVT4iOaZmbsWQUJHsKr7tnunY3vOHvkC_m93aDAkOiMxZMTgp-3c8TOAjJOa4Wkcz0H1H0dm7L66htdlyphV7pKuEfrTQN26g7ChG9vXE2oU6CI/s640/IMG_4373.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Festivities in Bielsa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 16 </span></span></span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Back on the road. I walked from Bielsa up to Parzan
to rejoin the GR11. Parzan does not have the historic buildings of
Bielsa because it was razed in 1938 just before the fascist victory in
the Civil War. Republican troops fought a rearguard action in this
valley to give local smugglers time to get refugees over the mountains
to France. I am not sure if the village was destroyed in a battle or later
when the fascists were 'disrupting the people smugglers business model'. After a last espresso and 'Madalena'
in Parzan I trudged 1000m up a dirt road past a hydro power station and camped at 2100m in a pretty valley just below the </span></span></span><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Collada Urdiceto</span></span></span>.</span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh8H7jx9FByoUy386-2dPT5yy6pl7yHBarLPNjGxNwnSCWo1MevKoCIcIkNQRcWcOP1ypY37j-k7o4As3sLUhkzsBpYLGT-RivQcYTt3QoUegFiZ6QNbfe1_TwLlr199pJNBcvU7zeRIOy/s1600/IMG_4374.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="1600" height="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh8H7jx9FByoUy386-2dPT5yy6pl7yHBarLPNjGxNwnSCWo1MevKoCIcIkNQRcWcOP1ypY37j-k7o4As3sLUhkzsBpYLGT-RivQcYTt3QoUegFiZ6QNbfe1_TwLlr199pJNBcvU7zeRIOy/s640/IMG_4374.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS-aT1ZRubcvxqr4nI54IPDnM8y-FeKKvunveSYyXn1V2SB8arojlxviJ8AWakocm4SNQskdHJCvBkDfZzD_JN1i8uJoqagTnpTW3iXkLIf0RZiDz8PenF6fQThfKKX7dumgvOTuv4OW5v/s1600/IMG_4384.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS-aT1ZRubcvxqr4nI54IPDnM8y-FeKKvunveSYyXn1V2SB8arojlxviJ8AWakocm4SNQskdHJCvBkDfZzD_JN1i8uJoqagTnpTW3iXkLIf0RZiDz8PenF6fQThfKKX7dumgvOTuv4OW5v/s640/IMG_4384.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lovely campsite</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX_H5JB2BlIJM64PmnQhp4XlhOupjF4KW8AYGsGklfpQdTa57SRPSFG_VE4gbTjjvGaOCNFa2u993Mz580LQTrIc_gpjafRbw1GBauUZ9TLKMo7Jc1X2nC6ApuVEa4KTRs_uQT69doSy_3/s1600/IMG_4379.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX_H5JB2BlIJM64PmnQhp4XlhOupjF4KW8AYGsGklfpQdTa57SRPSFG_VE4gbTjjvGaOCNFa2u993Mz580LQTrIc_gpjafRbw1GBauUZ9TLKMo7Jc1X2nC6ApuVEa4KTRs_uQT69doSy_3/s640/IMG_4379.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">with ensuite bathroom</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<b><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 17</span></span></span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">A short day over the Collada Urdiceto (or Los
Caballos on another map) and down to Biados. I got in to camp very early -
2.30 - and after washing the day's clothes spent the whole afternoon
lying in the shade reading Stendhal, which was very pleasant.
Unfortunately I had started peeing blood again and was feeling
ridiculously weak the last couple of hours of the walk. Felt much better the day before, but clearly those antibiotics in Bielsa did not really deal
with the problem. So it seemed sensible to head off again and find a doctor. </span></span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC2mEiwoUpDZsOG_F1Bj1U1renuAGOjb_pqOWRrqGJ2qvm-5IG1h1gW5HXMrH9xHs4HIhVMOVPNQ5Qv6IJnJtxhEYJEGaP9qgDqA-p0xQTPbiI_snVHGhoQQRkpN9zJpyGSJK5Hc7Eg1xY/s1600/IMG_4388.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="854" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC2mEiwoUpDZsOG_F1Bj1U1renuAGOjb_pqOWRrqGJ2qvm-5IG1h1gW5HXMrH9xHs4HIhVMOVPNQ5Qv6IJnJtxhEYJEGaP9qgDqA-p0xQTPbiI_snVHGhoQQRkpN9zJpyGSJK5Hc7Eg1xY/s1600/IMG_4388.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pica de Posets from Biados - 3300m and the second highest peak in the Pyrenees</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Pyrenean Trek Day 18.</b><br />
To catch a bus from Biados I would have had to walk 12km and wait another night, so I paid the local 4WD tour guy 66 euros for a lift to La Fortunada, where there is an 'emergencia'. This turned out not to be a hospital emergency room, but the headquarters of the local rural health service, where I saw the same doctor again and was prescribed stronger antibiotics and advice to stay put for 72hrs and go to a real hospital if I was still bleeding. Then I shelled out another 22 euros for a taxi to Ainsa, where there was a pharmacy to fill my prescription. So I was just a tourist in High Aragon for
the next few days. The plus side is that I got to come down<span class="text_exposed_show">
the whole of the Valle de Chistau, which is an amazing series of
limestone gorges. At one point, we were one one of those uniquely
European mountain roads, part clinging to the cliff and part tunnels,
when the sky was full of Griffin Vultures (2.5m wingspan) and I realized
they were nesting on the other side of the gorge, at the same level, no
more than 200m away - sitting happily by their nests watching the
traffic. I learned later than there are Lammergeier nests there too - the largest European vulture.</span><br />
<br />
<b><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 19. </span></span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">I came to Ainsa for a pharmacy and a
campsite, but found a beautifully preserved medieval hilltown where
people gather at dusk on the battlements of the castle to watch sunset
behind the high Pyrenees. I joined the throng for dinner in the main
square at the usual, late hour here. Restaurants all around the square
and the excellent Spanish childcare system of having them run around in
little packs in the middle of the square until midnight while their
parents eat, talk and stroll with pushchairs.</span> </span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYe4l5j5Ru-1kQEGqixJ2aUG69oDcLJQAZ3-h-5vQOTQKDl0hn49Oeqj0xJt45z9nPf0Ryh7stON5a-XCCwIMEjxdu_J-PiVDILNxr8RmFEApB6bDzzwTHqdDUXkb0fMy-0nrEtusABTLL/s1600/IMG_4400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1161" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYe4l5j5Ru-1kQEGqixJ2aUG69oDcLJQAZ3-h-5vQOTQKDl0hn49Oeqj0xJt45z9nPf0Ryh7stON5a-XCCwIMEjxdu_J-PiVDILNxr8RmFEApB6bDzzwTHqdDUXkb0fMy-0nrEtusABTLL/s640/IMG_4400.jpg" width="464" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset on the mountains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwF8B7xFu3ZL29GyDOZMx2sFti_M4KcXh-q-sFFr9WgN91pZGtQwA-bxm3gF3ZznzqwfLSIfpPWV1sA1dFbEPiyLnGVSOFS0sDYWcOZ_vgqPJ_pq6JTRZkmknlbtkXcOjfTIDDplphARpm/s1600/IMG_4408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1600" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwF8B7xFu3ZL29GyDOZMx2sFti_M4KcXh-q-sFFr9WgN91pZGtQwA-bxm3gF3ZznzqwfLSIfpPWV1sA1dFbEPiyLnGVSOFS0sDYWcOZ_vgqPJ_pq6JTRZkmknlbtkXcOjfTIDDplphARpm/s640/IMG_4408.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ainsa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy4CcrIUpZ_Hf51aJGM5J5RvKCGEb4_bnMrHA2UyrgBPFQFDhifJDKj6FHJc7iwFv0Y0M6zrXbyU1fggSB0nPSXXKRpgOxUtQXq02TCsVwLPICWDyW4hYC2QxuVsvUQRPoHmtGxGTPegWZ/s1600/IMG_4409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1074" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy4CcrIUpZ_Hf51aJGM5J5RvKCGEb4_bnMrHA2UyrgBPFQFDhifJDKj6FHJc7iwFv0Y0M6zrXbyU1fggSB0nPSXXKRpgOxUtQXq02TCsVwLPICWDyW4hYC2QxuVsvUQRPoHmtGxGTPegWZ/s640/IMG_4409.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ainsa from my campsite in the morning</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean 'Trek' Day 20</span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show">A lazy Sunday in Ainsa with my only task being
to take my medicine! Reading and sleeping in the sun. Another nice
sunset from the battlements, after visiting the
eco-museum in the old town. They have a collection of sick and injured
raptors who for various reasons cannot be returned to the wild,
including a Bearded Vulture (Lammergeier, wingspan 250-270cm). Their
aviaries are in a roofless part of the castle and they very well-cared
for, but this bird was perched at one of the old stone windows looking
at the mountains with his red eye and I could not help thinking of the
Count of Monte Cristo in his cell. </span><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpS9jU4YcI6Nu5pbDiPN97YswfHZInqNc-_BiTL-kKSgYxyZWdEyxkjacSBuoY-Pj1QfOt_OljKBbskXKIKTAjBu1YInsoz99PUooQXHYneknesu0hy91M3PwDPZWnRCjnEhNBDWuWW0B0/s1600/IMG_4421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1600" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpS9jU4YcI6Nu5pbDiPN97YswfHZInqNc-_BiTL-kKSgYxyZWdEyxkjacSBuoY-Pj1QfOt_OljKBbskXKIKTAjBu1YInsoz99PUooQXHYneknesu0hy91M3PwDPZWnRCjnEhNBDWuWW0B0/s640/IMG_4421.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset on Monte Perdido, from Ainsa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 21</span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show">No symptoms, so I headed back to the mountains, to Banosque using
local buses. This was slow, but cost 12€ for 150km and was fun. I had two hours
in Barbastro waiting for a connection. It is very much a working town, but
with a nice historic centre and the a rather ramshackle cathedral whose
campanile had SIX storks nests at the top, one occupied by a stork. The
road to Banosque is spectacular - at one point they have basically put
the road up a slot canyon, with tunnels where there is no room for both
road and river.</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrKGrGt8PxmrpnLXlwIh7f3HPciwwHfTHRI2q6ZH4Z3mgKpmh8JgY2jNnCTKhJ-nf9I1M5Y6AWIzADC3i2nGeOqQrMJCJUNaDxikQmoI96_ZHDv21uxcK77H7TAtkOR3oII35daAIPjegj/s1600/IMG_4435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrKGrGt8PxmrpnLXlwIh7f3HPciwwHfTHRI2q6ZH4Z3mgKpmh8JgY2jNnCTKhJ-nf9I1M5Y6AWIzADC3i2nGeOqQrMJCJUNaDxikQmoI96_ZHDv21uxcK77H7TAtkOR3oII35daAIPjegj/s640/IMG_4435.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barbastro bus station</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoNuHo5n6dEQhHbMm3tDzhlgaSXiYZTgtH6sWR5VwHxnuiAt2PD1F5eqZuQRTHyc2XRYNabZ1sJv9QPLTsodQO_tnjwG91YP4IA1SnGvFfxyu3TKyDGbkF4zvxtUWgKSn_3h626tKyVCsz/s1600/IMG_4442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1150" data-original-width="1600" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoNuHo5n6dEQhHbMm3tDzhlgaSXiYZTgtH6sWR5VwHxnuiAt2PD1F5eqZuQRTHyc2XRYNabZ1sJv9QPLTsodQO_tnjwG91YP4IA1SnGvFfxyu3TKyDGbkF4zvxtUWgKSn_3h626tKyVCsz/s640/IMG_4442.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barbastro main square</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrennean Trek Day 22</span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show">To see if the antibiotics had really worked I climbed to the col that I need to cross to return
to France and down again. No bleeding, so I was walk
back across the mountains. A much nicer way to finish the trip than a
bus to Barcelona! Then I spent a second night in Benasque,
which is very much a tourist town. There is a pretty old village at its
heart, surrounded by a sort of ring road and concentric c<span class="text_exposed_show">ircles
of hotels and apartments, for the ski season, I guess. Fortunately
these are almost all decent pastiches of the old buildings, built in
stone and slate with wooden windows and balconies. There are about a
dozen outdoor stores with all the latest gear and fashions, and an
extraordinary number of restaurants. Everyone here is on holiday, in
contrast to the other Aragonese villages of recent days - no old men
sitting in the playa mayor all day looking sceptical! </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy0qS3e0-cSENUda8AZxmjufaj1p0CCvYLdxfPC-S3GkA5x3_cNQKVU6Pby_mkDZltjejhUxkprOMB5N3-1NXo9MfMlVIAHJK5Yrvz6njuw1mP7WOSctMwJFvvtXVZ4VMPAzi8G1E137Qz/s1600/IMG_4453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy0qS3e0-cSENUda8AZxmjufaj1p0CCvYLdxfPC-S3GkA5x3_cNQKVU6Pby_mkDZltjejhUxkprOMB5N3-1NXo9MfMlVIAHJK5Yrvz6njuw1mP7WOSctMwJFvvtXVZ4VMPAzi8G1E137Qz/s640/IMG_4453.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A house in benasque</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixjL4jyKyMFfe12NRYci2gA9MdyI4UEqSt9N6emjH0zuNRzGQQ0Ciek41oUDhBU5wiJBA4pjKZco6ldeNz1bAjPdoWte8EnYNqVhzt74NP7w9jZ9FFJ66N_nZ7ylHlMYxy5ltJWOMAIn4r/s1600/IMG_4458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1378" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixjL4jyKyMFfe12NRYci2gA9MdyI4UEqSt9N6emjH0zuNRzGQQ0Ciek41oUDhBU5wiJBA4pjKZco6ldeNz1bAjPdoWte8EnYNqVhzt74NP7w9jZ9FFJ66N_nZ7ylHlMYxy5ltJWOMAIn4r/s640/IMG_4458.jpg" width="550" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another house in Benasque</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4m4JcXfYhCi4dJBxUIiVhDn7653v_nXr1WyT6qyc6Uf5OrSVhV3NQO0Winw-45Hk44EFJv3h3pBFbhERciATAlQcVePPTEHfekSWphSKbxFr3mEOCNCSJawWc-IbUi0s_8LYEGHLJQiFL/s1600/IMG_4471.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4m4JcXfYhCi4dJBxUIiVhDn7653v_nXr1WyT6qyc6Uf5OrSVhV3NQO0Winw-45Hk44EFJv3h3pBFbhERciATAlQcVePPTEHfekSWphSKbxFr3mEOCNCSJawWc-IbUi0s_8LYEGHLJQiFL/s1600/IMG_4471.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Maladeta Massif, including Pico de Aneto (3404m the highest in the Pyrenees) and the Valle de Benasque</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ2eMByTxdwgZ2QfC3QK9BCUKRQeIxguTZcpRj_7DTpib_2dekN7U_5dIolnBx4a8_7UkxjJnCsdq4EZeSj8SPzdj-dQ1-h6zuZUParFeqAFhmEN22K0a35FpJcCP-m7tXP2QO_mLyBNjG/s1600/IMG_4482.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ2eMByTxdwgZ2QfC3QK9BCUKRQeIxguTZcpRj_7DTpib_2dekN7U_5dIolnBx4a8_7UkxjJnCsdq4EZeSj8SPzdj-dQ1-h6zuZUParFeqAFhmEN22K0a35FpJcCP-m7tXP2QO_mLyBNjG/s640/IMG_4482.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porte de Venasque, cut in the crest of the range as a customs post in the 1600s.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 23. </span></span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Back through Porte de Venasque with a side trip to
climb Pic de Sauvegarde (2738), a popular day walk from Benasque. There were several Griffon Vultures circling the peak. Then I camped by the Refuge de
Venasque. I would not bother with camping gear if I did
this trip again, as it is heavy and all you really need is a sheet sleeping bag, since the Refuges have mattresses and blankets, but since I was carrying all the gear , camping by the refuge was the best
option unless the weather is dreadful, as the sleeping quarters are
cramped and you can still get the meals and use facilities.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcCKCWo2cR1KzQDWKxmhtrBX4IytXZ06tm6pqmL-Hmx09Mf9stDxqJ-5RWGN8NbYfun9x_vvMet6O24D3lfQ2rLebRR79Rk07qSoOu08X3wd-5rgJd58U1buOY8DkWmb42NydauUBGjYse/s1600/IMG_4491.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="686" data-original-width="979" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcCKCWo2cR1KzQDWKxmhtrBX4IytXZ06tm6pqmL-Hmx09Mf9stDxqJ-5RWGN8NbYfun9x_vvMet6O24D3lfQ2rLebRR79Rk07qSoOu08X3wd-5rgJd58U1buOY8DkWmb42NydauUBGjYse/s640/IMG_4491.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Griffon Vulture - 2.5m wingspan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhazBn97mdI8Mh9wsyR7iWmvZt78pbQThkuwGFYjZ-DdHDm6aHZ7yjBFOvu9UP6YsnSxxvWg12uP0tE7d3WigEJLoMaDQuTzadQdDEk5Oq3PEunw0tOzu7KLbD_JfBH10h7jQXJJw4kQ4Oe/s1600/IMG_4521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="595" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhazBn97mdI8Mh9wsyR7iWmvZt78pbQThkuwGFYjZ-DdHDm6aHZ7yjBFOvu9UP6YsnSxxvWg12uP0tE7d3WigEJLoMaDQuTzadQdDEk5Oq3PEunw0tOzu7KLbD_JfBH10h7jQXJJw4kQ4Oe/s1600/IMG_4521.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View back to Spain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0VfrX-YlAAHmL0FvUpq5ifzgyB4o6rXs9ph0sxJRWxubctMTOJqMQmGAqoaZotpTDrpr183VizVqG4bOq8XoRdWJTikqNFHaBVS3r2ggWZqFB71-f5MWj2dmyCwgM5YZPkPmSLwArKqE9/s1600/IMG_4523.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="509" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0VfrX-YlAAHmL0FvUpq5ifzgyB4o6rXs9ph0sxJRWxubctMTOJqMQmGAqoaZotpTDrpr183VizVqG4bOq8XoRdWJTikqNFHaBVS3r2ggWZqFB71-f5MWj2dmyCwgM5YZPkPmSLwArKqE9/s1600/IMG_4523.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View into France</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixqW7UBcN_WxsXkYpp2swEXlCpCl140QDeKZv2avKji6nEZUqExC9HvdhdRq06LwVIVppbgsVFKcVSKxY1n9vHvmEL78bnYal-bf6VVUavPh9IPlhkoSKY0-DaS8LFIHXmtdNa006P_CtI/s1600/IMG_4536.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixqW7UBcN_WxsXkYpp2swEXlCpCl140QDeKZv2avKji6nEZUqExC9HvdhdRq06LwVIVppbgsVFKcVSKxY1n9vHvmEL78bnYal-bf6VVUavPh9IPlhkoSKY0-DaS8LFIHXmtdNa006P_CtI/s640/IMG_4536.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three weeks of beard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcVho_3t3_rAU33eAuJ9oOLvROc12uTde5g8Q1HS6VIE36FeDABUGuFzYN50EU9ZKOg_DlXfNMz0K2M7X60cOCHWsx1hw4QJSqDbAxOJWebCgd6Ke3bjxkYTb_E029exZ8pSA-SPf4xg6/s1600/IMG_4591.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcVho_3t3_rAU33eAuJ9oOLvROc12uTde5g8Q1HS6VIE36FeDABUGuFzYN50EU9ZKOg_DlXfNMz0K2M7X60cOCHWsx1hw4QJSqDbAxOJWebCgd6Ke3bjxkYTb_E029exZ8pSA-SPf4xg6/s1600/IMG_4591.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porte de Venasque</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhydMjoHqrb1B1f2WX05Ytll8yVhkEOpmVvdWu-o9n1OqHW6BHdyrm_xrUtxXr1gP-uPCAVzp7feJlLy_lzurL1U3cDFRE7QdwUhSMPyXVzr65fJSCePc125-_DfD0-3_Q5CylIGGuhDzj9/s1600/IMG_4594.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhydMjoHqrb1B1f2WX05Ytll8yVhkEOpmVvdWu-o9n1OqHW6BHdyrm_xrUtxXr1gP-uPCAVzp7feJlLy_lzurL1U3cDFRE7QdwUhSMPyXVzr65fJSCePc125-_DfD0-3_Q5CylIGGuhDzj9/s640/IMG_4594.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refuge de Venasque</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbICQsgKjFHCGjK80HJLIaj_GcPrSaTrOXhpImB-7ysbZBAKRhEVBBhJ4Yqoj6wLZRFEbza15DqqRUSQbxnSa6D4iiwWdZjmONAxfnvmu70J5AaByDO4GQPEc9kttYRowB6kwyY1_1GhdV/s1600/IMG_4645.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1220" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbICQsgKjFHCGjK80HJLIaj_GcPrSaTrOXhpImB-7ysbZBAKRhEVBBhJ4Yqoj6wLZRFEbza15DqqRUSQbxnSa6D4iiwWdZjmONAxfnvmu70J5AaByDO4GQPEc9kttYRowB6kwyY1_1GhdV/s640/IMG_4645.jpg" width="488" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCi9-e63geZT5m7GI63kMO_zueeMB_O64YJ71MwQSXng_U_Uq9oHzYDmAXSfKKjjDGkwXFsH0KVaM_CMEakjG2HWaJCby6VMBHtq0cvQPEDZ3kzWzavPRatvLwjhgE3yuswzvpJmsT_viQ/s1600/IMG_4598.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCi9-e63geZT5m7GI63kMO_zueeMB_O64YJ71MwQSXng_U_Uq9oHzYDmAXSfKKjjDGkwXFsH0KVaM_CMEakjG2HWaJCby6VMBHtq0cvQPEDZ3kzWzavPRatvLwjhgE3yuswzvpJmsT_viQ/s640/IMG_4598.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from my tent</td></tr>
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<b><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 24</span></span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Some thunderstorms came through last night, one
just before an excellent dinner at the Refuge, followed by a good
rainbow, and another just as I went to bed. Did not get a lot of sleep
as the wind battered the tent most of the night! This morning was bright
and clear but so windy that the tent was dry after breakfast. I spent the
day exploring the alpine lakes and minor peaks around the refuge,
including a windy walk along the crest that divides France and Spain.
Saw what will probably be my last marmots and Griffin Vultures and a
Black Redstart. But my best memory of today will be the lovely guardian of the
Refuge, who lives in room the size of a shoebox with his wife and two
toddlers, running frantically towards the lake with a four-year old
under one arm in pursuit of an escaped plastic bag</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihF5g-oaF59tbZGJaegXRHsrRaXd7Juxg6w_TxBihjSuxcCwHvY1t940O4o7VwEY1qw6bHP_JhTyR5Us-1YnJAYdNuB_sFiJCRJTAjTFfWhnO5GyEjX1q1xelIrFnRhgS9q_KVHMUDDhZq/s1600/IMG_4602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1098" data-original-width="1600" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihF5g-oaF59tbZGJaegXRHsrRaXd7Juxg6w_TxBihjSuxcCwHvY1t940O4o7VwEY1qw6bHP_JhTyR5Us-1YnJAYdNuB_sFiJCRJTAjTFfWhnO5GyEjX1q1xelIrFnRhgS9q_KVHMUDDhZq/s640/IMG_4602.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR7aapl-LM5yZ7DL4VYVfnJIw4D1HlV919B9b6yssxOnD0RvuERZP8oijPMd2DX4F2DHQWa2DQv5a3I-rXr9rqjrY9hfBdYYnuA9K1GMF0EtSz9EbKzVsVOB2fdVhkTub_T8WM4Cqw-jK8/s1600/IMG_4603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1231" data-original-width="1600" height="492" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR7aapl-LM5yZ7DL4VYVfnJIw4D1HlV919B9b6yssxOnD0RvuERZP8oijPMd2DX4F2DHQWa2DQv5a3I-rXr9rqjrY9hfBdYYnuA9K1GMF0EtSz9EbKzVsVOB2fdVhkTub_T8WM4Cqw-jK8/s640/IMG_4603.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz4uzCXpd3mOhOhkD5AcFZ43Hp_3ixgd0mjWWJPSMOq1CTZmgxb-Zi0ECTiJPjiknHqTOrL-VoxTt7RE7J3R8GZ1aFpO1NdcUbh_RWbc4jpiVYHIbmMuGeS8cYc-xDp6zWd5JpSsuK2GqK/s1600/IMG_4643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1199" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz4uzCXpd3mOhOhkD5AcFZ43Hp_3ixgd0mjWWJPSMOq1CTZmgxb-Zi0ECTiJPjiknHqTOrL-VoxTt7RE7J3R8GZ1aFpO1NdcUbh_RWbc4jpiVYHIbmMuGeS8cYc-xDp6zWd5JpSsuK2GqK/s640/IMG_4643.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boum (lake) de Venasque</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<b>Pyrenean Trek Day 25</b><br />
And so it ended. An 850m descent to Hospice de
France followed by a 12km road bash to the 19th
century spa town of Bagnères de Luchon. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgat-WtLlA8gOhL82S3iW6hPkhtKraWFeBYWctSH375WytVR30piujeQEGULndm4mEJm11c40vp70tyanHR3IchJ154g9uQpXPeyBh0NhIxmMrE3AdMm-iUZF63Y8bDRyd3kIowLOdtBRkg/s1600/IMG_4654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="888" data-original-width="1600" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgat-WtLlA8gOhL82S3iW6hPkhtKraWFeBYWctSH375WytVR30piujeQEGULndm4mEJm11c40vp70tyanHR3IchJ154g9uQpXPeyBh0NhIxmMrE3AdMm-iUZF63Y8bDRyd3kIowLOdtBRkg/s640/IMG_4654.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back to Porte de Venasque</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Naturally, the Mairie at Luchon put on fireworks for the end of my hike.
Some locals thought it was for the Fête des Fleurs, but I put them
straight.<br />
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<br />
<b>Highlights of this trip:</b><br />
* Climbing Pic du Midi d'Ossau<br />
* The evening at Refuge D'Arremoulit - alpine lake, bare rock, drifting fog and intense sunshine <span class="text_exposed_show"><br /> * Last rays of the sun on the Brêche de Roland </span><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show">* The views on the old GR11 route around Punta las Solas and from Collada d'Añiscolo</span><br />
<br />
<div class="text_exposed_show">
<b>Lessons learnt:</b><br />
* I am older than I used to be :-(<span class="_5mfr _47e3"></span><br />
* I am not going to turn into one of those solitary long-distance
walkers. This was a great experience, but I definitely prefer walking
with a group of friends, so many thanks to Hugh for coming part of the way with me.<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"> </span> </span>Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-69879517225791018072017-09-06T00:04:00.002+10:002017-09-06T00:59:14.030+10:00Pyrenean Trek Part 1: BéarnHaving some additional vacation this year, a perk in my contract after
ten years in the job, I was able to add four weeks trekking in the
Pyrenees onto a work trip to Europe. This is the longest period off work I
have had since the gap between handing in my PhD and taking up my first
job back in 1988.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_yT9pl7VEqPFniDaypT6793dYXsMqd7qNfE18co83TY2BdfqlIs9n4xnjk0kFiW3hzWLudLY50GIeswa5w3L00lSsSc5LhnAPrlLPVxLpD60ZMcAQJXCLZC0xC3O79uGU836tyQzdU1NE/s1600/IMG_4233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="613" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_yT9pl7VEqPFniDaypT6793dYXsMqd7qNfE18co83TY2BdfqlIs9n4xnjk0kFiW3hzWLudLY50GIeswa5w3L00lSsSc5LhnAPrlLPVxLpD60ZMcAQJXCLZC0xC3O79uGU836tyQzdU1NE/s1600/IMG_4233.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camping just below the Brêche de Roland</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I met an old friend from my student days, Hugh, in London and we flew to Biarritz before heading up into the mountains to begin our walk at Lescun, a mountain village in Béarn, the region of France immediately east of the Basque country. There are three long distance tracks along the Pyrenees, the GR10 on the French side, the GR11 on the Spanish side, and the Pyrennean High Route (HRP), which stays as close to the top of the mountains as possible. At least for the first ten days we planned to follow the HRP. We had made bookings in mountain refuges for those ten days using the day-sections suggested in the Cicerone HRP guidebook. This turned out to be overambitious.<br />
<div class="_5pbx userContent" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="js_1ui">
<br />
<b>Pyrenean Trek Day 1. </b><br />
This was a grind up to the level of the High Route
- total ascent 1300m - and we took it slowly with lots of rests. Hugh proved much fitter than me, as he had the good sense to train in the gym with a full pack for the past few weeks, while I had done very little while working in Vienna for a fortnight, followed by a week's beach holiday to say goodbye to Karola and then a crazy week sent almost entirely online getting things at work into a state where I could go away for a month. We had about 32kg to carry between the two of us, as we were carrying some minimal climbing gear as well as our trekking gear, I was really not fit enough, and after a bit Hugh kindly offered to move the rope (3kg) to his pack to give me some chance to keep up.<br />
<br />
When we reached the top we had a great afternoon walking along the ridge separating France and
Spain. There were extraordinary views all the way, including Pic d'Anie which
Karola and I climbed in 2013 and Pic du Midi d'Ossau which we would try
to climb on Friday. We halted at the idyllic Refuge D'Arlet by an alpine lake - 1986m.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKtMkGEIN1H4b-6JIX8tYqgahUmM1-AncC2ZPaLgrc-ks6nSSv9Jtw4hVzHGgUUpOaC5bPYnOCx66ixFh312dGsfwqtgHGyQSDPX2g5qkItYAXUhYtK-K8hptSx_CdiHJPrVj-sJEJrSWF/s1600/IMG_3990.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1565" data-original-width="1600" height="626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKtMkGEIN1H4b-6JIX8tYqgahUmM1-AncC2ZPaLgrc-ks6nSSv9Jtw4hVzHGgUUpOaC5bPYnOCx66ixFh312dGsfwqtgHGyQSDPX2g5qkItYAXUhYtK-K8hptSx_CdiHJPrVj-sJEJrSWF/s640/IMG_3990.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving the hostel in Lescun</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiYEt72EAlVvk6Y16sqqs1owlyrea3sXAjHbtoMbRwn4b204qKNm4559WlWNnEqzgpg2Talj-8ewWtB7I-z7cHRUNxhQNAfKX8j47P3odEKPA0l71xUuaVfRbvp6DPNnfj5hZFU_GUEwP/s1600/IMG_4013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1074" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiYEt72EAlVvk6Y16sqqs1owlyrea3sXAjHbtoMbRwn4b204qKNm4559WlWNnEqzgpg2Talj-8ewWtB7I-z7cHRUNxhQNAfKX8j47P3odEKPA0l71xUuaVfRbvp6DPNnfj5hZFU_GUEwP/s640/IMG_4013.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the Spanish border</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_f3v6eCK0L4o_jMUWAkyobQ8KjhWw85LFwrQAvgcKW3zu6rYKp8YNfRI6iJ7lJzdGZpSHdsK2Ilus4Z16P3ck5gohj4DMz-Yuo981wtg61FtxKfmNsB4i68j5OhbDhDkvXpQY6C2wL0KM/s1600/IMG_4016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_f3v6eCK0L4o_jMUWAkyobQ8KjhWw85LFwrQAvgcKW3zu6rYKp8YNfRI6iJ7lJzdGZpSHdsK2Ilus4Z16P3ck5gohj4DMz-Yuo981wtg61FtxKfmNsB4i68j5OhbDhDkvXpQY6C2wL0KM/s640/IMG_4016.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our first view of the distinctive split peak of Pic du Midi d'Ossau</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-bkBsBTu2D-l7c4BanXABXlQqhJI3qPHiCtxziFbtnA8fexN33ZScx7fbLJoRQ8G5eJMVsHUug4RPjPzJ_6A4RgznVa9Qy7FSBk2ptp3pTtCBukONQHVxq8tT9csYMhU3HweVP4e1AmNV/s1600/IMG_4028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1293" data-original-width="1600" height="516" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-bkBsBTu2D-l7c4BanXABXlQqhJI3qPHiCtxziFbtnA8fexN33ZScx7fbLJoRQ8G5eJMVsHUug4RPjPzJ_6A4RgznVa9Qy7FSBk2ptp3pTtCBukONQHVxq8tT9csYMhU3HweVP4e1AmNV/s640/IMG_4028.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Refuge D'Arlet</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ABg3VHyTiWTwYMOMFcOZpG7xQ7vIKVXvkpnzkliSgNnRykQECNhj2vkx9Udbky57Xz25deMD8hRkHzSKU0bu1K36kZfiG_ScwpOhGs1Due9cEF2vksB4voUo0Vt5svdOjAow78TivxkA/s1600/IMG_4031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="795" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ABg3VHyTiWTwYMOMFcOZpG7xQ7vIKVXvkpnzkliSgNnRykQECNhj2vkx9Udbky57Xz25deMD8hRkHzSKU0bu1K36kZfiG_ScwpOhGs1Due9cEF2vksB4voUo0Vt5svdOjAow78TivxkA/s1600/IMG_4031.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hugh with lake and Refuge D'Arlet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<b>Pyrenean Trek Day 2. </b><br />
Today we had to go down 1000m down and 500m up crossing the Val d'Aspe. It was
hot down in the valley - about 30C - and we envied the donkey trekkers who walked past us with no packs! We stopped at an
Albergo in the ski resort of Candanchu on the Spanish side.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWQPGpgefVUxsiUWH0-IdRlunfR9fMLNtcPma5DHw97By8v8emqPznjisQZ8mae2G1Ar4mqu4fhEbGqUNCyTNZAvFfAZC0Am8PattArEmF-9fBTGR6TtgApV-eq_uM7v-gzK-XQ_24JlUL/s1600/IMG_4035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWQPGpgefVUxsiUWH0-IdRlunfR9fMLNtcPma5DHw97By8v8emqPznjisQZ8mae2G1Ar4mqu4fhEbGqUNCyTNZAvFfAZC0Am8PattArEmF-9fBTGR6TtgApV-eq_uM7v-gzK-XQ_24JlUL/s640/IMG_4035.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking a break</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYFRjoS4BBMzanCjBZ87LVCRNFep5kA6VNLElXhUO4HkrsJevLhUWo4-sr7ZNdSsTabkhC11FO_UiaLvkgHUICpa0kRL77-kpCIwjLE-9q3zi_94prqqHyynvmeYRBAiK5LJkQ4x3hyphenhyphen1K/s1600/IMG_4038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1254" data-original-width="1600" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYFRjoS4BBMzanCjBZ87LVCRNFep5kA6VNLElXhUO4HkrsJevLhUWo4-sr7ZNdSsTabkhC11FO_UiaLvkgHUICpa0kRL77-kpCIwjLE-9q3zi_94prqqHyynvmeYRBAiK5LJkQ4x3hyphenhyphen1K/s640/IMG_4038.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Why do <i>I </i>always<i> </i>have to carry the pack"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Pyrenean Trek Day 3. </b><br />
Realism set in last night as I was finding it tough
walking down stairs in the Albergo! I was
counting on getting fit as we walked, but the sections suggested in our
guide were just too long for that. Day 4 was scheduled to climb the Pic du Midi d'Ossau, one
of the highlights of the trip, and the Day 3 we had planned <span class="text_exposed_show">was harder than either of the last two days.We had bookings in refuges for the
next week and they are busy this time of year, so stopping at an earlier refuge, even if they had a slot, would throw the whole plan into disarray.
So we cheated and got a lift to Col du Portalet, from where it is only 400m up to the refuge, so effectively a rest day. By early afternoon we were settled into the delightful Refuge de Pombie at the foot of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau, with views across the Vallee d'Ossau to
Mt Pallas, where we will head
on Day 5.</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6VZgMoCm1M7CoCG6hIabXBj9gWqgp_i3Ughajh2OpZFVNVLi2958gw2kGcpGBSua1GcLy1pv2uPTvxrl977sbIwXg0lTdyKnBG7l2gt7Und6qZ1Pr28u6ja5ugo1xUHu2fwlKQuaL6dX/s1600/IMG_4045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="580" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6VZgMoCm1M7CoCG6hIabXBj9gWqgp_i3Ughajh2OpZFVNVLi2958gw2kGcpGBSua1GcLy1pv2uPTvxrl977sbIwXg0lTdyKnBG7l2gt7Und6qZ1Pr28u6ja5ugo1xUHu2fwlKQuaL6dX/s1600/IMG_4045.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Col du Portalet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="text_exposed_show"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEjdJQKbwDOi9WSVJxl2l1fjJmUA1shyZGKruAJqpp9QQwLTPg-GaVdTUu1Qvh_CQVG4Kt06mzmJxh4cYj8FHmTkW16q1BC84oY8t7Zb4nZgx9DogqUHpeyV9umcLoiaLNixtpy9yEeVzQ/s1600/IMG_4065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEjdJQKbwDOi9WSVJxl2l1fjJmUA1shyZGKruAJqpp9QQwLTPg-GaVdTUu1Qvh_CQVG4Kt06mzmJxh4cYj8FHmTkW16q1BC84oY8t7Zb4nZgx9DogqUHpeyV9umcLoiaLNixtpy9yEeVzQ/s640/IMG_4065.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pic du Midi d'Ossau and Refuge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_UZUrB_IARavK7Fim4JNGNJGg9cyOfgrywG5qCj4QKOMFI2Od1MC6i3XN1-I055k6GlBlt99_i9k2gWqpODr-gBN4CCC2jjqMMAgeW2m1sJI0VfX1mdQNQedmXJ-fqanr72oko8EbKUZH/s1600/IMG_4054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_UZUrB_IARavK7Fim4JNGNJGg9cyOfgrywG5qCj4QKOMFI2Od1MC6i3XN1-I055k6GlBlt99_i9k2gWqpODr-gBN4CCC2jjqMMAgeW2m1sJI0VfX1mdQNQedmXJ-fqanr72oko8EbKUZH/s640/IMG_4054.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pic from the Refuge (actual summit is the rear peak and 800m above the lake)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="text_exposed_show"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzY4GPNpVYIo7rk8CLcyKhwL0rxc3vhsMWA3m25uUDqnq-Ffba2uypLvBbb4GTDICMYB6DB7hkI3LvhKKANPU3HZIAF3GVK2vGz8dDf0_UltOpGvMIxx9DtnodXNBX6oqAIp9RbOipf3eI/s1600/IMG_4061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1025" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzY4GPNpVYIo7rk8CLcyKhwL0rxc3vhsMWA3m25uUDqnq-Ffba2uypLvBbb4GTDICMYB6DB7hkI3LvhKKANPU3HZIAF3GVK2vGz8dDf0_UltOpGvMIxx9DtnodXNBX6oqAIp9RbOipf3eI/s1600/IMG_4061.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View across Valle d'Ossau to Pallas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show">The mountain refuges have simple but excellent food - soup, a hearty main course, cheese, and a tiny desert, with wine as an extra, but the sleeping
arrangements can be pretty tight. Rather than bunks, the traditional mountain refuges have big shelves on two or three levels and you get about 80cm of shelf each. They get very full in July and August, and at the refuges that have an 'aire de bivouac' people also put up tents outside - Pombie
served dinner for 60 the first night we were there.</span><br />
<br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtj6HbUA6ra58r8Xy8Z1wGBjAqfxn2_ZXUxwSxbzajNk-7v1E_8A5MbFUDbMjSlLOO_zL3EDRDaCZ49mgKYkvPix_9wAx6jHwcAdk5fUwE27s8H4pQnmIYqswQwtlPl-Vfu2qDdloWaG8d/s1600/IMG_4134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1541" data-original-width="1600" height="616" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtj6HbUA6ra58r8Xy8Z1wGBjAqfxn2_ZXUxwSxbzajNk-7v1E_8A5MbFUDbMjSlLOO_zL3EDRDaCZ49mgKYkvPix_9wAx6jHwcAdk5fUwE27s8H4pQnmIYqswQwtlPl-Vfu2qDdloWaG8d/s640/IMG_4134.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our dorm</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCelMcKfem88ZQdiwDa2q2tV8hXqjmCym608BKwYa-x39sty5j-XwN6NXzz0W5cjg7lXpi6lP4TTLD7LRCO-o8FAuZA2UTnWKrmvZfwQ84rnQO-YkSZtLT2DW7n2VJqBZ3AzpD2SYcdyyu/s1600/IMG_4135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1079" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCelMcKfem88ZQdiwDa2q2tV8hXqjmCym608BKwYa-x39sty5j-XwN6NXzz0W5cjg7lXpi6lP4TTLD7LRCO-o8FAuZA2UTnWKrmvZfwQ84rnQO-YkSZtLT2DW7n2VJqBZ3AzpD2SYcdyyu/s640/IMG_4135.jpg" width="430" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">18 person bunk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ7vVTPjkQD9KVxjWHp7gHOy_w0ZKkFnoHEZI1i46CWdefpl8tSnM0NdJAyZkTpc3zMorRHhwBfqiUYAbA56EIrPtt8QjaokPir7Lv4EZ2QsvlqWmN8sZUu9EzMceD5-wctgIyBylioXSt/s1600/IMG_4137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ7vVTPjkQD9KVxjWHp7gHOy_w0ZKkFnoHEZI1i46CWdefpl8tSnM0NdJAyZkTpc3zMorRHhwBfqiUYAbA56EIrPtt8QjaokPir7Lv4EZ2QsvlqWmN8sZUu9EzMceD5-wctgIyBylioXSt/s640/IMG_4137.jpg" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hugh reading Leviticus. It is a good thing Icebreaker shirts are <i>pure</i> Merino as apparently mixing wool with other fibres is an 'abomination'??!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 4. </span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show">We climbed Pic du Midi d'Ossau (not to be confused with the Pic du Midi, which has a road to the top!) on a perfect summer day. The mountain is only 2880m,
while many of the surrounding limestone peaks are over 3000m, but it
dominates the Atlantic end of the Pyrenees because it is a tall,
isolated granite plug - a former volcano - that you can see from far
away. There is also no walk-up route. There are many serious climbs,
and an easy 'voie normale', which has the lowest rating in the
French climbing grade system - PD (peu difficile). We did that, naturall<span class="text_exposed_show">y.
The peak is 800m above the refuge where we had bunks and a meal last
night. The first 300 is walking, then there are three climbs and finally a steep glacis of boulders and scree up to the summit. The
climbs are all straightforward, but it is steep all the
way and hard on the knees on the way down. We met friendly Spanish and French local
climbers and shared ropes for two of the abseils coming down. The walk back in the mid afternoon was baking hot and as soon as we arrived back at
the refuge I went for a swim in the lake while Hugh had a cold shower.</span></span><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2fSUcfdtoqgezG-8l-czJNLqddnkg5NbF_sqXaGWaZs2OiW7xFLtG-SeV_7qEmHQU1rdN_76VC16-1s4I3ABT09CzGS_byb1FPDYVGZbydPmoL4usibpp2K8dxr25drBOi5pKDMtVhsTv/s1600/IMG_4102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1161" data-original-width="1600" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2fSUcfdtoqgezG-8l-czJNLqddnkg5NbF_sqXaGWaZs2OiW7xFLtG-SeV_7qEmHQU1rdN_76VC16-1s4I3ABT09CzGS_byb1FPDYVGZbydPmoL4usibpp2K8dxr25drBOi5pKDMtVhsTv/s640/IMG_4102.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refuge at dawn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4jr6fZqlOkf50FjeWZLvPy5Z9HwrslGLug9cJlB7L2gmCsPltCAc63nEji1UziGSr7nv8Tin9kl8U-7zLBw9hNbAFFFCVES64YtyAF2AuZ7KEWWjs2Fac2ZiRJeCSIzKesfytThj2AUJM/s1600/IMG_4104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1283" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4jr6fZqlOkf50FjeWZLvPy5Z9HwrslGLug9cJlB7L2gmCsPltCAc63nEji1UziGSr7nv8Tin9kl8U-7zLBw9hNbAFFFCVES64YtyAF2AuZ7KEWWjs2Fac2ZiRJeCSIzKesfytThj2AUJM/s640/IMG_4104.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hugh climbing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5koq-Q1rVpL3Lr_61gE-Cin7WLJhFcAT6Nqtl_Nrw-HV1wDG0auiHbgsiwRzGoPaTfOD8PhzFxecTQaZOpNCRk8H45J8VqV9lNmzeE_6KwEWMUIz9TxuAUBS-foLPXoERkBqEDSAzMwCA/s1600/IMG_4106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5koq-Q1rVpL3Lr_61gE-Cin7WLJhFcAT6Nqtl_Nrw-HV1wDG0auiHbgsiwRzGoPaTfOD8PhzFxecTQaZOpNCRk8H45J8VqV9lNmzeE_6KwEWMUIz9TxuAUBS-foLPXoERkBqEDSAzMwCA/s640/IMG_4106.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Halfway </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy0Hp0eEWq5WdQHs-ENOhrwqBMisH8poXK7U2n4EpeMXBZPaz18eUZiA6Lpcc-WITcIQqSENszFwvnmV6_-pt3ucVeKgjf59A7Zbqs1otOj7VhESCqo6IC71Br1PxjVuGY5EmjmlnjU0nr/s1600/IMG_4107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1404" data-original-width="1600" height="560" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy0Hp0eEWq5WdQHs-ENOhrwqBMisH8poXK7U2n4EpeMXBZPaz18eUZiA6Lpcc-WITcIQqSENszFwvnmV6_-pt3ucVeKgjf59A7Zbqs1otOj7VhESCqo6IC71Br1PxjVuGY5EmjmlnjU0nr/s640/IMG_4107.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The famous Croix de Fer at the top of the third chimney</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKP7787wwQdrT_XMWT6GzpH8I3iB0KPvhhlKUjMFNm3DV3ZPsOgkx5aTOzhwgjXX1z-fnGYsGKBz9DrCpd4gGUBv-j12etL_mobmaJcj2AV8jWuBifWiOWZIqdS_qgYDLjyTJkJL155zv/s1600/IMG_4108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKP7787wwQdrT_XMWT6GzpH8I3iB0KPvhhlKUjMFNm3DV3ZPsOgkx5aTOzhwgjXX1z-fnGYsGKBz9DrCpd4gGUBv-j12etL_mobmaJcj2AV8jWuBifWiOWZIqdS_qgYDLjyTJkJL155zv/s640/IMG_4108.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glacis</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1wJ65JaOoRYq7BtjkUZF7OFcSxMD6vdnxHxVO4aSoR0tt7DYgaxNwYmGdBTeTzlyAbZLIGIiPQW6BgC2OLqBxYs_nGjAwwMX-Jo_UQitHZyfELo361lv-xpo_uzfieZdAc2A4gI0IbrLA/s1600/IMG_4109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1wJ65JaOoRYq7BtjkUZF7OFcSxMD6vdnxHxVO4aSoR0tt7DYgaxNwYmGdBTeTzlyAbZLIGIiPQW6BgC2OLqBxYs_nGjAwwMX-Jo_UQitHZyfELo361lv-xpo_uzfieZdAc2A4gI0IbrLA/s640/IMG_4109.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The summit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjITBVKLdbpN5nE5iPnKjUXny0Z5Vg-OHMtsxcIQftedQ9OtlT5LCd98L-8zqp8qimfV5KBDvaxKQ-9vrm1S3ZhITUbqkvqW5gLztjbfgkjx8zxwVY0kpwet5A8CV4P7GQe321NVjNhuNyE/s1600/IMG_4112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjITBVKLdbpN5nE5iPnKjUXny0Z5Vg-OHMtsxcIQftedQ9OtlT5LCd98L-8zqp8qimfV5KBDvaxKQ-9vrm1S3ZhITUbqkvqW5gLztjbfgkjx8zxwVY0kpwet5A8CV4P7GQe321NVjNhuNyE/s640/IMG_4112.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On top</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi23tzpOgeIipkhcCTykLd3smowuirTKYvs0AQNSwRn6dAFtHg_IyrOvrpT1QCIobwvdhI7BWtbtgqyMS2JYAwzy7mVolbEGklQQQv7l7U6vu_KQK9t0bb5DLw3xQe9u_V5aZp7MAU_MnE4/s1600/IMG_4115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="542" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi23tzpOgeIipkhcCTykLd3smowuirTKYvs0AQNSwRn6dAFtHg_IyrOvrpT1QCIobwvdhI7BWtbtgqyMS2JYAwzy7mVolbEGklQQQv7l7U6vu_KQK9t0bb5DLw3xQe9u_V5aZp7MAU_MnE4/s1600/IMG_4115.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View mainly into Spain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><br /></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4HnYzWLMIX70_2BLSAPQPKTHAo8D4rlqNBlgVlnXDgsmEiyczs5LrryttSlkPfFHh5gdLeJmXmS6F3xToQscEfqPbi3nCJZXFO_at7P78Z0ahlg2GURzwAKoSKMLdY58gtRf6u55i7E2/s1600/IMG_4122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4HnYzWLMIX70_2BLSAPQPKTHAo8D4rlqNBlgVlnXDgsmEiyczs5LrryttSlkPfFHh5gdLeJmXmS6F3xToQscEfqPbi3nCJZXFO_at7P78Z0ahlg2GURzwAKoSKMLdY58gtRf6u55i7E2/s1600/IMG_4122.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View to France</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjItsMemvsGwWCz1SMF_O4NVgSxbzEtIn-FPdDtDF5KYH_ogDelC_nRKca6y41rRb-j7SqmxhX9I1aggspMc5-mllzjTEnTiA2iVnvhJmOCnypgvvHO9BshpJNg6xLLcHkjGMMi9u9NLU8H/s1600/IMG_4125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjItsMemvsGwWCz1SMF_O4NVgSxbzEtIn-FPdDtDF5KYH_ogDelC_nRKca6y41rRb-j7SqmxhX9I1aggspMc5-mllzjTEnTiA2iVnvhJmOCnypgvvHO9BshpJNg6xLLcHkjGMMi9u9NLU8H/s640/IMG_4125.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hugh heading down</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH74jX3pGGyiTj2YLqW0OvCeEJdxy0lGYy5mf3_U2dXv3pBVidfRTrjBPHnWIVQTAJGUcigo61jI669xURXh7QPS6TPGJiWtQ0fiNu9-wBgPoJvQkkE6n0hMvoHj5Df3oqPfcd19JRI9nh/s1600/IMG_4128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH74jX3pGGyiTj2YLqW0OvCeEJdxy0lGYy5mf3_U2dXv3pBVidfRTrjBPHnWIVQTAJGUcigo61jI669xURXh7QPS6TPGJiWtQ0fiNu9-wBgPoJvQkkE6n0hMvoHj5Df3oqPfcd19JRI9nh/s640/IMG_4128.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hugh coming down</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrennean Trek Day 5. </span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show">We were
sorry to leave </span><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Refuge de Pombie </span>after a nice evening chatting with the guardian and his
assistants over a (free) whisky. We paid 233 euros for two nights - beds,
dinner, breakfast, packed lunch, 1/2 liter if wine each night and a
couple of drinks. Excellent food! We dropped 700m to the bottom of the
Vallee d'Ossau and climbed 1000m up the other side to our next refuge.
As we climbed we got better and better views back to the Pic du<span class="text_exposed_show">
Midi d'Ossau. Sometimes we were in full sun,
sometimes in thick fog. We stopped for lunch and a cup of tea just below
the Col d'Arrious, and then headed off to find the Passage d'Orteig, a
narrow path along a rockface with steel cables fitted for
safety. Just before we reached it the fog cleared for an instant to give
us a view if the Lac d'Arrious. We passed the Passage in thick fog, but
the fog was warm, as if the sun was just a few meters above, trying to
break through, and there was no dew, so the rock was dry. Then we
followed cairns through the fog along a bare limestone ridge until we
heard voices and finally the Refuge d'Arremoulit and its lake appeared
out of the fog a few meters in front of us. This is an old, traditional refuge, and quite small with fairly primitive facilities. Like many others, it has an 'extension' consisting of a big expedition tent to accommodate more people. But the dining area is tiny, so it was fortunate, that the fog<span class="text_exposed_show"> cleared and we could have dinner outside the refuge
in bright sunshine - extraordinary views. We met the first English
speakers since we started, who we had a nice evening with,
fortunately, since we were sleeping on the same shelf. This evening, sitting by the lake, surrounded by the high peaks with alternating bright sunshine and drifting fog was one of the highlights of the trip for me.</span></span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI6ZQ2cMaIsOKYBmfmfR2jUQUJaqa9MVoBqrOQ5QQrZz8oTQIwl4qB1Bnf5VjnEmm4c_4bLn-h2-4uJGGXsn9soZBkvtTqIQT-Jv4_Iheo5aTuICPU-zNH2zF-AtI146hWuA6n_t9VVbk_/s1600/IMG_4148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1192" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI6ZQ2cMaIsOKYBmfmfR2jUQUJaqa9MVoBqrOQ5QQrZz8oTQIwl4qB1Bnf5VjnEmm4c_4bLn-h2-4uJGGXsn9soZBkvtTqIQT-Jv4_Iheo5aTuICPU-zNH2zF-AtI146hWuA6n_t9VVbk_/s640/IMG_4148.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hugh looking back to Pic du Midi d'Ossau</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbAvD8Yo7Yng8dVIFX1PTAJauIYemTKK4W0VjNEvS0KczwOcHvkHMVO33JR3qdqC3SlnkmxFK_P45z2xFpu8b62A1cFi5GAk6z_pyeiOrcvsPkfLCRVuY_A9llograGr2WGE_OEDo2BPR0/s1600/IMG_4151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbAvD8Yo7Yng8dVIFX1PTAJauIYemTKK4W0VjNEvS0KczwOcHvkHMVO33JR3qdqC3SlnkmxFK_P45z2xFpu8b62A1cFi5GAk6z_pyeiOrcvsPkfLCRVuY_A9llograGr2WGE_OEDo2BPR0/s640/IMG_4151.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lac D'Arrious</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaftLKbXOomUSU8-YH-o96zqFE99jSs6-ws7A6BCUxR31L93BouR0XCVNJunHOY3XvBO20SNyYhDCx0DDhI-YKgg6jHbbrJsO6J0YUfAyndbohDijgIlMKniBzuti9X-OnVKzmnpAgyS2u/s1600/IMG_4156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaftLKbXOomUSU8-YH-o96zqFE99jSs6-ws7A6BCUxR31L93BouR0XCVNJunHOY3XvBO20SNyYhDCx0DDhI-YKgg6jHbbrJsO6J0YUfAyndbohDijgIlMKniBzuti9X-OnVKzmnpAgyS2u/s640/IMG_4156.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passage d'Orteig</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy_c5el1OxCQmc50mQaJ_hGJ17vZxRCflYIxg6S5vMZ9Q8_HHv59DL7V7YwVNDeVSTUJRTC6uPlxrOTEEk6fZtuyPCx6M7kHvAWnVE9zu8kMES20dswBmCwPhhWb8bOVyabMFomIgS7qPb/s1600/IMG_4159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy_c5el1OxCQmc50mQaJ_hGJ17vZxRCflYIxg6S5vMZ9Q8_HHv59DL7V7YwVNDeVSTUJRTC6uPlxrOTEEk6fZtuyPCx6M7kHvAWnVE9zu8kMES20dswBmCwPhhWb8bOVyabMFomIgS7qPb/s640/IMG_4159.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH5rYmVFIllQuh7H2i5bPHQ5NWVMSr83Y3FicVMaQVrIbBOMg12FKKSJ0F-ygRzmbmesRyJ3uE7eE1s4KnteUPaQKxsHbTi3KRpFUm4mIMiAIFWj4TI9ssN4L18WRD9SuGhUYR65kU8R10/s1600/IMG_4160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH5rYmVFIllQuh7H2i5bPHQ5NWVMSr83Y3FicVMaQVrIbBOMg12FKKSJ0F-ygRzmbmesRyJ3uE7eE1s4KnteUPaQKxsHbTi3KRpFUm4mIMiAIFWj4TI9ssN4L18WRD9SuGhUYR65kU8R10/s640/IMG_4160.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bathroom at the refuge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0N9TQ40MbcT-WRL9E1ZAQ41qYJWjS4j77eTscLldU4nnH9ZasXE8Zgyy9SiQchrv2-327hxepUBpRhNu8Q2s7L3C-ivlXEmjDbouOHVRU1fUy6257OPO8WVc7FPznJyZoFUlVWAMFYZxb/s1600/IMG_4163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0N9TQ40MbcT-WRL9E1ZAQ41qYJWjS4j77eTscLldU4nnH9ZasXE8Zgyy9SiQchrv2-327hxepUBpRhNu8Q2s7L3C-ivlXEmjDbouOHVRU1fUy6257OPO8WVc7FPznJyZoFUlVWAMFYZxb/s640/IMG_4163.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sun came out</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCH0ufImt5604EkaNUf1nNkrdatDkCu0LUgUqLIHe1HGK9kKqg4aVcdLbv_3IuYCIPxxAoNCSWzx5xmIgogg_hThaa4qlvnykJTJtdWiszVgErkOAqbPW8EJD0qnPwK-7L8W74lsoXUwt6/s1600/IMG_4164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCH0ufImt5604EkaNUf1nNkrdatDkCu0LUgUqLIHe1HGK9kKqg4aVcdLbv_3IuYCIPxxAoNCSWzx5xmIgogg_hThaa4qlvnykJTJtdWiszVgErkOAqbPW8EJD0qnPwK-7L8W74lsoXUwt6/s640/IMG_4164.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake, rock and mist</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB4qIS83y-VsRGzT_yEHAUHtOvkn9lYqA-gtf1Ea_O9VPhnRppSrZZRIxHi4QAzcBwrpLY8C8abyjGbCiYxC4RUB7HiG0V75dsdMqPN6C_-JGLMKP5pOa1RWaxcpkvTD67Rv2CaYJci9rV/s1600/IMG_4166.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="557" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB4qIS83y-VsRGzT_yEHAUHtOvkn9lYqA-gtf1Ea_O9VPhnRppSrZZRIxHi4QAzcBwrpLY8C8abyjGbCiYxC4RUB7HiG0V75dsdMqPN6C_-JGLMKP5pOa1RWaxcpkvTD67Rv2CaYJci9rV/s1600/IMG_4166.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wonderful evening</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 6. </span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show">Overnight there
was a big thunderstorm and the ground was covered in little drifts of hail. But <span class="text_exposed_show">we
woke to more sunshine and were able to enjoy the 'jardin de
bain'. Over breakfast we did a rethink. Over the last few days we had
discovered a new principle of relativity - nothing can travel slower
than Paul up a big mountain - people try not to pass me, but time
dilates to make that impossible. French grandmothers carrying huge packs and ropes zip
past at unbelievable speed! We had planned to get to Vignemale in two
days, but now we know our rate of progress it seemed the 8 and 7 hour sections in
the guide would be 11 and 10 hrs, even if our knees could cope with the
big ascents and descents. Part of the problem is that we are carrying too much gear. So we walked back down to the Vallee d'Ossau by a different route and skipped one day-section, getting a lift around this massif and walking up from the other side. The 1400m climb back up was no more than we would have had to climb that day anyhow, and over a shorter distance on better tracks. From Day 10 we had no
more refuge bookings, so I could set my own pace.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8o69Ktdp3zVPvkjZZQe56OcfqhjIdFPjBgaJXGRdxu47gG9n9wKiZ7kq8sRnpymDB8boBaVMspxcgUSYArz6mmRhWviyRg8ppm4wL34ppf3IXug6xET_r8DTeF0IQ8Ox80WI2Ua27wd3J/s1600/IMG_4170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1147" data-original-width="1600" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8o69Ktdp3zVPvkjZZQe56OcfqhjIdFPjBgaJXGRdxu47gG9n9wKiZ7kq8sRnpymDB8boBaVMspxcgUSYArz6mmRhWviyRg8ppm4wL34ppf3IXug6xET_r8DTeF0IQ8Ox80WI2Ua27wd3J/s640/IMG_4170.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refuge d'Arremoulit from below. The big white tube is a long-drop - do not drink from lakes below refuges!!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1Fe-y8FXX60zhAzI3Laf3HYkn30_anJ5nD7AQyyV2vVAm_E7bRnlryqlNpqrk8X9hd1pqgdGvZ1h6UeQpXaajqUqNutGexmqITiGj5OfjBaUhoH36wX0dOuSadZ7CkxGty_aerM77ldL/s1600/IMG_4171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="562" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1Fe-y8FXX60zhAzI3Laf3HYkn30_anJ5nD7AQyyV2vVAm_E7bRnlryqlNpqrk8X9hd1pqgdGvZ1h6UeQpXaajqUqNutGexmqITiGj5OfjBaUhoH36wX0dOuSadZ7CkxGty_aerM77ldL/s1600/IMG_4171.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning view from Arremoulit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 7. </span></span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">We started again from the Refuge la Holle near Gavarnie
and climbed to Refuge de Baysellance, the highest staffed refuge in the
Pyrenees (2650m) and the usual starting point to climb Vignemale. Total
elevation gain was about 1400m, and most of it came after a long
horizontal walk, in a final steep pull. I was feeling weak and a bit
nauseous in the morning, as we trekked up the valley through t<span class="text_exposed_show">he
mountain pastures. It was a bit galling that people were driving along
the road below us, and when we had to lose 100m of height to get to a
carpark and join day walkers off to see the first waterfall I was quite
grumpy! But as we climbed up and started to get real mountain scenery
again I cheered up, and after a hot lunch (we were carrying too many freeze-dried
meals) I really enjoyed the final couple of hours of the walk. It got
colder and windier as we climbed, but the cloud base kept rising, giving
us views of the glacier of Vignemale and even, briefly, the summit. We were here for two nights and luckily it was an excellent Refuge - big, modern and with bunks instead of shelves. They even
hire crampons and ice-axes, which we did not know. We spent a nice
evening chatting with other walkers and late in the evening the clouds
lifted to give us spectacular views back to Gavarnie.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjezIHVl3_NR0JM-uXDHCZQPZE2skv7m0KrinAsXEin_JZDrlQcHCMlVxWcvXKpEQA2aKnELU8pIMeJF9CCPpmLMT_13J9bDerVa7JKLbhcEhKii6ZKqixBGNP1lDSAPhwOUQK-VBHr0JlP/s1600/IMG_4185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="665" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjezIHVl3_NR0JM-uXDHCZQPZE2skv7m0KrinAsXEin_JZDrlQcHCMlVxWcvXKpEQA2aKnELU8pIMeJF9CCPpmLMT_13J9bDerVa7JKLbhcEhKii6ZKqixBGNP1lDSAPhwOUQK-VBHr0JlP/s1600/IMG_4185.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refuge de Baysellance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4DnbqP_4L-OTlNVNl9Qs8tdMVgqJ1YEg3FfuPyognL2YuecRxNapJdqsHICs94NzXutf3-OJW5YvpiC7mQJSlNCQWmnUl22yxocRM0kCF7e75GTQUVIGTouWnILmOFFtYsCx3zl30wE_S/s1600/IMG_4196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4DnbqP_4L-OTlNVNl9Qs8tdMVgqJ1YEg3FfuPyognL2YuecRxNapJdqsHICs94NzXutf3-OJW5YvpiC7mQJSlNCQWmnUl22yxocRM0kCF7e75GTQUVIGTouWnILmOFFtYsCx3zl30wE_S/s640/IMG_4196.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gateau made with love, and ice axe hire</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 8. </span></span></span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">There was a fierce hailstorm last night, leaving drifts of
large hailstones all over the mountain. Today we intended to climb
Vignemale, a 3300m peak with a glacier crossing. We
awoke to thick fog. Nothing daunted, we hired crampons and ice axes
from the hut guardian and were on the track at 07.00. We walked a bit back
down the track to the Refuge before heading across the face of the
mountain. It was quite slow going, as the slope was ste<span class="text_exposed_show">ep
and the rock wet. At 2900m we got to the bottom of the glacier, still
in thick fog and with no obvious route. Our plan had been to follow
another party across, as we know nothing about walking on ice. We spent
an hour hunting for signs of an established route, finding a cairn that
seemed to suggest climbing a steep, exposed arête, which seemed a bad
idea on wet rock, and a broken trekking pole in a pile of rocks, signifying nothing
we could see. The fog was getting thicker if anything, and we were
getting cold, so we decided to give up and head down, on the way
encountering two other groups who had given up too. At 12.00 we were
back at the refuge for lunch. We hoped for at least a shorter walk up
Petit Vignemale but the fog stayed thick all day and people just played games
in the main room or, like us, read and slept in our bunks. Finally,
after dinner, around 8.30 the clouds lifted to give us a spectacular
sunset and amazing views.</span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd0s3GCx-Ex_QIvcUhY8sL8CTaussJwigkks8b_ewtxON4dQfNZIo1LJjRaxCHPja16lAksn20zhcMdaZF78nGkGzrIGvsBIMutOyDLY5eqjfGoj_Wbff9sz6IwYZWz5q4NIPbEwo-WBeK/s1600/IMG_4191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1215" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd0s3GCx-Ex_QIvcUhY8sL8CTaussJwigkks8b_ewtxON4dQfNZIo1LJjRaxCHPja16lAksn20zhcMdaZF78nGkGzrIGvsBIMutOyDLY5eqjfGoj_Wbff9sz6IwYZWz5q4NIPbEwo-WBeK/s640/IMG_4191.jpg" width="486" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOfdAPvg5h4NqwB_C_nt5MnQdhGoUFAcdYK0Fo-BWT7gqiKUFaRo8oFLNK0b6KtTWtEENi3OOPEvKeT_q-KeJj9rlwMcAKuR7aalE34Y1_6PDMsLfO10QWeihNUxNJQsa58L5TEqtsLZ0i/s1600/IMG_4194.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1157" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOfdAPvg5h4NqwB_C_nt5MnQdhGoUFAcdYK0Fo-BWT7gqiKUFaRo8oFLNK0b6KtTWtEENi3OOPEvKeT_q-KeJj9rlwMcAKuR7aalE34Y1_6PDMsLfO10QWeihNUxNJQsa58L5TEqtsLZ0i/s640/IMG_4194.jpg" width="462" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hailstones</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBljRvFXABh_JDCdbjBG8SVLsd7FzIRok6qN5ch8varZj7TZOLBBQSOf2aZvZu0F_0Z4sJqKNUzYJSDwkyQSz7WajV6j1Ch2rNIzzR3v43YjSkMEnlPw6oOkYZiToS6JGh0JAWOt1B4ceR/s1600/IMG_4192.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="644" data-original-width="1600" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBljRvFXABh_JDCdbjBG8SVLsd7FzIRok6qN5ch8varZj7TZOLBBQSOf2aZvZu0F_0Z4sJqKNUzYJSDwkyQSz7WajV6j1Ch2rNIzzR3v43YjSkMEnlPw6oOkYZiToS6JGh0JAWOt1B4ceR/s640/IMG_4192.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anyone seen a track?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDm5K54iOAK25TcVxfxyf6r28341iW44ZiohXiZV2C313IaNA_EiBe_n15SXEXeugtORUEVKQU4iuiVYHJC8zg5UimCzpuQ0FpAAv-MPn2Mz4FR-0B9fK8sX-N8hM5XYXBZb1fZUNZGPJK/s1600/IMG_4198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDm5K54iOAK25TcVxfxyf6r28341iW44ZiohXiZV2C313IaNA_EiBe_n15SXEXeugtORUEVKQU4iuiVYHJC8zg5UimCzpuQ0FpAAv-MPn2Mz4FR-0B9fK8sX-N8hM5XYXBZb1fZUNZGPJK/s640/IMG_4198.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stoyan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7GupzP4un0dKb5R3EQBPRq686N2orGLrLQDOy32EhQBzx6RCVupeIs8Us9wAvxQ57ag_hknOoyDC1vMo7PphQNtDOCir_UeiWWnN56kn3mlYfnjgG8GP8iLrf5Gf_KB_l8Wh7LCG_KWpu/s1600/IMG_4206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1176" data-original-width="1600" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7GupzP4un0dKb5R3EQBPRq686N2orGLrLQDOy32EhQBzx6RCVupeIs8Us9wAvxQ57ag_hknOoyDC1vMo7PphQNtDOCir_UeiWWnN56kn3mlYfnjgG8GP8iLrf5Gf_KB_l8Wh7LCG_KWpu/s640/IMG_4206.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening view back to Gavarnie</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 9. </span></span></span></span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Today we had to return to Gavarnie for Hugh to head
back to England. We had toyed with trying to squeeze
in another day for him, to attempt Vignemale again, and when we woke to a
bright morning with clear views of the summit it was very tempting. But
impractical. So we said farewell to Stoyan, the Bulgarian walker we had spent
the last evening chatting with over rather too much wine and myrtle
digestif. He had been caught in a flood we had been h<span class="text_exposed_show">earing
about for a few days from other walkers and we got the full story. An
ice dam broke in the storm three nights back and most of the tents near
Refuge de Renclusa were washed away. No-one hurt, but our he awoke
to find a torrent rushing past two meters from his tent door, pulled his
pants on and ran to the refuge, where they all slept on the floor. He
showed us photos of camping gear strewn for kilometers down the stream
the next day as he walked along it. Now he headed up the mountain while
we headed down. We were soon quite glad we had not tried again as fog
descended lower and lower as we walked and a freezing wind came up - we
were walking in long pants, beanies and rain jackets even at 1500m and
it would have been well below zero on the mountain. A cold snap in
mid-August. As a result we walked fast and were at the Refuge de Holle
by lunchtime.</span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><br /></span></span></span></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyg1xiAePi3iVmsKOpS9A7cNHyBRq3IVgFoiSF0MUAb5Uk3NTGI0gX1EJ-tij0H75z0Glcy_mHkqFomRNit0_MVzrfW-VGe_3xkLx-BHAjWzNT5zKS-A9X9E-_26QSwYcFM7nk_BShyphenhyphenKcX/s1600/IMG_4178.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1195" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyg1xiAePi3iVmsKOpS9A7cNHyBRq3IVgFoiSF0MUAb5Uk3NTGI0gX1EJ-tij0H75z0Glcy_mHkqFomRNit0_MVzrfW-VGe_3xkLx-BHAjWzNT5zKS-A9X9E-_26QSwYcFM7nk_BShyphenhyphenKcX/s640/IMG_4178.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refuge de Holle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><br /></span></span></span></span></span>
<br />
<b><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 10. </span></span></span></span></span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">We had a farewell dinner in a good restaurant in Gavarnie last night and got back to the refuge in time to hear a concert last night from a jazz band who
are walking and playing in mountain refuges from Mediterranean to
Atlantic. Hugh
headed back to London today and I had a rest day, getting a bus to Luz St Saveur to buy provisions and
washing clothes before heading up through the Brêche de Roland tomorrow. Hugh took the climbing gear home with him, and I collected my tent and sleeping mat that I had mailed ahead to Gavarnie. I met Stoyan the Bulgarian hiker again, who had come down from the mountains to go to a jazz festival in a nearby town. He made it up
Vignemale yesterday, but there was thick fog on the summit and no views.</span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<b><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Pyrenean Trek Day 11. </span></span></span></span></span></b><br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">Time to leave Gavarnie (1365m) and head up to the Brêche de Roland. This is one of the most famous sights in the Pyrenees. The crest of the range at this point is a huge, regular wall of brilliant white limestone </span></span></span></span></span><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="text_exposed_show">separating France from Spain</span></span></span></span></span>. One section has fallen, creating a pass. Legend has it that the hero of the medieval <i>Chanson de Roland</i> cut the breach with a dying blow of his sword. The refuge next to the Brêche is closed for renovation, so I camped next to it at 2587m, which I think is the highest I have pitched a tent. Although
it's 1200m the climb is on good, steady tracks and would have been quite
easy with a day pack. But with the camping gear and a week's worth of
food mine was about 17kg and despite taking it very slowly I found the climb
to the final Col pretty hard. The views were beautiful all the way, but
at the top, camped just below the Brêche and looking out over the Cirque de
Gavarnie, they are extraordinary. This campsite was another highlight of the trip to me. An amusing feature was that around 6.00pm, when about half a dozen tents were being erected in the little rock circles left by previous campers, the guardian emerged from the closed refuge and insisted that park regulations allowed no tents before 7.00pm. 'Sadique!' muttered the Frenchman next to me. We all sat next to our flat tents and cooked dinner and at 6.55 there was a sudden flurry of tent erecting.</span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_bWWj5KDa_zfghfyvw2E87KL-vcfLM43dVEwp6Sg8Gj1nMGtfCqOxET_YZ9vfa888eZARlckZlbiQ8yQcGPGCUsEs6QD10Xwq7y5uzEidd2MVruRulnMkZM-TiZtl5rP4RGCIjxn3S9D5/s1600/IMG_4227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1269" data-original-width="1600" height="506" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_bWWj5KDa_zfghfyvw2E87KL-vcfLM43dVEwp6Sg8Gj1nMGtfCqOxET_YZ9vfa888eZARlckZlbiQ8yQcGPGCUsEs6QD10Xwq7y5uzEidd2MVruRulnMkZM-TiZtl5rP4RGCIjxn3S9D5/s640/IMG_4227.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cirque de Gavarnie</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtiY2sKnVEwesRzYJFDWvp9a9ydJ-2S3lZrj3RgA9tRs9eHHPB-UbgiZz1dQnnDU1bdia-cXGd1pswyWTp0FxirJvuG0smas3JDQu2fJjpB1pDfEb2YrMbv7PWbQmD4zYwDATv78DIlGEq/s1600/IMG_4229.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtiY2sKnVEwesRzYJFDWvp9a9ydJ-2S3lZrj3RgA9tRs9eHHPB-UbgiZz1dQnnDU1bdia-cXGd1pswyWTp0FxirJvuG0smas3JDQu2fJjpB1pDfEb2YrMbv7PWbQmD4zYwDATv78DIlGEq/s640/IMG_4229.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brêche de Roland</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF3Cgtz1KruYXx2KDNCrk9f6Dy5clF7bstxTU-8G9GHjERReSMFWlhwtmBzokJhwHQ41LqRamJiXWfI64s-JM138GALnzQpaxIyiDVED37xsOJk9QKFBq23azwZdiM6p33kfJrp1L-Ij2L/s1600/IMG_4228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF3Cgtz1KruYXx2KDNCrk9f6Dy5clF7bstxTU-8G9GHjERReSMFWlhwtmBzokJhwHQ41LqRamJiXWfI64s-JM138GALnzQpaxIyiDVED37xsOJk9QKFBq23azwZdiM6p33kfJrp1L-Ij2L/s640/IMG_4228.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cirque de Gavarnie from campsite</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia55J-ctfzkqoEW_QQcujSasJNLgbTnpioCgguDLuzBI8YLVnQ0cAdYUPbtLpTT48sgElpzBTI7y3WJGiefQuko1HhqEvWx5Uaf9A3BNfohh8_EcNrUoCrrmMlXzur32iZYa7Y7hvAyuOJ/s1600/IMG_4230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia55J-ctfzkqoEW_QQcujSasJNLgbTnpioCgguDLuzBI8YLVnQ0cAdYUPbtLpTT48sgElpzBTI7y3WJGiefQuko1HhqEvWx5Uaf9A3BNfohh8_EcNrUoCrrmMlXzur32iZYa7Y7hvAyuOJ/s640/IMG_4230.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My campsite</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEF60sVgMq0zTMHkuSDAjI3n40Jb9CCiznSFetUhyphenhyphen8IwD5cmZCIxAqK9TCMbu8C9TcYBF-Q9xvwpduRSPpWc9BCL7-xppuhlQ2AiD7fJHcHsAawTrcFZ3Z-1zl3inWNtZpkGEHLPEAvHsP/s1600/IMG_4235.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEF60sVgMq0zTMHkuSDAjI3n40Jb9CCiznSFetUhyphenhyphen8IwD5cmZCIxAqK9TCMbu8C9TcYBF-Q9xvwpduRSPpWc9BCL7-xppuhlQ2AiD7fJHcHsAawTrcFZ3Z-1zl3inWNtZpkGEHLPEAvHsP/s1600/IMG_4235.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brêche de Roland</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy2Hyr20_mSBu3hP_WW9DJhdxfayoDbdPr_4oXDl1tR2HCzoPSq9rRz0sB3b4Hg2lTikZ_nA5lZdiFZ2aoCj7arfWC3po4qspxLmiJafyIq2WYF96OQioFozvZCZjVUyT79xYhK2xHC8JK/s1600/IMG_4238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy2Hyr20_mSBu3hP_WW9DJhdxfayoDbdPr_4oXDl1tR2HCzoPSq9rRz0sB3b4Hg2lTikZ_nA5lZdiFZ2aoCj7arfWC3po4qspxLmiJafyIq2WYF96OQioFozvZCZjVUyT79xYhK2xHC8JK/s640/IMG_4238.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dusk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://sonsofthedesert-abushwalkingblog.blogspot.co.uk/2017/09/pyrenean-trek-part-2-aragon.html">Pyrenean Trek Part II: Aragon</a></span></div>
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Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-20766949430597593622017-07-22T10:09:00.001+10:002017-07-22T10:10:46.988+10:00Kjlučica Fortress, Croatia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In Croatia we managed to hike to the impressive remains of a castle built in the 1200s and abandoned since a siege in 1648 with no restoration, no signs either to or at the site, and nothing to interpret the walls and towers but our own imagination. It was set at the end of a knife-edge ridge jutting out into a massive limestone canyon. An extraordinary evening.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVqYNdL16Srv1F4VRQfsQ2DCRRBbD5XipjBerfocQHp72lHSqiRTb5b8QrR_DYfnr0FBVwrmv7XveB50Mfd0f8j43kJrvn80N-EvK9kPZ6vHDEAxBdh0bKE4sbE9a5-_PneH-KLGqoH6E7/s1600/IMG_3812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="485" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVqYNdL16Srv1F4VRQfsQ2DCRRBbD5XipjBerfocQHp72lHSqiRTb5b8QrR_DYfnr0FBVwrmv7XveB50Mfd0f8j43kJrvn80N-EvK9kPZ6vHDEAxBdh0bKE4sbE9a5-_PneH-KLGqoH6E7/s1600/IMG_3812.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karola inside the castle</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh78w-90sUN6OcVBIXuqdgt0zweTtI6xINhZK-38MpQgUHs7DoFhuddVexYfqyDyxCS1u8gNZnmnFti0SefiRhtWc5cld1wmW3SPE2wlxTtG7aICHA0IOhSXQUzrPHBX4TxpXIMJ5lYfRDl/s1600/IMG_3844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1316" height="960" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh78w-90sUN6OcVBIXuqdgt0zweTtI6xINhZK-38MpQgUHs7DoFhuddVexYfqyDyxCS1u8gNZnmnFti0SefiRhtWc5cld1wmW3SPE2wlxTtG7aICHA0IOhSXQUzrPHBX4TxpXIMJ5lYfRDl/s640/IMG_3844.jpg" width="779" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View to the Krka river</td></tr>
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Ključica is the largest and best preserved medieval fortress in Krka National Park. It was erected by the Croatian Nelipić family in the 13th century, much fought over, conquered by the Ottoman Turks in 1546, who remained until 1648, and then abandoned for ever. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5rIsNI6Xu3djGspNG-lVtxkaKsUO54Q7aO5Fm9X4JGd6ibJqv7cP8hkc4EhtQse40iwOe8kO4T9rIa-lf7KcVEGHHKiMcBSQYR_s4AezXqXwh38-ffVx2J46vVNKeMPaHcavg-DDSqHgX/s1600/IMG_3835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="960" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5rIsNI6Xu3djGspNG-lVtxkaKsUO54Q7aO5Fm9X4JGd6ibJqv7cP8hkc4EhtQse40iwOe8kO4T9rIa-lf7KcVEGHHKiMcBSQYR_s4AezXqXwh38-ffVx2J46vVNKeMPaHcavg-DDSqHgX/s640/IMG_3835.jpg" width="720" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karola is sitting in the main keep, originally a three-storey
building with rooms for high-status people.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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There are a lot of well-developed conventional tourism sites in northern Dalmatia, and they are beautiful, highly organised and scrupulously clean - the control of litter here is amongst the best I have ever seen - but adventure tourism is in an odd state. A bit of internet research revealed amazing canyons, hikes, and even some via ferrata routes, but they are not well-advertised locally and I suspect mainly used by commercial tour groups. In one place, following some hints on the internet, we saw no signage on the highway or other roads, drove through what seemed to be a farmer’s yard, followed some indistinct wheel tracks across a barren limestone plain and arrived at a set of beautiful, new aluminium signs explaining the entry and access points to a canyon and the way to a via ferrata along the canyon wall (I wanted to do it with two prusik cords as an improvised via ferrata set, but Karola would not let me).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLSzpXCQmvABAsUSzcquDp73asl1DzkxPgaS8NAQkNC0ikz4Z7KxbJNCtzxIkrG4I6jM1CROEQj6q9JKNpLU-gNinHga178JAI1b57VcYMTSQSZJrR3lX0ETCE6bUZRPC5MwigmuezYr9H/s1600/IMG_3756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1110" data-original-width="1600" height="555" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLSzpXCQmvABAsUSzcquDp73asl1DzkxPgaS8NAQkNC0ikz4Z7KxbJNCtzxIkrG4I6jM1CROEQj6q9JKNpLU-gNinHga178JAI1b57VcYMTSQSZJrR3lX0ETCE6bUZRPC5MwigmuezYr9H/s640/IMG_3756.jpg" width="800" /></a></div>
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Although Ključica fortress is marked on tourist maps, no roads to it are shown and no instructions were available. With the help of a mountain bike trip report I worked out that one of the dirt roads from the village of Ključ gets very close. We again drove through a farm where the old men and dogs were not at all clear we should be there, then down a track between two stone walls so narrow that the proximity alert on our hire car screamed continuously from one end to the other. The road widened and began to descend to the Čikola river when suddenly we saw the castle out on a ridge to our left.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT8I1bgU7qhpbIT6ZQvhfPolaJk5SKLh5ncLLyUWAoMIY4DjVLxP5ngDZcErz1dhQkn-7AJCjDeAXoLCO0UCv0d_I_pbbVx-XMZGM4RVgRWzYAu_QzBBYWiGJPbtS0_utbqkyoh2jNNr9q/s1600/IMG_3786.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="960" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT8I1bgU7qhpbIT6ZQvhfPolaJk5SKLh5ncLLyUWAoMIY4DjVLxP5ngDZcErz1dhQkn-7AJCjDeAXoLCO0UCv0d_I_pbbVx-XMZGM4RVgRWzYAu_QzBBYWiGJPbtS0_utbqkyoh2jNNr9q/s640/IMG_3786.jpg" width="720" /></a></div>
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I shouldered the pack and we headed off down a small track past an olive grove. We had waited until late afternoon to start walking, but it was still 35C at 5.30 and the sun was beating down like a hammer. The river has completely dried up by this time of year, but this far down the gorge there is a green strip at the bottom. On the hills, however, it was just limestone scree and thorn bushes. We followed what were probably goat tracks along the scree slope.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6EknGV0jJ858yndpRPvasYBsUR1iy6wz2rvtfkRg5ZizxNF5qPuYyi_3j7Wvzn5i8TZ4MwLwFdNCpPCeVU3wVpwi5Os-SsiWwaIqOymWUPjtYOr1XnXWdcjDYnOkmsGCNMchyqzA3NVzy/s1600/IMG_3789.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="960" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6EknGV0jJ858yndpRPvasYBsUR1iy6wz2rvtfkRg5ZizxNF5qPuYyi_3j7Wvzn5i8TZ4MwLwFdNCpPCeVU3wVpwi5Os-SsiWwaIqOymWUPjtYOr1XnXWdcjDYnOkmsGCNMchyqzA3NVzy/s640/IMG_3789.jpg" width="720" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Thirty minutes and a litre of water later we were below the castle and started scrambling up the ridge. This is the easiest approach and the castle has a flanking wall thrown out here to force attackers down the ridge to where they have to approach from directly below the main walls. The other option is to approach along the knife-edge ridge, which runs slap bang into the gatehouse tower with sheer cliffs on either side. As we climbed up we saw some new timber work built onto the gatehouse tower and thought ‘Aha, so it <i>has</i> been set up for tourism'. How wrong we were.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAOrgL97WTBW1iS1AJwFBliYDj9gyWqojNIeSO2n-0pleNmKx79FpBa1fAGifOqmTQILRlMauKv39LMGMlCacUq6zjdzdyEx248i28BKy6Rd6x2uwqEpunoZVaWiFSw7jWSEBHQI9m-FlF/s1600/IMG_3792.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAOrgL97WTBW1iS1AJwFBliYDj9gyWqojNIeSO2n-0pleNmKx79FpBa1fAGifOqmTQILRlMauKv39LMGMlCacUq6zjdzdyEx248i28BKy6Rd6x2uwqEpunoZVaWiFSw7jWSEBHQI9m-FlF/s640/IMG_3792.jpg" width="960" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From below - note flanking wall running down the slope</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAzZCOzDAwwxML8yyAqldq4xAgU_Ae3XL5n8RpQ52LVw5HRmVn4HWiXUfenBAQZqYgaqXy7Cv8QAup3TzK_nWawH1tryxwH35lwvEhir5KDcLhoU2vQAXoWVrSuyMg0YMnuPjoRJTBfSXm/s1600/IMG_3849.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAzZCOzDAwwxML8yyAqldq4xAgU_Ae3XL5n8RpQ52LVw5HRmVn4HWiXUfenBAQZqYgaqXy7Cv8QAup3TzK_nWawH1tryxwH35lwvEhir5KDcLhoU2vQAXoWVrSuyMg0YMnuPjoRJTBfSXm/s640/IMG_3849.jpg" width="960" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting close - that looks like restoration work!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Thirty minutes later we passed through a hole in the curtain wall and
climbed through another into the outer bailey. The view that awaited us on the other side
was extraordinary - a sheer drop of 100m and a panoramic view of Čikola
canyon and the surrounding cliffs. It was breathtaking.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUMBNHZQdYYWL_LLtJRj26iYTeVwNYUeggpvl3gn9GpU-zei-ad7R5NsgNO3NtvPtbwema7_s5uMc7kPfFDFMfJiBHBn09_fiDI01CIrVVu-K556Kz4q6wlz_dc8MvYtX5IOITI8_HNMYf/s1600/IMG_3810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUMBNHZQdYYWL_LLtJRj26iYTeVwNYUeggpvl3gn9GpU-zei-ad7R5NsgNO3NtvPtbwema7_s5uMc7kPfFDFMfJiBHBn09_fiDI01CIrVVu-K556Kz4q6wlz_dc8MvYtX5IOITI8_HNMYf/s640/IMG_3810.jpg" width="960" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Behind her it is straight down</td></tr>
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The sense of excitement was increased by the fact that the interior of
the castle was completely unrestored - you just scrambled over piles of
loose masonry to get from one part to another. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDJFbBQebMWZkLkLgxxeeF3uIlVxKnpzMnD64p1PqUESj6OUjAWc9J3MGZAyyvjvQMa2MnUaa2v95UwB7os0GKNQgrxn-qGXQ4le2NaGrrf0CdfYMRYsA97xAZ9Tsed5srKAxIuhbkTd6H/s1600/IMG_3817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDJFbBQebMWZkLkLgxxeeF3uIlVxKnpzMnD64p1PqUESj6OUjAWc9J3MGZAyyvjvQMa2MnUaa2v95UwB7os0GKNQgrxn-qGXQ4le2NaGrrf0CdfYMRYsA97xAZ9Tsed5srKAxIuhbkTd6H/s640/IMG_3817.jpg" width="960" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karola climbing out of the bailey - the walled enclosure outside the keep.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL5ZxNJ5wz7pp-9g4UQiCN0LxMOkXknURgktpNy-3-_0CPzHG-Tf8QQEHFS75Rt_U5qizRzT5cb8Hz7SKetZFEeKZIdcRtK4nOt1t3oMkQ-2kuTm8FGONRcg3eTkDRkgPtcLYbksjAmbMP/s1600/IMG_3804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL5ZxNJ5wz7pp-9g4UQiCN0LxMOkXknURgktpNy-3-_0CPzHG-Tf8QQEHFS75Rt_U5qizRzT5cb8Hz7SKetZFEeKZIdcRtK4nOt1t3oMkQ-2kuTm8FGONRcg3eTkDRkgPtcLYbksjAmbMP/s640/IMG_3804.jpg" width="960" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stone projectile inside the castle. Catapult ammo?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZIXStuP-8uMkzjXzFZdhqyVfAcqIq_xe0GAz7WGNoeHJp2OHhy2sdO5R1vZF_An3TVIRqHXP5ouVQYWB0pa59SGtCA3ux8haMLlEUd7HxlVJ8ecHkMFj-7o0Vph6esLs3ZEabQsJxrv-/s1600/IMG_3819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="960" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZIXStuP-8uMkzjXzFZdhqyVfAcqIq_xe0GAz7WGNoeHJp2OHhy2sdO5R1vZF_An3TVIRqHXP5ouVQYWB0pa59SGtCA3ux8haMLlEUd7HxlVJ8ecHkMFj-7o0Vph6esLs3ZEabQsJxrv-/s640/IMG_3819.jpg" width="720" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Additional rooms on north side of the main keep</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The ‘restoration work’ we
had seen must have been contracted to the Croatian branch of Dodgy Brothers. A timber walkway has been built right around the gatehouse tower, but built to the standard of dad and dave's back deck and already falling apart. On this side it is hanging over a 100m drop held in place by galvanised chain and galvanised screws driven into the stone. I was not going near it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtXFa8rijY2t6KToelKyZEs6iMdSbgV_mD0g1DI0pFLKXSKwgxn-fxRtvyPwqJTehoikJ3ptZzNiNlBVVo4Bhnu7szNrpd121Dn7-R_0PIcwnZb70PdXE7NpxPwEvAEUKD3JXa_N0D-Gmy/s1600/IMG_3829.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtXFa8rijY2t6KToelKyZEs6iMdSbgV_mD0g1DI0pFLKXSKwgxn-fxRtvyPwqJTehoikJ3ptZzNiNlBVVo4Bhnu7szNrpd121Dn7-R_0PIcwnZb70PdXE7NpxPwEvAEUKD3JXa_N0D-Gmy/s640/IMG_3829.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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To get onto the dodgy brothers deck you walk under this crumbling mass of rubble wall fill, which they have propped up with a 4x4 timber for added security (or perhaps the wall pressure on the 4x4 helps holds the deck on the cliff?).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigtQXIQf_S_NxSSZG0JyLfLRtQveOsfDA_2wHmQ-pwJhv8zsrCpAELvkrANmLwVlHZO4jjH-PLxEueTVLy7KFwUm8immRIKXfpxEfePOg-9G_6pf3pJJJinPaAcvgfSrWZbLO5GOG8qwhx/s1600/IMG_3847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="960" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigtQXIQf_S_NxSSZG0JyLfLRtQveOsfDA_2wHmQ-pwJhv8zsrCpAELvkrANmLwVlHZO4jjH-PLxEueTVLy7KFwUm8immRIKXfpxEfePOg-9G_6pf3pJJJinPaAcvgfSrWZbLO5GOG8qwhx/s640/IMG_3847.jpg" width="720" /></a></div>
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The state of the work here is all the more puzzling because tourist infrastructure in Croatia is generally first-rate. Anyway, we enjoyed the excitement - but it would have been even better without the dodgy brothers' additions.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK7HHpcwmQPAWQhS_C0Pe6rdULulFtZRlKGPJCijJEjdIGirlXnHvFPJmiMIhn-GjkcYlD6SZ51r1W7P29m6ks-7g0-HJg4m4jIz065cLl-JrnNTf3BlDUphW_kPXZ5rvLI23K8HCINQgU/s1600/IMG_3825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1183" height="960" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK7HHpcwmQPAWQhS_C0Pe6rdULulFtZRlKGPJCijJEjdIGirlXnHvFPJmiMIhn-GjkcYlD6SZ51r1W7P29m6ks-7g0-HJg4m4jIz065cLl-JrnNTf3BlDUphW_kPXZ5rvLI23K8HCINQgU/s640/IMG_3825.jpg" width="710" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dodgy brothers access ramp</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj66S28kgul0tGvADyVi-vgGKxbjUpSkUGPqR3DzxNdfeCcA-bZgLMlEABxFTCABCtQ0Ub7urnEfRP03xqAMPC2c7SatAe65nO_B2Vl4Kwv5HTqrjFMjF4BtA41vzeb6rTyTkwcrXnxxGzZ/s1600/IMG_3828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1205" height="960" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj66S28kgul0tGvADyVi-vgGKxbjUpSkUGPqR3DzxNdfeCcA-bZgLMlEABxFTCABCtQ0Ub7urnEfRP03xqAMPC2c7SatAe65nO_B2Vl4Kwv5HTqrjFMjF4BtA41vzeb6rTyTkwcrXnxxGzZ/s640/IMG_3828.jpg" width="723" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View to the Čikola valley</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyuowvPZv8mCS-uErG5VVgr9WbVaTonGdEsYgf3L5rVrct5kxNpZfPFkgZeDwiiM4dhA0tGycZipYaxCZeVYj_LO9u3Knt4r-9b2Ka7P-5PhW5xy0iSPpNtF3BdxeBdNpK3EZMzBak_WtQ/s1600/IMG_3848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="827" data-original-width="1600" height="495" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyuowvPZv8mCS-uErG5VVgr9WbVaTonGdEsYgf3L5rVrct5kxNpZfPFkgZeDwiiM4dhA0tGycZipYaxCZeVYj_LO9u3Knt4r-9b2Ka7P-5PhW5xy0iSPpNtF3BdxeBdNpK3EZMzBak_WtQ/s640/IMG_3848.jpg" width="960" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keep interior with late afternoon sun</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwFHkJvjQS7MeXe_Vit1YQNL953rw_NLot9nuwa4GUl1AroggXj3GBFglhpv-u6n6x6BMC_mc34iwsM4d5bKDFzu335WQhzs2mVyKqaUR-Fxjlbkr6OeoVn48htTRCyRzFg0lt4IzSgel3/s1600/IMG_3821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwFHkJvjQS7MeXe_Vit1YQNL953rw_NLot9nuwa4GUl1AroggXj3GBFglhpv-u6n6x6BMC_mc34iwsM4d5bKDFzu335WQhzs2mVyKqaUR-Fxjlbkr6OeoVn48htTRCyRzFg0lt4IzSgel3/s640/IMG_3821.jpg" width="960" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outer Bailey and Čikola valley</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqOlc6e0DfyZZ32ji1PEQco6BKgYOQgQ6BBFPlZHSZydtijJRjsm2uRi8TsTaI2-LYL-E92Uc7Ti0O4Tf-uOQpb_26CBhCsX3x5EhwRb3PnxtALMMDNhmuJ8iAmVuHEZnAxCR0w92VhKOM/s1600/IMG_3840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="866" data-original-width="1600" height="519" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqOlc6e0DfyZZ32ji1PEQco6BKgYOQgQ6BBFPlZHSZydtijJRjsm2uRi8TsTaI2-LYL-E92Uc7Ti0O4Tf-uOQpb_26CBhCsX3x5EhwRb3PnxtALMMDNhmuJ8iAmVuHEZnAxCR0w92VhKOM/s640/IMG_3840.jpg" width="960" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flanking wall with view to Krka river</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Evening was coming and we decided to head straight down the the bottom of the gully, as we could see a bit of a footpad on the other side.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIcnulBrgBSUqsDNw9xYg_w_PUJ9W53nM5ujUG3ze5zr2wTikRoSpyoIjeUWsSxggi0LOE7A1TusqJ0PzuqoSl0RSPJtJtNjRL3eXVDdModBzODsS9RHpP1_Q5Kd_PVHNuIl1fYVqrfq9V/s1600/IMG_3852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1202" data-original-width="1600" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIcnulBrgBSUqsDNw9xYg_w_PUJ9W53nM5ujUG3ze5zr2wTikRoSpyoIjeUWsSxggi0LOE7A1TusqJ0PzuqoSl0RSPJtJtNjRL3eXVDdModBzODsS9RHpP1_Q5Kd_PVHNuIl1fYVqrfq9V/s640/IMG_3852.jpg" width="960" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfCaeENVefZE3lHPxO0AT39Iz0dTggnm6xtAT1FMZ5jpkUpNPVDOsEgDLtylqJcFZPzhZTD-PGeYGl5cVXEIfXENfX38Ka7M9g34JahdNvbutxdHAuAN-zJxtDw0zHkqoEnSAqwL-HvjL-/s1600/IMG_3868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1210" height="960" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfCaeENVefZE3lHPxO0AT39Iz0dTggnm6xtAT1FMZ5jpkUpNPVDOsEgDLtylqJcFZPzhZTD-PGeYGl5cVXEIfXENfX38Ka7M9g34JahdNvbutxdHAuAN-zJxtDw0zHkqoEnSAqwL-HvjL-/s640/IMG_3868.jpg" width="723" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cairn - no wonder this way is a bit easier</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOLViDH6NrQ1m18hXtss6XwQoy1nycE30t1_DPePFqn_7-QNRfJf5grIHaLkf1uL8j2mdRYzGYhbHXH1Ar6KoQoQnBMM6Y79YUczsOKjqyfxyNgdKBiLAqtmaWkj5hc7lw6qwyOj5XdXVg/s1600/IMG_3863.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1179" height="960" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOLViDH6NrQ1m18hXtss6XwQoy1nycE30t1_DPePFqn_7-QNRfJf5grIHaLkf1uL8j2mdRYzGYhbHXH1Ar6KoQoQnBMM6Y79YUczsOKjqyfxyNgdKBiLAqtmaWkj5hc7lw6qwyOj5XdXVg/s640/IMG_3863.jpg" width="710" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karola handles the heat better than I do - but those sandals were as issue on the scree slope!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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It was still 30C, so we were glad to be in the shade of the opposite hill. The castle, however, was still catching the evening light and looking very impressive. No doubt this historic site will be properly restored soon, so we felt privileged to have had this 'wild' experience of it. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYT1j1clVYSSKOIddXQ7jBzhhpDhN1uYuKATSVMQAaQRs-yUJjV6WYnxrFlCBpibJeDGcsrTQnBghgrI4QC04zx2JGwfkOcjSGCOZumBhzxBFEf9dnTBC5N3671eHtLyeZ0-L9_k_BvUwd/s1600/IMG_3874.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1124" data-original-width="1600" height="672" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYT1j1clVYSSKOIddXQ7jBzhhpDhN1uYuKATSVMQAaQRs-yUJjV6WYnxrFlCBpibJeDGcsrTQnBghgrI4QC04zx2JGwfkOcjSGCOZumBhzxBFEf9dnTBC5N3671eHtLyeZ0-L9_k_BvUwd/s640/IMG_3874.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
<br />Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-8043584531417515752017-01-27T12:23:00.000+11:002017-01-27T12:23:38.185+11:00Routeburn Track and Milford Track<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
About a year ago a couple of the sons and an American friend hatched a plan to walk two of New Zealand's most iconic tracks: the Routeburn and the Milford. The Routeburn runs from Mt Aspiring National Park near Glenorchy over the Harris Saddle into Fiordland National Park. The Milford, perhaps one of the two or three most iconic walks in the world, runs from Lake Te Anau to Milford Sound, one the fiords on the west coast of the South Island.<br />
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We hovered over our computers about a year ago when bookings opened for the huts, and scored some hut bookings. Then, just a few weeks before this blog entry was posted, we headed off. We flew into Christchurch so as to gently motor up to the mountains, and see how the old town is going after the earthquakes - none of us has been there since those devastating quakes. It's spirit seems undaunted, but there is still devastation on every corner, many years after the disaster.<br />
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We started outdoor activities by spending a day at Wanaka, and doing some walks into the base of Mt Cook. Here is our first view of Mt Cook/Aoraki as we approach the track leading to it:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-g9zPH27/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-g9zPH27/0/1430x1430/_DSC9983-Edit-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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And here is as close as we got to this mighty peak, the highest in Australasia:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-hjsn9xq/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-hjsn9xq/0/1430x1430/_DSC0010-Pano-Edit-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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Then it was time to move on to the real walking; so on we went to Glenorchy near where the Routeburn starts. The weather was looking a little ominous. Recall the floating ice in the last photo is in midsummer, not what Australians are used to!<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-G78cZpP/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-G78cZpP/0/1430x1430/_DSC0141-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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The night before we started, we went for a wander along the Dart River<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-MMrRvKX/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-MMrRvKX/0/1430x1430/_DSC0108-Pano-Edit-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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The first days walking on the track in the drizzle was through Beech forest and ferns. The ferns are really amazing, with their golden brown curled fronds looking as though they are about to burst out at any time:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-krqgkpT/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-krqgkpT/0/1430x1430/IMG_0435-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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Very soon we were at the first hut. Embarrassingly soon: one of us (your photographer I'm ashamed to admit) had booked the huts a year ago, and had assumed as with most of these tracks, you have to book all the huts. But the Routeburn has more huts than you can possibly need, a result of which is that there was very little distance to the first hut, and little distance to the next one! Serendipitously this turned out to be a good thing. In the first instance it allowed us to explore the Routeburn North Branch, a little explored track that is a real bush track, not a wide tourist track. Here's a lovely cairn near the end of it:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-c5KFWtw/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-c5KFWtw/0/1430x1430/_DSC0207-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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And here are two of us enjoying the ferns and views at the little saddle where the track ends:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-rhx9TWH/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-rhx9TWH/0/1430x1430/_DSC0214-Edit-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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The next day was another day with almost no distance to the following hut: but it didn't rain, it poured! Over 100mm of rain! The previous day it poured two once we got to the hut - we got out and did the Routeburn North in the only relatively dry spot of the trip. Here's the single, fleeting, moment when some sun appeared when we were waiting in the hut for a chance to get to the next one without getting soaked:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-bbWqwQs/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-bbWqwQs/0/1430x1430/_DSC0237-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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So we found a moderately drizzly period to dash to the next hut, and hunkered down for the next day: the climb up over the Harris Saddle, which takes you from Mt Aspiring NP to Fiordland NP<br />
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This part of the walk, past Routeburn Falls, quickly becomes Alpine: as evidenced by the lovely Mt Cook Lilly (which I'm sure everyone will quickly spot is not a lilly of any kind, but a daisy...)<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-tCGThK5/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-tCGThK5/0/1430x1430/_DSC0247-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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Then, just as we were rising into the alpine area of the saddle, the sun came out. Thank goodness we had not attempted this walk the previous day! The conditions up to the top of the saddle were superb; cloud and sun chasing each other in a photographically glorious display.<br />
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Here we are just having climbed out of the Routeburn valley, and you can see the Routeburn River (or Route Burn) flowing through this higher valley before descending:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-kzLKLqj/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-kzLKLqj/0/1430x1430/_DSC0258-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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And here are a couple of images of the very source of the Route Burn, as it flows out of Lake Harris:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-hrkbpHm/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-hrkbpHm/0/1430x1430/_DSC0303-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-gzTNCHL/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-gzTNCHL/0/1430x1430/_DSC0310-Edit-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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And here is Lake Harris itself, just below the saddle:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-5kHjmwh/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-5kHjmwh/0/1430x1430/_DSC0320%20Panorama-Edit-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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After the saddle, and as we began the alpine descent, the weather closed in completely, with driving rain and mist making conditions a little treacherous and needing a bit of care.<br />
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This reminds me of something that's worth saying about both of these walks. They are widely publicised, and with the huts providing shelter and gas, you can have a very light pack. In many conditions, they are pretty easy walking to anyone who is a keen bushwalker/tramper/hiker. Even then as conditions deteriorate the routes deserve respect. But a lot of people do these walks who are not well prepared. We met one guy walking for hours in very cold rain in a few tee shirts and a cheap plastic poncho. We remonstrated kindly with him - something I at least am reluctant to do. But we were seriously concerned for his safely. Death from hypothermia is not uncommon. He was in danger even if he kept moving, and had he tripped and become unable to move for a while, hypothermia was extremely likely. We met him agin in Te Anau, buying gear. Our remonstrations were as nothing compared to the serve that one of the hut wardens have him. I like to think she may have saved his life.<br />
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Anyhow we descended to Mackenzie hut, where the weather began to improve after we arrived, giving an opportunity to photograph the lake near the hut:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-5WsRg8P/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-5WsRg8P/0/1430x1430/_DSC0380-Pano-Edit-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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The walk out presented no drama, besides unrelenting rain, and we were soon at our car which had been moved to the other side of the walk by an excellent car moving service (Easyhike). Rating of the walk: superb! The weather wasn't as bad as we feared, and we had good visibility for most of the parts of the walk that needed it, other than the descent.<br />
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Then it was on to Te Anau to regroup, dry gear, and eat non freeze dried food. A shout out here is required to Radha's Indian. They used to be a takeaway place in the Mobil petrol station, but demand grew and they have a place of their own. And it is excellent - it wouldn't be out of place in a major city with a large Indian population, and is likely far and away the best food in Te Anau (there are some attempts at fine dining which are like fine but an order of magnitude, literally, more expensive).<br />
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The next walk, the iconic Milford Track, begins with a boat trip across lake Te Anau. Here's one of use getting excited:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-JLqqfLM/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-JLqqfLM/0/1430x1430/_DSC0429-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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And here's a typical piece of goodness that you see from the boat:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-g6bXwMX/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-g6bXwMX/0/1430x1430/_DSC0449-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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Then we begin the first short leg of the track. The forest here has a floor which is purely moss and lichen:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-7Dt6v78/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-7Dt6v78/0/1430x1430/_DSC0505-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here's what that looks like closer up<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-jD6WVSx/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-jD6WVSx/0/1430x1430/_DSC0509-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-pm9kJdf/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-pm9kJdf/0/1430x1430/_DSC0546-Edit-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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The next day dawned misty, as we clung to the Clinton River<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-wbz3wKP/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-wbz3wKP/0/1430x1430/_DSC0551-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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But soon some sun came out, lighting up glorious views of the river, the valley and peaks<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-4DRxpv5/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-4DRxpv5/0/1430x1430/_DSC0618-Edit-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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At one point we made our way off the track into the valley itself, and were rewarded by this glorious view of the mountains framed by iconic Toi-Toi (the native grass).<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-JSNWwM2/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-JSNWwM2/0/1430x1430/_DSC0661-Edit-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here's some of the grass close up:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-GXJjvmX/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-GXJjvmX/0/1430x1430/_DSC0681-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here is one of the wonderful little lakes that form at the base of the sheer cliff lines, which are over a thousand metres high and almost perfectly vertical because of the way the glaciers scoured out these valleys.<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-C7hbVgg/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-C7hbVgg/0/X3/_DSC0920-Pano-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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The next day dawned a little cloudy, but dry and with not too strong a wind, which is important for safety over the Mackinnon Pass. Here is one of us on the top of the Mackinnon Pass, by the memorial to Quintin Mackinnon, one of the people who found this route from lake Te Anau to Milford.<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-Mt4P2FK/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-Mt4P2FK/0/1430x1430/_DSC0976-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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At the beginning of the descent from the pass there is quite a lot of a dwarf, Alpine variety of the iconic New Zealand Flax. Here are a couple of flower spikes against the mountains.<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-5V4wRPF/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-5V4wRPF/0/1430x1430/_DSC1028-Edit-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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A little further down the descent is an old shelter, which is is growing a most impressive kind of furry orange lichen:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-BF7RsHk/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-BF7RsHk/0/1430x1430/_DSC1029-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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After a side trip to the Sutherland Falls, the tallest permanent falls in NZ at nearly 600m) we hit the hut. The falls were remarkable, but not in way that could be captured on camera in the conditions we were in. But one of the truly amazing things about this walk, especially in this weather, is the waterfalls. Huge ones, falling over a thousand metres, small rills, rushing whitewater. I have a vast number of photos. But I think in their profusion they'd bore most of you, so here's one, smaller but lovely, that can stand in for the rest:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-h8VRxW6/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-h8VRxW6/0/1430x1430/_DSC1112-Edit-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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All too soon, after passing Lake Ada, we reach the end of the track. Here's the view from where we waited for the boat to pick us up and take us through Milford Sound to Milford:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-vgfHcMV/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-vgfHcMV/0/1430x1430/_DSC1171-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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Talking of waterfalls, here's one we saw on the boat, given scale by the three or four story high cruise boat at its base!<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-dwf8VwK/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-dwf8VwK/0/1430x1430/_DSC1232-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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And so ends our summer holiday and two wonderful walks! We'll be back, likely on some of the unformed routes through Fiordland. Just a small coda: the night before we flew back we stayed in a motel in Queenstown where the airport is, which turned out to have the most remarkable view of the Remarkables which we could enjoy from our room's balcony. Sitting there watching the light change on the hills in the evening was the perfect way to end a great trip:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-QgXbzwT/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Routeburn-and-Milford/i-QgXbzwT/0/1430x1430/Remarkable-1430x1430.jpg" /></a><br />
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DBMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02267044904600856553noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-47883813385000118342016-12-06T10:16:00.001+11:002017-01-27T09:35:29.412+11:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Devil's Pinch and Starlight Canyons<br />
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Some Sons of the Desert and many stalwarts from the Sydney University Bushwalking club spend the last weekend in Newnes, in the Wolgan Valley.<br />
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The plan was to visit two classic canyons: Devil's Pinch and Starlight. The usual approach to these canyons is to abseil down from the plateau, but instead we climbed up into them. This is possible because these canyons are cracks in the high plateau which go down to the cliff line on the edge of the plateau. But below the cliff line is a couple of hundred metres of steep vegetated hillside which descends to the Wolgan river. So by following the river down to where the canyons are and clubbing up the hillside and crawling along the cliff edge, it's possible to enter the canyons from below at the point they break out from the cliff.<br />
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So off we headed on the only cool break in a period of unpleasantly hot weather, and soon gained the cliff edge.<br />
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First canyon was Devil's Pinch (named for a pinch in the river below a rock formation which looks rather like diabolical horns)<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Yerranderee/i-HQphWgD/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Yerranderee/i-HQphWgD/0/X3/2016-12-06-09.27.05%20ZS%20retouched-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here's a view of the exit from the canyon with the thin strip of light and the Coachwood trees growing in the entrance...<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Bushwalking/n-dLckb/i-dgNQK65/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-dgNQK65/0/X3/i-dgNQK65-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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Then it was on to Starlight Canyon.<br />
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It's easy to see how it gets its name: the glow worms look like constellations in the night sky. In this image the sky is red because of the red head torches we used (red light doesn't disturb the glow worms). I thought it better than the alternative which is pure unlit black rock with nothing but the little lights, as it gives some sense of the rock of the cavern.<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Yerranderee/i-qrNzZgV/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Yerranderee/i-qrNzZgV/0/X3/_DSC9300-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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And here (lit with white light from head torches) is an image of the little slimy cords of sticky droplets that the glow worms use to trap prey. You can see some poor insect caught in this diabolical trap. The glow of the worms attracts insects, and as it reflects off the droplets, makes a truly deadly trap.<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Yerranderee/i-XJtGmqF/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Yerranderee/i-XJtGmqF/0/X3/_DSC9302-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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And finally my favourite image; a section of the Starlight Canyon where a shaft of light descends in front of a section covered with green moss:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Yerranderee/i-hRMxppX/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Yerranderee/i-hRMxppX/0/X3/2016-12-06-09.05.38%20ZS%20retouched-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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A great weekend indeed! Thanks to all who organised it!</div>
DBMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02267044904600856553noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-11648633244267812912016-07-23T21:30:00.000+10:002016-07-25T10:06:27.914+10:00Larapinta! (with a coda at Uluru-Kata Tjuta)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It was a year in the planning, with various delays and pull-outs, but thanks largely to Paul's hard work it came off: the Sons of the Desert trip to the Larapinta Trail along the West MacDonnell Ranges in the Northern Territory, West of Alice Springs.<br />
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We met up in the Alice the night before our pick up: the final party was Paul, Daniela, Kristie and your resident photographer (though not in many recent posts) David. Paul had arranged for a transport company to pick us up and take us back. The plan for was for 7 nights, starting at Simpson's Gap and ending at Hugh Gorge. That's not exactly what happened as will become apparent, but that was a good thing, we think!<br />
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An early morning start had us on the track just after dawn. The walk started out in some very nice country indeed. We were thrilled to be out there and in retrospect glad that it began this way, because it turned out that nice though it was, this had nothing on what was to come..<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-xLmTMQX/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-xLmTMQX/0/X3/_DSC9167%20Panorama-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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Lunchtime has us at Bond Gap where there was a little water and some bullrushes to prove it. The view seems to be that you should never drink the water in water holes. We think it very unlikely that - properly treated - there could be a problem. We've drunk much worse. Our best guess is that they don't want people to rely in any way on found water, because that could encourage folly and making plans that don't assume that the only water is to be found at the trailhead tanks.<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-66ZpdQm/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-66ZpdQm/0/X3/_DSC9200-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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Towards the end of this section we had our first glimpses of Arenge Bluff: here's Paul suitably buoyed by its presence:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-zXppkqt/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-zXppkqt/0/X3/_DSC9203-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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Soon we made it into Mulga Flat (after discovering that our notes told us that the section ended at a place now known as Old Mulga flat, and that we now needed to walk a couple of kilometres more). After we set up camp, we headed back to higher ground to get a view of Arenge Bluff in the Alpenglow:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-QCmRRSL/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-QCmRRSL/0/X3/_DSC9221-2-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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When the sun went down we were treated to this spectacle over the ranges:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-6gbrGSb/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-6gbrGSb/0/X3/_DSC9229-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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And here is an image of Paul and Daniela watching it raptly:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-xKQGMZz/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-xKQGMZz/0/X3/_DSC9238-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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Morning dawned gloriously for the party the next day (yes; photo geeks may suspect this image is included because of the gloriously clean starburst of the Zeiss Loxia 21mm lens...)<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-GzQjcMS/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-GzQjcMS/0/X3/_DSC9252-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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The walk from there gets even better. A highlight was Spring Gap: here is Daniela resting in front of the waterhole. The photo is pretty, but it can't begin to convey the sense of awe that a bit of water can provoke in this dry, dry land.<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-KvBbjSF/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-KvBbjSF/0/X3/_DSC9263-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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Soon we arrive at Jay Creek. As we arrive we find, right by the creek itself, this foul smelling dead bovine:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-KpRGHVm/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-KpRGHVm/0/X3/_DSC9291-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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We move as far away as possible to camp! Later that night a large group of walkers arrive, and we judge by their torches that they set up camp in a nice circle right around the festering corpse! It's only after they have set up and turned in that we hear shouts of horror and disgust. Still, it seems they were too tired to move camp. They were having a tough time of it: we read in a logbook entry later that they had twisted ankles, broken knees and other troubles.<br />
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After we set up camp we climbed a couple of hundred metres up onto the bluff that guarded the gap leading to Fish Hole. Our plan was to climb up to a position to watch the sunset but still be able to get back down before complete blackness. Here's Daniela relaxing on top, waiting for the sun to go down:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-kJ2cf9B/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-kJ2cf9B/0/X3/_DSC9324-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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And here's that landscape in the valley behind her as the sun gets close to setting behind the trees:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-R8dqtSp/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-R8dqtSp/0/X3/_DSC9334-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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And finally what we climbed for: the last ruddy effects of the sun on the bluff on the other side of the gap:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-WGDWZRZ/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-WGDWZRZ/0/X3/_DSC9341-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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Next day we head into that gap and soon come to Fish Hole, a sacred site. Here are Paul and Kristie, looking suitably spiritual:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-cJJQSC8/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-cJJQSC8/0/X3/_DSC9364-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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And here's the whole party (barring Your Photographer) relaxing by the Hole:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-Tq2HMbX/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-Tq2HMbX/0/X3/_DSC9358-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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A little further in and the track starts to involve scrambling through the valley. As it gets narrower the vegetation starts to be dominated by an amazing cycad and cypress community. Different species, but a similar affinity group to the cypress and cycad communities in, for example, the Shoalhaven Valley in NSW.<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-S9BK5Pz/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-S9BK5Pz/0/X3/_DSC9389%20Panorama-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here's Krisite climbing up one of the tougher waterfalls, handing her trekking pole up to Daniela to give her more free hands for the climb:<br />
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<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-GGtJqmH/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-GGtJqmH/0/X3/_DSC9404-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
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Finally we get to Standley Chasm. It's an odd place: as we arrived it began to rain, and we just got our tents up in time on the offical camp site which was just a small portion of grass near the carpark. The so-called hot showers rely on power which lasts at best 15 seconds before the circuit breaker goes. But all was forgiven because we were able, having got the tents up when it was dry, to sit by the fire on a covered balcony while the rain pelted down. The only downside was a TV with a documentary about Aboriginal history narrated by Ernie Dingo on permanent loop - but even that became weirdly comfortable as some of the party became word perfect on the text.<br />
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The other thing we did at the Chasm was to check out the weather forecast. This was important, as our plan was to camp the next night at Brinkley Bluff, one of the highest points in the West Macdonnel ranges, and the highest in the Chewing Range. By all accounts it would be both unpleasant and unsafe in a storm (lightning, and tent torn to shreds as there is nothing to block the winds for thousands of km). In addition, the descent is said to be tricky, and also likely unsafe in the wet. To our relief the prediction is that the next 48 hours should be OK, but after that record rains are forecast! We consider what to do: the worry is that after we have descended Brinkley Bluff and camped at Birthday Waterhole, we plan another high camp before descending to Hugh Gorge. We make an executive decision: if we can arrange transport (and luckily for us a friendly Queenlsalnd couple using the same company also decide to act on this intelligence ) we'll leave a little early from Birthday Waterhole. We'll then use the extra two days to hire a car, and make a lightning trip to Uluru and Kata Tjuta (Ayer's Rock and the Olgas) which none of us had seen. Some of us had been trying to persuade ourselves it was kind of cool to have been so close (by Australian standards - in fact 500km) to these icons without visiting, but I think when we decided to go, that we all thought it was the right decision!<br />
<br />
Anyhow, the next day and the most magnificent part of this truly splendid walk. First thing the weather looked a little grim, but we headed out to check out Stanley Chasm itself. The next photo is not a work of art, but it does give a good sense of the scale of the Chasm. Check out the tiny Paul, Kristie and Daniela!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-HxwdqCD/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-HxwdqCD/0/X3/_DSC9409%20Panorama-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
After that we headed out. We were all carrying 8-10 litres or so of water, as we needed water for the next day and for the camp, since none was expected on the tops. That meant pack weights in excess of 20 kg which makes for a bracing climb of 500m. As the wind and cloud got worse, Paul could be heard to mutter "North Wales. That's what this is like. I didn't emigrate to Australia so as to walk in North Wales!" But as we reached Bridle Path Lookout, the clouds lifted and vistas were revealed:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-9785GHb/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-9785GHb/0/X3/_DSC9444%20Panorama-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Soon the party found itself walking narrow ridges with spectacular views<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-K3SPNdf/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-K3SPNdf/0/X3/_DSC9496-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Here's Paul, about half an hour's pull from Brinkley Bluff:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-hgGFLbv/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-hgGFLbv/0/X3/_DSC9520-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
And here's Kristie, with Brinkley Bluff behind her. The scale in the photo, as in reality, is very misleading. The Bluff looks like a small knoll nearby. But in fact it's around a half hour away, five or ten minutes walk across, and has widely separated places for pitching tents.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-LHhPsHS/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-LHhPsHS/0/X3/_DSC9530%20Panorama-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
In the meantime, Daniela and Paul are taking the opportunity to look around before the final haul:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-mrWjRSQ/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-mrWjRSQ/0/X3/_DSC9517-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Here's Krisite, at the top<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-msGr6kP/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-msGr6kP/0/X3/_DSC9572-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
And here are Daniela and Paul celebrating at the trig point, while Kristie tries in vain to find some service so as to get a weather forecast in the background:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-KGg2ZHS/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-KGg2ZHS/0/X3/_DSC9580-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
We set up camp, and after sunset the alpenglow on the ranges whence we have come is glorious:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-72M7QWW/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-72M7QWW/0/X3/_DSC9605-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
The next morning we are all up before dawn to enjoy the peak in glorious weather. Here's the range off further than we will walk in the pre-dawn glow:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-QM2pnTQ/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-QM2pnTQ/0/X3/_DSC9617-Edit-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
And here, still before the sun actually rises, is the trig point. The pre-dawn wind blows the prayer flags someone has thoughtfully provided, no doubt further charming our trip with blessings!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-Tghf85F/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-Tghf85F/0/X3/_DSC9608-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
And then, the sun rises, revealing much of way we have come!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-vdh4FRr/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-vdh4FRr/0/X3/_DSC9655-Edit-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
In the other direction just after sunrise one of our party is spied exploring:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-FbJWXsm/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-FbJWXsm/0/X3/_DSC9675-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
And here's a selfie by Your Photographer before starting to break camp, stupidly still wearing his torch that was needed at pre-dawn:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-P2jbDz5/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-P2jbDz5/0/X3/_DSC9678-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
And, as we start to descend, here's a last view of the country in the harsher light of day. Glorious: but unforgiving.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-sGFjXFc/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-sGFjXFc/0/X3/_DSC9679-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
The descent is not nearly as hard as we had been told. It's soon clear why: we meet Tasmanian track workers who have rebuilt most of the track, so the descent is actually absolutely fine. It's a pleasant romp into Birthday Waterhole. When we hit the waterhole we explore a little and I take an opportunity to get a photo of the ubiquitous Ghost Gums: these eucalypts leave white powder on you if you brush past their trunks:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-grpxdRk/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-grpxdRk/0/X3/_DSC9696-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
When we get back to the shelter a truly mighty storm hits, and we are glad we have a constructed shelter! The next morning we - and the other party from Qld - are picked up and as we drive through Alice Springs the Todd river not only has water in it, but it's flooding the road! It's said that if you have seen water flow in the Todd River three times you are a local.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-hZ28vh4/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-hZ28vh4/0/X3/_DSC9732-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<b>Coda: Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park</b><br />
<br />
After some remarkably efficient shopping and preparation we all get in the hire car that Paul picks up from the airport and make our way to Uluru!<br />
<br />
We start to get faint glimpses of the rock, and with some slightly optimistic inprepretations of the scope of some of the "keep off" signs, we pull off and climb an amazing red sand dune, from which we all get our first sight of Uluru. There will be better pictures in this blog, but I don't think any of us will forget this first sighting:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-FgTmsH8/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-FgTmsH8/0/X3/_DSC9740-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
We then arrive at a hotel in the resort and try to find acceptable and affordable food. The next morning we head out to the Sunrise Viewing Platform. This is perhaps the most irritating thing about this park: you are forbidden from most places, not I think on sacredness grounds (except occasionally) but on tourist management grounds. So basically you can drive on bitumen roads and stop at designated viewing places and a few walks. Still, they are great views and great walks. We manage to escape the worst of the crowds at the Sunrise Viewing Platform, and find a probably legal much quieter and more interesting vantage point from which we see this:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-f227rXt/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-f227rXt/0/X3/_DSC9796-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
And as the sun rises further we get this, highlighting the ubiquitous Casuarinas in this part of the world:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-5Th3Xkh/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-5Th3Xkh/0/X3/_DSC9800-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
We then head to the Rock itself to do the 10km stroll around its base. Here are Paul and Daniela:<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-nWqGMKB/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-nWqGMKB/0/X3/_DSC9817-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
And here's an image which gives a sense of the scale of the thing; those trees are huge:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-PkBHq72/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-PkBHq72/0/X3/_DSC9820-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
This image shows the party as high on the Rock as is consistent with the wishes of its custodians:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-ZsKSp6D/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-ZsKSp6D/0/X3/_DSC9866-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
One of the amazing features of Uluru is the great vulval caves that cut into it. We soon came to realise that when you saw one of these, there would soon be a sign announcing a sacred Women's site:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-spxWwrr/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-spxWwrr/0/X3/_DSC9873-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
The waterholes and gorges at its base were also deeply affecting. Its easy to see why some of them count as sacred.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-wx8NKsX/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-wx8NKsX/0/X3/_DSC9894-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Some of these little gorges right in the base of the rock are really lush:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-TB6bSpw/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-TB6bSpw/0/X3/_DSC9927%20Panorama-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
We then made our way to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) and began with as much of the Valley of the Winds walk as was consistent with being at the Designated Dusk Viewing Place. As we walked up into it this amazing view presented itself:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-BDXXHHL/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-BDXXHHL/0/X3/_DSC9952-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
And as we left, the light was starting to do amazing things on the dome:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-xT7d846/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-xT7d846/0/X3/_DSC9960-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
We made it to the designated spot. The following photo resulted, but I fear it's rather like any decent postcard you can get taken from the Designated Spot!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.davidbraddonmitchell.com/Nature/Larapints/i-VDSg4Vg/A"><img alt="" src="https://photos.smugmug.com/Nature/Larapints/i-VDSg4Vg/0/X3/_DSC9995-Edit-X3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
A wonderful, wonderful trip. One of the very best. Thanks to all involved! And, dear readers, do go to the larapinta. It's absolutely wonderful. And if you are there, the coda is worth it as well.<br />
<br /></div>
</div>
DBMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02267044904600856553noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-90025544222926114522016-01-24T21:56:00.002+11:002016-02-01T12:19:51.559+11:00Packrafting Colo Gorge<style>
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</style> <b>SUBW</b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> 15-17 January 2015</span></b><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Our plan was to camp Friday night for
an early start and do two full days in the river, covering about 50km. For
reasons to be explained we ended up exiting after 28km at Bob Turner’s Track.
We had standard problems with people being delayed, but in the end
three of us ended up camping at the top of Canoe Creek Track, while Chris
arrived next morning. About the same time Dean appeared up the track, having arrived
first the evening before and spent the night in the excellent camping cave at
the bottom with another party. Finally united, we set off down the steep but
straightforward track at 8.00.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJJiNsBnHvuuRsR1Ck5gs5cBzSF1pzL3S_DM27xFSYTqSwfMJVqgbC06oQ7rpRLTclBN4D_xOudZPr6G8MQQhzsoHzjePeLKQB6WwI3lvv2YMY0ZBBW3-_ImrLRn0nctnP36FEFMSr-TvZ/s1600/P1160002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJJiNsBnHvuuRsR1Ck5gs5cBzSF1pzL3S_DM27xFSYTqSwfMJVqgbC06oQ7rpRLTclBN4D_xOudZPr6G8MQQhzsoHzjePeLKQB6WwI3lvv2YMY0ZBBW3-_ImrLRn0nctnP36FEFMSr-TvZ/s960/P1160002.jpg" width="960" /></a></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The flood gauge at
Upper Colo had been reading a miserable 1.18m when we left Sydney, but as we
came out above the river it was obvious it had come up substantially and the river looked be at an almost ideal height. Checking the gauge on our return we saw it was 1.67 when
we started paddling, peaked at 1.85 on Sunday morning and was still 1.79 when
we left the river. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilUf3TzkxAS9BJus058qfVAxaZfzZdIbr-6FevJHvLlNHfi8zVfMg4vnYBMV1PbHOcd59p2uY2uuc31_aDFUj5WwbVbsYQNoQYKMhs-CIkZyRNnIbXCmQpeAEwxxTNyBoYaYI1CLQswKKn/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-01-19+at+16.56.59+.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilUf3TzkxAS9BJus058qfVAxaZfzZdIbr-6FevJHvLlNHfi8zVfMg4vnYBMV1PbHOcd59p2uY2uuc31_aDFUj5WwbVbsYQNoQYKMhs-CIkZyRNnIbXCmQpeAEwxxTNyBoYaYI1CLQswKKn/s640/Screen+Shot+2016-01-19+at+16.56.59+.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It took about one and a half hours to walk down the Canoe Creek track to our first view of the river. </span> </span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br /></span>The walk<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> would be a struggle with canoes, but is an easy stroll with packrafts. Paul's pack in the picture below weighed 19kg including the boat and that was one of the heavier ones.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixUv0tvQG3Q2ylCO-jq85IVT90GyW8SzNeiDcmig_Um6cA2XonOCxCeV9gKaEKvox6Fn4ed_sKAxwsWYIF-Ff5Tzokz1EOeiYBdIirAO7KyhnSuI2tetZKDS9cZuRTvypCFeAQnOL7EcZn/s1600/P1160017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixUv0tvQG3Q2ylCO-jq85IVT90GyW8SzNeiDcmig_Um6cA2XonOCxCeV9gKaEKvox6Fn4ed_sKAxwsWYIF-Ff5Tzokz1EOeiYBdIirAO7KyhnSuI2tetZKDS9cZuRTvypCFeAQnOL7EcZn/s960/P1160017.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">At the river we unpacked and inflated
the rafts. This is an MRS Microraft rolled up:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8uEZtBUI1JO60Q6T2u0MCm_3gjXLsgGzmf6grWeFGGVLU4g1mZiDkymWM6EBQoqYvrZ_a1NVs8DGMXksvm7wqyZ9_FQAh127PH-m1bwdxyTCz71q-uR1Guqc4sDXj3gIkvJWvttwbcW1/s1600/P1230004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8uEZtBUI1JO60Q6T2u0MCm_3gjXLsgGzmf6grWeFGGVLU4g1mZiDkymWM6EBQoqYvrZ_a1NVs8DGMXksvm7wqyZ9_FQAh127PH-m1bwdxyTCz71q-uR1Guqc4sDXj3gIkvJWvttwbcW1/s960/P1230004.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">And this is her inflated and ready to go. This is the extended version of the MRS, which can used as a 2-person canoe without the spraydeck. So it is heavy for a packraft: 3.6Kg including spraydeck. Paddle is about 1kg and lifejacket 400g, so the whole package is 5kg. Lots of information about them <a href="http://www.packrafting-store.de/Packrafts/MRS-Microraft-with-removable-deck::608.html">here</a>.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9qbMktR4lKuKmbuvnA-kFzlHu7eCLlzj_73QIYqScp5zBPjsZXHqfT379hyphenhyphenazbOb_8d61cQdkq6N3F8nqb8xZWvCTZBZJBoPjNu9DMrbOb_opoAaAxp5Uc3ULEUGBbt25DUNFdJO0AbZV/s1600/P1160028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="960" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9qbMktR4lKuKmbuvnA-kFzlHu7eCLlzj_73QIYqScp5zBPjsZXHqfT379hyphenhyphenazbOb_8d61cQdkq6N3F8nqb8xZWvCTZBZJBoPjNu9DMrbOb_opoAaAxp5Uc3ULEUGBbt25DUNFdJO0AbZV/s960/P1160028.jpg" width="720" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The SUBW fleet consisted of three proper packrafts, a pair of MRS
Extended Microrafts and an Alpacka Scout, and two cheap inflatables, the Mighty
Seahawk (usually $69, but bought on special for $57) and the Mightbe Zambesi ($37). </span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtqwCELuqOVCqrnt_o5I5SdyG4Hoxfb8YBFZ6MPWVuEYFm-Pz2hUZTMqSmOkkcGFE1I12FzXZyytUbwYJY2tDb9Aew8kuMXQf0-37tOfCLtZPJ-Fp96epiX7jra7rV9M9UwU1mpJlP816m/s1600/P1160038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtqwCELuqOVCqrnt_o5I5SdyG4Hoxfb8YBFZ6MPWVuEYFm-Pz2hUZTMqSmOkkcGFE1I12FzXZyytUbwYJY2tDb9Aew8kuMXQf0-37tOfCLtZPJ-Fp96epiX7jra7rV9M9UwU1mpJlP816m/s960/P1160038.jpg" width="960" /></a></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
contrast between these two cheapies was instructive. The Intex Seahawk was robust, did
not get a a single puncture, and handled the rapids as well as the proper
packrafts. This was in large part due to it’s captain, Glenn, who was the most
experienced paddler in the group. Nevertheless, it looked as if it would be OK
in a class II rapid with anyone confident on board. The Zambesi, on the other
hand, was little more than a pool toy. All credit to Dean for the performance
he got out of it, but it was totally incapable of carrying a person and pack
down a rapid intact and it was more like a lilo trip for Dean! It also
punctured whenever it saw a branch and by Sunday afternoon was richly decorated
with Tyvek tape. </span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">By 10.00 the mighty Suboir fleet had set sail, dominating the quiet waters of the Colo as thoroughly as the imperial fleet of the eunuch Zheng He once dominated the Pacific!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1j5ESRZl3QQYt0TsxJr0UowK0rTf00FlnkdoYTmSWQHTplIv2H8z50ANzXA9358FIhLM3jCFxi8SXW7ui-m_pV0GQGCYeitFPbBvKFuPE-lupaMux1XBkum3lqfGwAlcCrlNbuWyxJa2D/s1600/P1160047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1j5ESRZl3QQYt0TsxJr0UowK0rTf00FlnkdoYTmSWQHTplIv2H8z50ANzXA9358FIhLM3jCFxi8SXW7ui-m_pV0GQGCYeitFPbBvKFuPE-lupaMux1XBkum3lqfGwAlcCrlNbuWyxJa2D/s960/P1160047.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We soon
encountered our first rapid, one of the larger ones we would see that day and
more like a III than a II. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqAhdDlEjJZZCmiJvtM0mL3NgzBIiGR62Cszcq9Qy_kN8GgFQguaQMIRTIclUJycoDPEjxarA9TkimMSWlHa3YcUr9Nggz9ekCAt75IQZzUU885nN6zJYQ_vF6QvQ4yw66TWFtHMv4tiWV/s1600/P1160062.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqAhdDlEjJZZCmiJvtM0mL3NgzBIiGR62Cszcq9Qy_kN8GgFQguaQMIRTIclUJycoDPEjxarA9TkimMSWlHa3YcUr9Nggz9ekCAt75IQZzUU885nN6zJYQ_vF6QvQ4yw66TWFtHMv4tiWV/s960/P1160062.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">After some scouting from the bank Tim set off in his
MRS and got through without a problem. Here is a nice series of shots taken in sports mode:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4p7T5PG43iKVLGJcxGc_TTh8QgAOv62TXG-9ftwR89AGXv938sp275xdsZ_xH-ZeMgC713PavZZMJ94wSFlJSZkvKg-BlxvC3Z2qj7qReOqhebyglnKzfeRg-1hGUqz8mzw8Yz2LiC_CH/s1600/P1160065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4p7T5PG43iKVLGJcxGc_TTh8QgAOv62TXG-9ftwR89AGXv938sp275xdsZ_xH-ZeMgC713PavZZMJ94wSFlJSZkvKg-BlxvC3Z2qj7qReOqhebyglnKzfeRg-1hGUqz8mzw8Yz2LiC_CH/s960/P1160065.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijwnJZoo-LOWoeEg1mLiZ14QxtI0eS_8xuISFS4AuOn9dybKqDElwsLHriwZyOItzyhQuH2LMTz1Gzl6GytJbSdvEGW3oT3yZLg2JFUK1pvLXyJETdKl5Sev_TNXcEGrhNe8pS3kIw9EIH/s1600/P1160070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijwnJZoo-LOWoeEg1mLiZ14QxtI0eS_8xuISFS4AuOn9dybKqDElwsLHriwZyOItzyhQuH2LMTz1Gzl6GytJbSdvEGW3oT3yZLg2JFUK1pvLXyJETdKl5Sev_TNXcEGrhNe8pS3kIw9EIH/s960/P1160070.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh43Xq7-gXBUVo23BydlIjXVVlXk-m1c2rp2scxnvSJj9ejRrcmIay-jAsmo2r06DupSiGb-sn-Vs7DFwH3gPTGkMDVMwJ4GVIPGvN5IhCqRscNf_aSJQo-hBgw2oXj3DAJaqom3UxyV_qg/s1600/P1160071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh43Xq7-gXBUVo23BydlIjXVVlXk-m1c2rp2scxnvSJj9ejRrcmIay-jAsmo2r06DupSiGb-sn-Vs7DFwH3gPTGkMDVMwJ4GVIPGvN5IhCqRscNf_aSJQo-hBgw2oXj3DAJaqom3UxyV_qg/s960/P1160071.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBZS8Tk3nkz7JBLGWuT1xsoHBy5qoGnznvU9H7Qn7O3SqS5BnhA-qqVHXtoH3wqIA4a4fJV2ir9UuL9h2B-33hMd_9BQNjezMFXQ8oDbNJ4DMjZINuZC3Qf8xdneKDvosxiVeShiIds-z-/s1600/P1160076.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBZS8Tk3nkz7JBLGWuT1xsoHBy5qoGnznvU9H7Qn7O3SqS5BnhA-qqVHXtoH3wqIA4a4fJV2ir9UuL9h2B-33hMd_9BQNjezMFXQ8oDbNJ4DMjZINuZC3Qf8xdneKDvosxiVeShiIds-z-/s960/P1160076.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEK564cNulMZof-334NTbgwYbbOdWU7muF0dHMKv8MuwZBKgb31J6n8PeFvLkjqNlLUO1MKlhBai1Ngu03BMSTptdLJjSKNUm96jGXNz9AHqelOMGYUqHHGkMq3vSTob4EcEwnBZEFPqna/s1600/P1160077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEK564cNulMZof-334NTbgwYbbOdWU7muF0dHMKv8MuwZBKgb31J6n8PeFvLkjqNlLUO1MKlhBai1Ngu03BMSTptdLJjSKNUm96jGXNz9AHqelOMGYUqHHGkMq3vSTob4EcEwnBZEFPqna/s960/P1160077.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha7Y4RyT_T-ickHIdrjwCJdQ_E61uYtYwxVuaDsq-R7Ym4HdBkNREF-uHWGANsx6TF2eZlbGrmBctNrv7HVsZnEER04o5Jf3-JT2u0Z2B1kqazDT21Rv5O6PadMtpDh-SBdowlngdHUgeK/s1600/P1160080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha7Y4RyT_T-ickHIdrjwCJdQ_E61uYtYwxVuaDsq-R7Ym4HdBkNREF-uHWGANsx6TF2eZlbGrmBctNrv7HVsZnEER04o5Jf3-JT2u0Z2B1kqazDT21Rv5O6PadMtpDh-SBdowlngdHUgeK/s960/P1160080.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvmhtAofxiqY3ZB-RQ_Yt64K7ahlJJKtggB-sUDGVhIXFXU2-7FiZ1vssmTmfBtGiobEBkvSJKOHzIgkmJqOZZzZzbesOFbulRjRgC47vWG1YsuHHdhHLzm1Ewpz6B4N34Zc8qDdgnqLjP/s1600/P1160082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvmhtAofxiqY3ZB-RQ_Yt64K7ahlJJKtggB-sUDGVhIXFXU2-7FiZ1vssmTmfBtGiobEBkvSJKOHzIgkmJqOZZzZzbesOFbulRjRgC47vWG1YsuHHdhHLzm1Ewpz6B4N34Zc8qDdgnqLjP/s960/P1160082.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisTHg27pnHc2Pyfp5AW7v9UknKHRz6lftJMzS7YVCVjunBcRFco4cKJf2CT-cALAcswydb1aRnCGrEudMqLOICSomGTtPNnc3pAKno4_Tg4oeVpNDJCZiPAW1e4ix5JBKziWfhx8UgKL01/s1600/P1160095.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisTHg27pnHc2Pyfp5AW7v9UknKHRz6lftJMzS7YVCVjunBcRFco4cKJf2CT-cALAcswydb1aRnCGrEudMqLOICSomGTtPNnc3pAKno4_Tg4oeVpNDJCZiPAW1e4ix5JBKziWfhx8UgKL01/s960/P1160095.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Paul followed, also in an MRS, got stuck
on a rock on the last drop and capsized, fortunately at the very bottom of the
rapid. Glenn and Chris came through OK and Dean portaged. The difference
between the MRS rafts with spraydecks and the open Seahawk and Alpacka was
immediately apparent. However well handled, the open rafts ended up full to the
brim and had to be brought ashore and emptied after each rapid. You can see these later efforts in this film, taken by Tim:</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The day then settled into very
satisfying pattern, a kilometre or so of glassy paddling with sandstone cliffs
towering hundreds of metres above us on either side, punctuated by occasional
waterfalls, then the distant noise of the next rapid and a line of boulders
appearing across the river. At each rapid a bit of scouting, then a couple of
minutes of excitement for each of us, and then some cleaning up before resuming
our travels. We lost count of the number of rapids, but there were something
like fifteen before we reached the junction of the Wollongambe that evening.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It soon became clear that we were
travelling slower than we had hoped. The Mightbe Zambesi was more inclined to
turn circles than move forward. We tried swapping paddles, shunting it along from
behind, and eventually towing, but the Zambesi (and its tug) were still falling
hundreds of metres behind the other rafts on each reach. Portaging was also a
major delay. Compared to the five minutes or so required to scout and run a
rapid, it took an about 30m to complete a portage. We had two people portaging,
as the limitations of the Alpacka Scout became apparent on about the third
rapid, where Chris had a really nasty spill, coming out early and bouncing off
a few rocks on the way down. Alpacka are the original and best packraft makers,
and the Scout is a robust little boat, but it weighs in at 1.6kg rather than
the 3kg of a standard packraft, and this is reflected in its buoyancy. It’s
designed for river and lake crossing and explicitly rated only for Class I rapids.
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Worse still, Chris’s paddle had
disappeared somewhere in the rapid and was showing no signs of emerging. This
led Glenn to carry out the day’s major act of heroics. Confident that he had
seen where the paddle disappeared, he worked his way out from the side of the
rapid with Paul and Dean holding him against the flow on a rope, hooked the
paddle out with one foot and hurled it back to the bank with an elegant javelin
throw. We had intended to bring a spare paddle, but this had already been
handed to the person </span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">who had <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">left his in Sydney</i></span> (unnamed here as an act of mercy).<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"></i> In any case, on the basis of our experiences in
this trip I’d bring more than one spare for a group of five next time. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSg69sW5F3R2t_IRW3ic5_naQmZ0cUFk6-d8R27u6GNIsDUIRRSX3aMuDX8JJkm7MkI6iO3l8GmQ8rIRhRdNtvDm7ugbKhRcqhhcvjp3tHudejBlXH2SrvjlNydP7_48lwSkR_Qb3QV50P/s1600/P1160137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSg69sW5F3R2t_IRW3ic5_naQmZ0cUFk6-d8R27u6GNIsDUIRRSX3aMuDX8JJkm7MkI6iO3l8GmQ8rIRhRdNtvDm7ugbKhRcqhhcvjp3tHudejBlXH2SrvjlNydP7_48lwSkR_Qb3QV50P/s960/P1160137.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Paddle recovered, we continued
downriver, hoping to reach the Wollangambe junction, where Glenn remembered
extensive sand flats to camp on. We tried various measures to speed up our
progress, such as shifting Dean’s pack from the Mightbe Zambesi to Tim’s raft,
and towing the two open rafts through rapids whilst Dean and Chris portaged
without their boats. Late in the afternoon Paul broke his paddle in a rapid.
leaving him with<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>very long, single-ended
paddle. This actually worked surprisingly well – the length of the handle made
it much more effective that a normal T-bar single-ended paddle. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It was 7.00 before we saw the
Wollangambe pouring in from the right-hand side. Predictably, the area had been
reshaped by floods and sandbanks were in short supply, but a little scouting
around revealed a sand bench a few metres above the river where, with a little
digging, we could squeeze in five people. We could see the river rising and
wondered what it would be like next morning. We were all pretty tired, so we
ate a quick meal and retired for the night.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMltGjBDcooGjaKq__kA_zmAMj1Dy1CfWK9ktOYbDxi1gQoU8gObK19RbtG8QoZVL57ELN-e98FlMKN1gmZDDvrX92iX319ijtg_8KWHCCar1Z_sprSt9qrGz5pBYk-oWiYkxQ9X9p0Nlv/s1600/24081912189_fbc6b62752_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMltGjBDcooGjaKq__kA_zmAMj1Dy1CfWK9ktOYbDxi1gQoU8gObK19RbtG8QoZVL57ELN-e98FlMKN1gmZDDvrX92iX319ijtg_8KWHCCar1Z_sprSt9qrGz5pBYk-oWiYkxQ9X9p0Nlv/s960/24081912189_fbc6b62752_o.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Sunday dawned bright and sunny and we
were soon heading off down what was now a much wider river. Overnight Glenn had cut the rowlocks of the Mighty Seahawk as they get in the way when paddling.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDE_46sFOjnmVRALBvgQY99-Ma9R7hcEc03od874BgzlVv5dskYlC10OGyOyk1f2jBbSD5flrqoGq_ehQQglhHhv0mozMZRU1WLktAKoPjFZtwlm1LhY_QAk19AgEpl0xE7HHoZBtj-Rqb/s1600/P1170215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDE_46sFOjnmVRALBvgQY99-Ma9R7hcEc03od874BgzlVv5dskYlC10OGyOyk1f2jBbSD5flrqoGq_ehQQglhHhv0mozMZRU1WLktAKoPjFZtwlm1LhY_QAk19AgEpl0xE7HHoZBtj-Rqb/s960/P1170215.jpg" width="960" /></a></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">As well as
accommodating the combined flow of the Colo and Wollangambe, the valley itself
was now wider, with less towering cliffs and more forested slopes. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0JjRHKsJzRI7kCKEhFJFsZQR2ptrnSFn5Duwt61QwJe8g1_6EZ8Aj0aMIfHt3bnNbnSv2yzdrq5j6R6PPW9uqAeo-TWWlMuFENyq4XdPfyvFbzrgcqjj9kEYUhkzQysLXHJYYJm1jGIjT/s1600/P1170220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0JjRHKsJzRI7kCKEhFJFsZQR2ptrnSFn5Duwt61QwJe8g1_6EZ8Aj0aMIfHt3bnNbnSv2yzdrq5j6R6PPW9uqAeo-TWWlMuFENyq4XdPfyvFbzrgcqjj9kEYUhkzQysLXHJYYJm1jGIjT/s960/P1170220.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The first,
long reach was a delight with fast moving water and little class I rapids to
speed us on our way. Nevertheless, after the first rapid we decided that we
would definitely be pulling out at Bob Turner’s Track, which would mean
hitching to fetch a car, so Tim and Glenn raced on ahead to get the car shuffle
under way. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfq4AwrrM_rMDHQoQKHJAwFaM5tftWbFgDbeThNlVojmIYtzi-sVmqiuLkqek20hYkhdX9YtagsMhiOifVbfxFbyT_qhOooW1bE7CVLtSBHikB0IM9bGwEjrYpEAEfuFeUYkuxtueOa-sl/s1600/P1170224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfq4AwrrM_rMDHQoQKHJAwFaM5tftWbFgDbeThNlVojmIYtzi-sVmqiuLkqek20hYkhdX9YtagsMhiOifVbfxFbyT_qhOooW1bE7CVLtSBHikB0IM9bGwEjrYpEAEfuFeUYkuxtueOa-sl/s960/P1170224.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Both the fast and slow parties sensibly
decided to portage past the King Rapid</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">. This is at least Class IV and probably needs higher water
to make it runnable at all. It’s an impressive sight, falling perhaps 10m in
about 100m through giant boulders. At the bottom the racing water
performs a full circle, carving out a decent sized circular lake with a little
sand island with casuarinas in the middle, before heading off at ninety degree
to it’s original direction of travel. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6BAbPXKUAb5251LqMNYBNNSjhnAEBRqXzaf5WSsgO-1x0eo3EhPGzrf5ewYw3uDdlH6zKLv3SM8MiESOdFtfNuAvW0LC88kMZOBCArjuGuFVESJ4Nz3LzBOX1s9qbt8jToIHBKtLqMHJ2/s1600/P1170227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6BAbPXKUAb5251LqMNYBNNSjhnAEBRqXzaf5WSsgO-1x0eo3EhPGzrf5ewYw3uDdlH6zKLv3SM8MiESOdFtfNuAvW0LC88kMZOBCArjuGuFVESJ4Nz3LzBOX1s9qbt8jToIHBKtLqMHJ2/s960/P1170227.jpg" width="1340" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">That morning we found the best solution to the Zambesi problem, inspired
by the fact that Paul now had only half a paddle. We strapped the two rafts
together with one person paddling each side, which worked so well that despite
portaging the rapids we made decent time and arrived only a couple of hours
after Tim and Glenn.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqffpBLDaphFIJQwarlfNUe-4F1g0li4J5Jd-eXP4bZRd-uA9OJMdjKxAebqJfOg2fRPnGLO9ebp-niLrFXfYAyU3j870sDXdo-uglDskAPZXq0ZCmu8DGsuDW-QDcriNMsX9RxUWMTM_U/s1600/P1170232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="720" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqffpBLDaphFIJQwarlfNUe-4F1g0li4J5Jd-eXP4bZRd-uA9OJMdjKxAebqJfOg2fRPnGLO9ebp-niLrFXfYAyU3j870sDXdo-uglDskAPZXq0ZCmu8DGsuDW-QDcriNMsX9RxUWMTM_U/s960/P1170232.jpg" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">That's Chris portaging around the King Rapid. Portaging in this part of the river is miserable and to be avoided at all costs. It means climbing over large boulders through dense water gums, scratching both yourself and the equipment. It's at least 30m delay at each rapid. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">After the King Rapid there are some
long reaches, but just three more substantial rapids, II or II+, before the
Bob Turner Track. The Mighty Seahawk is put to the test on one of these in this movie:</span><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dw1v0ot6UAt02f4CIbl6Fhom-GdElvgIMmo_NZlv1u2yU6MSwHTs5gHm9L3bGJYAX0rVcBipM76hfdugiiyeQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The slow party arrived at the bottom of Bob Turner's Track at 5.00, where we found a family picknicking - the first people we had seen since Canoe Creek. Paul is hiding the fact that he only has three sections of his four-section paddle behind that rucksack. The helpful people at <a href="http://www.packrafting-store.de/index.php">Packrafting-Store</a> have since agreed to send a replacement blade, which is a lot better than buying a whole new one.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">After a feed and
packing up our rafts we started slogging up the hill on the well-made track around 6.00. </span>We
met a wild dog – not very wild, as it started following us - and near the top we
suddenly heard music – was this the spirit of the bush we wondered? No – it was Tim walking
down the track to meet us with his bluetooth iphone speakers. He dropped us back at the our cars and after a few farewells we were away down the Putty Road in
the gathering dusk. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Packraft + Colo Gorge = classic trip.
Highly recommended, but to be taken seriously. Here is some of the debris left by others that we found and took out with us. </span><br />
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Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-51691049124246223372015-11-16T23:34:00.000+11:002015-11-16T23:55:31.044+11:00Scotland and Iceland in the Summer<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
What a tragedy; there were a few days between work engagements in Scotland and Iceland this summer. So forced to take some leave. Ah well, so it must be time for the Sons to do some bushwalking, or whatever it is called in those places.<br />
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The first destination was the Isle of Skye, where your blogger met up with a co-author and spent a few days there writing in the mornings and heading out into the wilderness afterwards.</div>
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Our first destination was the tiny loch in Coir Lagan; the lock is about 700 metres up in a tiny corrie - a kind of flat high valley surrounded by some of the most the impressive peaks of the Black Cuillin.</div>
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This is not a great picture, but look out on the left for David Plunkett, tiny blue figure, who will give some scale to it.</div>
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Next break was to be on the north-east of the island, where there is a rather mysterious set of rock formations called The Quirang where a massive ridge is very eroded. The weather was remarkably good and we headed off in good spirits to be greeted by some impressive views:<br />
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This last was taken just before your blogger slipped and fell about halfway down the slope you can see. No damage done, just a lot of mud and bruises. After dusting myself off though, the weather turned and rain and mist came in eliminating visibility. Plunkett was up at the top of the range, in the thickest mist, and there was no point trying to attain it. Waiting would be best policy, though it was wet and cold enough that I thought heading to the car might be best bet, as I couldn't be sure that he wouldn't go there by a different route from the top given the conditions. However, just as I was thinking this, the mist lifted and Plunkett emerged:<br />
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He ia the tiny blue dot in the middle, soon much more visible in the changeable mist:<br />
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We took the time to explore some of the strange formations given the weather had improved, and sure enough we were well rewarded for doing so:<br />
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One of the strange things for an Australian, is that these countries don't have wilderness in our sense; their landscapes are formed even more profoundly by human use than ours (pace Flannery) and they still are used - on our way back to the car we were treated by an amazing sheep dog demonstration in the valley below:<br />
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Can you spot the two Border Collies?<br />
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The next walk was a trudge in the pelting rain down a too well made for my liking path along a valley starting at Sligachan. But when we left the path and headed into a corrie contains the Bloody Stone the walk improved. Said stone is where, allegedly, a McLeod massacred almost all MacDonalds. Must have missed some given the fast food situation. A Skye tradition seems to be to interrogate tourists about any possible Scottish ancestry. Since I have a great-aunt McLeod there was much ho hoing from the MacDomalds whose house we had rented. Here is said stone:<br />
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The final walk of the trip that we managed to fit in was an ascent of Beinn Na Cro, a wonderful Red Cuillin with spectacular views of its red cousins. This photo is taken maybe twenty metres from the summit, where the wind conditions we so severe that we almost thought better of those twenty metres.<br />
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That unfortunately was it for Scotland, both work wise and walk wise. On to Iceland. The next picture comes from just outside our conference venue, which was in a thermal lava field.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">Soon enough and the conference was over, and it was time to again head out into the wilderness. This time two of us had booked the Laugavegur, allegedly Iceland's greatest multi day walk. But the day before we were to head out, we were told it was </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">closed: massive unseasonal snow. Would have been tricky as the huts had been booked out a year in advance and we only had one hut booking for the four nights, and weren't really equipped for snow camping. Or indeed had we hired snow shoes it would</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;"> </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">have been much slower going, and we didn't have the time.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">We oped instead for the Fimmvörðuháls, a remarkable crossing of the pass between two great glaciers, the </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">Eyjafjallajökull</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;"> glacier that covers the volcano that disrupted so much air traffic only a few years ago, and the even</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;"> </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">more impressive </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;"> </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">Mýrdalsjökull</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">. There is a hut midway that is a first come first serve kind of place.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">Well we started off at </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">Skógar</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;"> after a night at a typically Icelandic hotel (think InTourist) and started the steep climb up to the saddle. It's amazing. You'll get bored if I post photo after photo of astonishing</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;"> </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">waterfalls, but hey </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">were jus unrelenting. Here is the first where the </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">Skógar river crashes down to the coastal plain:</span><br />
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<span style="color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">And here is another, randomly chosen as the first that reveals we are reaching snow country</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Once we were on the high plateau it became a bit navigationally challenging to find the hut in the snow. We were fine, of course, but we had the GPS coordinates. The woman at the parks centre had been blithely telling a couple of tourists that there was no</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"> </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">problem, it was a romp, no need for a map or a GPS. Hmm. Likely so when there's no snow and you can see a path, but not in these</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"> </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">conditions (and there are some fun and slightly hairy bits to come that I hope those poor guys handled)</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">But soon we found this massive cairn, which showed us the way:</span><br />
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<span style="color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">Next photo is not so exciting, but I can't resist toilets in wild places, and this one is on a patch of freshly congealed lava that is kept snow free by thermal activity!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">The next day was snowing and sleeting fairly consistently, and I'm ashamed to say that not having brought the right kind of camera condom (I am now equipped) I kept mine safely stowed away. But luckily Kristie was made of tougher stuff and kept hers out, and some of these are hers, some mine with her equipment, and the next one from a friendly walker. (all processed by yours truly though).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">The biggest difficulty of the next day is something called Hell Ridge, which connects two volcanos. You can get some sense of the terrain here:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">Here is the ridge itself, there's no real sense of scale. It plugs down 700 metres or so on either side at maybe 60 degrees. The safest way to approach it is to climb down to the line of snow you can </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">see banked up on the right hand side, and use where that has been compressed by walkers into a 50cm wide path. All doable, but I would have liked to have had an ice-axe. A slight slip and you'd be</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;"> </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">down that slope and turned to jelly, but it would be an easy self-arrest if we had been equipped.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">Here's a happy walker having made it across (and on the the first walk since major knee surgery for, amongst other things, a snapped ACL which made stability on the crossing a challenge:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">Soon we were rewarded with views across to </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">Mýrdalsjökull; those laval flow valleys are over a thousand metres down:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 12px;">As we got closer to the end at Thórsmörk, there were fantastic sights until the very end. Here I am pointing some out!</span><br />
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Well that was it for walking: but one last trip was interesting. There's a volcano called Thrihnukagigur, which hasn't erupted for 4000 years. But for some reason the magma chamber is empty - the magma for sucked back into the earth somehow whilst still hot after an eruption. As a result it's possible to go down a narrow shaft and descend 200m into the magma chamber! We couldn't resist! An old window cleaning lift has been pressed into service to lower people. Here's one of us excited by the massive coloured chamber:</div>
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DBMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02267044904600856553noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-17751761539180342762015-10-20T12:12:00.001+11:002015-10-25T12:24:50.720+11:00Newnes weekend - Starlight and Pipeline CanyonThe Wolgan Valley runs north east from the Dividing Range into the heart of the Wollemi wilderness. Numerous creeks rise on the Newnes Plateau east of Lithgow and run into the Wolgan River. A steep pass uses a series of switchbacks to bring the road from Lithgow down into the valley. It's in good condition because the Emirates One and Only Resort clients do not want to damage the undersides of their BMWs on the way to a weekend of pampering. Beyond the resort the road change to dirt and eventually runs out at Newnes, once a small town serving the oil shale mine and refinery that worked here until the 1940s, but now reduced to some industrial ruins and the Old Newnes Hotel, which operates as a campsite and bush cabin business.<br />
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Nature has reclaimed the valley, which is both beautiful and full of wildlife. Eastern Greys predominate in the first, farmed part of the valley, but around Newnes there are large numbers of Red-necked Wallabies, as well as Wallaroos and a few Swamp Wallabies. Marty reported innumerable roos on the road when driving in at dusk. I arrived much later, having been working in Melbourne that day, so my problem was wombats. One wombat just stood in the road and stared at me. The situation was too complicated for him to figure out, so eventually I drove slowly around him.<br />
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Old Newnes Hotel with resident wombat:<br />
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The next morning we were off about 08.00, along the river and up the Pipeline track which once connected Newnes to another oil shale plant in the Capertee valley. I'd had a cold all week and was very short of breath. It was also very hot - the day reached 30C - so we were all feeling the heat. It was a full two hours before we were 300m above the river at the lookout.<br />
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After a break we walked on to the watershed between the Wolgan and Capertee valleys, where NPWS has placed a sign explaining the bats of Starlight Canyon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8c67DA1XQwy9pwBtrrReWAxq-I6VMrbIpcvTrCYJDO9GeydWYWqApKktcSBFb0kBOGvgZ0xpmo1vqe4Vv1IZSj0Z03EpqiJmJPxxBHE2s6gvjcVRu2Glqy2RgvsWWsQyA0YEzW4RKbQfY/s1600/070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8c67DA1XQwy9pwBtrrReWAxq-I6VMrbIpcvTrCYJDO9GeydWYWqApKktcSBFb0kBOGvgZ0xpmo1vqe4Vv1IZSj0Z03EpqiJmJPxxBHE2s6gvjcVRu2Glqy2RgvsWWsQyA0YEzW4RKbQfY/s400/070.jpg" width="400" /></a>A clear track runs along the ridge for a couple of kilometres until you are above the creek of Starlight to the North and East. <a href="http://sonsofthedesert-abushwalkingblog.blogspot.com.au/2015/04/donkey-mountain-and-starlight-canyon.html">Last time we were here</a> we followed the track to the end and found a series of abseil anchors that took us too far down Starlight, beyond the tunnel. We still could not find a clear track leading to the correct abseil, but located it from a GPS reference. Perhaps everyone now enters the creek higher up without abseiling? The creek below looked cool and inviting, and it was now very hot indeed. We had all drunk far more water than usual, but were nevertheless starting to feel a bit dehydrated. <br />
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The creekbed was much cooler, but completely dry. We found water at each of the waterfalls, but at the bottom it always disappeared into dry sand. We soon arrived at the entrance to the tunnel section, where the creek disappears underground.<br />
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Tim heading down the hole.<br />
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Me getting on the rope... and off down the hole:<br />
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...and half way down the hole:<br />
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Marty at the entrance to the tunnel section:<br />
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This is a typical bit of the tunnel section with flash:<br />
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and here the same with redlight, which we were using to let us see the glowworms. The shining patches on the wall are some organism which lives on bat guano!<br />
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The sloping walls of the tunnel are covered in glowworms and their irregular patterns resemble the stars in the night sky. It's impossible to do justice to it, but this is what happens when you put a camera on the ground, pointing up. A few 'stars' are visible on the right.<br />
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Looking up with flash - the crack goes up perhaps 20m in places.<br />
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After 300m the canyon emerges into a normal constriction.<br />
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Shortly afterward you emerge into a particularly pretty open canyon, with good coachwoods, ferns and cliff-faces.<br />
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We walked through the open canyon for perhaps 500m, admiring the scenery.<br />
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This brought us to the final abseil, where the canyon emerges through the cliffline around 100m above the level of the river. Something weird happened with the panorama setting on my camera, but I think it gives quite a nice impression of the place, and Marty on the final abseil:<br />
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From here it is important to avoid the creekbed, which is choked with huge boulders. Staying up on the left bank we were at the river in less than half an hour, splashed across and began the 6km slog back to the campsite. We were back around 18.00, so the whole trip took 9.5hrs, largely due to my lungs being full of the residue of my cold, making me short of breath every time we hit an incline.<br />
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There is no cellphone reception at Newnes, but Tim contacted some friends who have a shack in the hills using VHF radio, and they very hospitably invited us up for a beer around the fire and a hot shower. It's an amazing spot for a weekender!<br />
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Just after we went to bed Elizabeth arrived, having had to work Saturday, and we all settled down to rest before another day in the hills.<br />
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<b>Sunday: Pipeline Canyon </b><br />
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A southerly change came through overnight, but it was still quite warm over breakfast and the flies were dreadful as we walked up the Pipeline track again. I was feeling much better - mountain air and the spiritual refreshment of the bush. On Monday I was shocked how bad the air smelled as I crossed King St, Newtown on the way to work - simply poisonous. Just as we reached the lookout the temperature dropped again and a stiff wind came through. We enjoyed brushing the flies off each other's backs and watching them blow off helplessly into the void! <br />
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The lookout was a very different place at 16C instead of 30C the day before. The good side of the colder weather was that it was the last we saw of bush flies that day!<br />
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Continuing towards the watershed we easily found the turn off to Pipeline canyon and a few minutes later we were at the first abseil in the tributary creek. This is Elizabeth belaying Marty on the second abseil.<br />
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The third abseil follows immediately, with a slightly dodgy anchor off a tree root. There is another anchor high on the right. Clearly people combine these
two drops by scrambling along the ledges on the left to reach this
anchor. <br />
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The higher anchor would also avoid having wet tree roosts between your legs all the way to the ground!<br />
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The fourth abseil drops into Pipeline Canyon proper. <br />
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It's a green and mossy canyon, with wading much of the way.<br />
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The canyon slot gets deeper as it approaches the main abseil, which has a slightly dodgy anchor on a faggot of logs buried in the sand behind a boulder. There is no obvious alternative:<br />
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This abseil drops into a deep, water sculpted room where, sadly, a full swim was unavoidable. Only Elizabeth wore a wetsuit - the rest of us just complained to keep warm.<br />
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The nicest part of the constriction follows, with a couple of short abseils leading to the canyon mouth.<br />
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The final abseil, out of the mouth of the canyon, has a very tricky start because the anchor is set far off to one side. There's a big boulder, undercut at the back, right in front of the abseil and it would be possible to build an anchor on this with a few metres of tape. Once again, my panorama function did something weird. Is this only when I photograph Marty abseiling?<br />
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Once out of the canyon we changed into dry clothes and had lunch.<br />
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We left camp at 08.30 and it was now 15.00. We chose Pipeline because it's short trip and would leave plenty of time to drive back to Sydney. From the end of the canyon about 750m on a narrow track along the cliffline brings you back to the Pipeline track and home. We would have been back in camp by 16.00, but a nameless canyoner decided to drop a bag. Here is Marty pointing to the bag lying 100m below in the valley, and Tim taking a GPS fix to help recover it later.<br />
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Even with recovering the bag and other messing about, we were packed up and on the road home by 18.00. During the bag recovery I had a lovely close encounter with a wombat. He was obviously very habituated to humans and ignored me until I could wait no longer and had to walk past him. Even then he only took three steps off the track! Later I had a lovely view of an echidna, but I had put the camera away by then. The Newnes wildlife is absolutely first-rate.<br />
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A great weekend away - and thanks to everyone else for putting up with my invalid pace. Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-10536991994399212612015-09-19T16:49:00.001+10:002015-09-20T10:11:35.386+10:00Mt Hay (Butterbox) canyon a second time<style>
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</style> <span lang="EN-US">I joined four other members of SUBW for</span><span lang="EN-US"> the first canyon of spring We met for a hearty breakfast in Leura and were on the track a
little after 10.00. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhivhs3hg3olCgYTROZMHGFJowNABq5JhM72VpXfJ1oudQJXRieICechL7JlLZ9xG7-SbSxuHnQ885EB9LI9t9nyi0gLf5BpKo7pwanzAFo23cXBBNM9MRDwapoL5CBjD-8FDo2h1YkkJsX/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhivhs3hg3olCgYTROZMHGFJowNABq5JhM72VpXfJ1oudQJXRieICechL7JlLZ9xG7-SbSxuHnQ885EB9LI9t9nyi0gLf5BpKo7pwanzAFo23cXBBNM9MRDwapoL5CBjD-8FDo2h1YkkJsX/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Since my last visit in June NPWS has installed a big
explanatory sign about the canyon, and has signposted a new entrance track avoiding the swamp. This brings you exactly to the short drop into the creek,
where there is a nice new fixed rope to climb down.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0u9Il9xdS7CEBR-oov3dNyaUAwH2lrWrO84wl-7Sl8izeYQaAZmltHcx-HnByYw-RjTUcH67Gr_d1RbACnjZQD6PHhVy_Xyr1_QCP9IAdGEyBSHTRbwcp2Qb6OTrGomGF5Q9t8JwBiJR/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0u9Il9xdS7CEBR-oov3dNyaUAwH2lrWrO84wl-7Sl8izeYQaAZmltHcx-HnByYw-RjTUcH67Gr_d1RbACnjZQD6PHhVy_Xyr1_QCP9IAdGEyBSHTRbwcp2Qb6OTrGomGF5Q9t8JwBiJR/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon02.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">It was a beautiful day – in the 20s even
high in the mountains - and we were glad to get down into the cool of the
canyon. A short walk brought us to the first abseil, which has a tricky start.
Last time we just walked down the creekbed using the abseil rope as a safety line,
but the surface of the waterfall was quite remarkably slippery this time, so we
were glad we did it properly. The first abseil is immediately followed by the
second, which is tiny, and then some more creek walking to the third abseil,
which can be bypassed by shimmying down a log. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Immediately after this came the first
swim. The water was really cold, maybe even down to single figures, and the
canyon resounded with our complaints.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaR-0Aw579P9fgsQWHwBSfQR8et0qxv_P3unKGXXjH__vx1kC3b-a44gTtTKSiaar7h8xd7qG9KEASFXdnzEpa-KZ3e1YjiVr1MhgRtoHvACszKqLkUlPcNVE4TImu8sKhLUFmBYBuvZyo/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaR-0Aw579P9fgsQWHwBSfQR8et0qxv_P3unKGXXjH__vx1kC3b-a44gTtTKSiaar7h8xd7qG9KEASFXdnzEpa-KZ3e1YjiVr1MhgRtoHvACszKqLkUlPcNVE4TImu8sKhLUFmBYBuvZyo/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">A bit more walking and we were at the
abseil leading to the main drop. As we were setting up the abseil, Jon was
checking out the alternative, a water jump of at least eight metres through a
dark slot into a big pool below. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcmggJJhL8fYMJ2YiNPXD5M34IMx1tNyY0UpuTVXYC2G30NwTZdJEHYgsbpVMmPhpQTnv2c5Rzjd34bZ2fZ257_NTrs504tYwLcO3NrFTLyR76EQO6B8F2Nsmtpq8P4GaMLIM0IXNlRvCg/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcmggJJhL8fYMJ2YiNPXD5M34IMx1tNyY0UpuTVXYC2G30NwTZdJEHYgsbpVMmPhpQTnv2c5Rzjd34bZ2fZ257_NTrs504tYwLcO3NrFTLyR76EQO6B8F2Nsmtpq8P4GaMLIM0IXNlRvCg/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon07.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">There was a good view down into the water and
no obstructions, so he decided to do it, having not done so last time he did
the canyon and having regretted it ever since. Now I’m in the same position,
because it looked amazing.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZWcCgZsL_STfXBkOd9vQqkJNmi8dhG00Q-hPl54UtS7rXKjzeQdOTnNbe17WSC-bOQ20ERbwHNxoxSqxqTfS7uO7cgz70qjnp3LcrDp0JXACRLNRVys9jiFjFIFxlLg7pmiPPfwntn18o/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZWcCgZsL_STfXBkOd9vQqkJNmi8dhG00Q-hPl54UtS7rXKjzeQdOTnNbe17WSC-bOQ20ERbwHNxoxSqxqTfS7uO7cgz70qjnp3LcrDp0JXACRLNRVys9jiFjFIFxlLg7pmiPPfwntn18o/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon08.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Then we headed down the first half of the
main drop to the chockstone. This it the real highlight of the canyon, and was as
enjoyable as usual. We had two ropes, so we could go through in a line, rather
than getting everyone onto the chockstone at once, which gets very crowded. That's me heading down...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvRgHbRQRwIFdStPw-QK3zYMVCT8xbE26IeOaouEc92oqyk2iHl-xF15Nq6J-WhRryMJSW-r0YYsORGHuJ0SrsUMcD-ld1ca5WNjB2tCKaxog9gghothXTBe0f_U-a6uOo1g7Ft8Di6OWY/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvRgHbRQRwIFdStPw-QK3zYMVCT8xbE26IeOaouEc92oqyk2iHl-xF15Nq6J-WhRryMJSW-r0YYsORGHuJ0SrsUMcD-ld1ca5WNjB2tCKaxog9gghothXTBe0f_U-a6uOo1g7Ft8Di6OWY/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon09.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNqytgJKBesc6oz2ZufK9hoSGrSbEuGkN9HWzkb69dq4UdLJ9mVsXoxjX7r3Pp3hH5BxRFolrmRxyK8cCkMUEBLrtySmKAb_GHf_bPV7OZVG1_pjN9pUbmofxks8L6P_xoOa5nBHeHNMh5/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNqytgJKBesc6oz2ZufK9hoSGrSbEuGkN9HWzkb69dq4UdLJ9mVsXoxjX7r3Pp3hH5BxRFolrmRxyK8cCkMUEBLrtySmKAb_GHf_bPV7OZVG1_pjN9pUbmofxks8L6P_xoOa5nBHeHNMh5/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon11.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">...and that's Marty. Three of the five of us managed to get caught in the pothole when abseiling the
second part of the main drop behind the chockstone. This seems to be about
average, but it is definitely worth avoiding this! This is the view from the bottom of the main drop:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgulkqTjfcG_u8Vk2m9jk4E-r-CSlj49mtB1JGcE7P7VyHEB48O1YD-vv4xAnW70VdWHLoFRgHd18VJts-JqgTD5vNvFds-tImw3bYVF47GjE7pKMKdlpNHHY3zrY-1X9xNRWQ0r64j3zqj/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgulkqTjfcG_u8Vk2m9jk4E-r-CSlj49mtB1JGcE7P7VyHEB48O1YD-vv4xAnW70VdWHLoFRgHd18VJts-JqgTD5vNvFds-tImw3bYVF47GjE7pKMKdlpNHHY3zrY-1X9xNRWQ0r64j3zqj/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon13.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYMG1intoN8N2HnV2HUL782mpXPJu3w_hqd2oNQTXsZt2ELJYyxlTkni6A6eQ1Pizh8AfMpklgHbMaUgm_544kvBvK5VdZqclGI6QINgZ3prcCNWw_W1Pp0iRoKz4iUw0IOeVpqx_J5mT6/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYMG1intoN8N2HnV2HUL782mpXPJu3w_hqd2oNQTXsZt2ELJYyxlTkni6A6eQ1Pizh8AfMpklgHbMaUgm_544kvBvK5VdZqclGI6QINgZ3prcCNWw_W1Pp0iRoKz4iUw0IOeVpqx_J5mT6/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon14.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">After the main drop was a short, cold swim
and then a climbdown/abseil. The broken fixed rope has not been replaced and we
did not have a scrap of rope with us to replace it, so we abseiled. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The water in the pool
below was just shallow enough for the tall people to wade, and then the
constriction section ends with a fun water jump. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBLNZ96_4EfMVlnLsk99ddqMQcnLF-gWCLvtMCJF_7I2CRicffBLzPyR_45IfT3N285v9g67YhnmPrIoh0p90Cn6Cc2_GkrVxIwallJbm51V4JyuaW5h0hr1EhUL8Y72kJiMCDDE8mIFX_/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBLNZ96_4EfMVlnLsk99ddqMQcnLF-gWCLvtMCJF_7I2CRicffBLzPyR_45IfT3N285v9g67YhnmPrIoh0p90Cn6Cc2_GkrVxIwallJbm51V4JyuaW5h0hr1EhUL8Y72kJiMCDDE8mIFX_/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon19.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">By this stage we were pretty
cold, despite wetsuits, so we hurried on to the final, straightforward abseil
and then took the wetsuits off and warmed ourselves like lizards on the flat
rocks at the bottom of the waterfall. It was 25C and blazing sunshine, so the
contrast to a few minutes earlier was striking.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrawqQjaSEZgWnBf1k5SvpvRZ-cOPEXcSzzLfMNELe0ft4ZsDfvWLSiUnA6kYwnO8_dITRVo3lm9h4Rp9WGpgSu1xgAzZLYzp8DHUK8xdBUHjCL25T1IOj18RecKUdmMBer8NxY9SEB5WD/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrawqQjaSEZgWnBf1k5SvpvRZ-cOPEXcSzzLfMNELe0ft4ZsDfvWLSiUnA6kYwnO8_dITRVo3lm9h4Rp9WGpgSu1xgAzZLYzp8DHUK8xdBUHjCL25T1IOj18RecKUdmMBer8NxY9SEB5WD/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon20.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Marty at the final abseil and the view back to the waterfall from our sun lounging spot.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4xbPCsVkdlN0nk-lQDAhCL7I8AUewR6hclJzScaOzqzGCHSeds7JsXAy4VdA13tXRd4avSnOzyhENkjwwskruOztztUb7s8LeaxoadzwzPbG8DdOPhu9xUS4px_Ay_q7xkjf5sm1WlNDs/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4xbPCsVkdlN0nk-lQDAhCL7I8AUewR6hclJzScaOzqzGCHSeds7JsXAy4VdA13tXRd4avSnOzyhENkjwwskruOztztUb7s8LeaxoadzwzPbG8DdOPhu9xUS4px_Ay_q7xkjf5sm1WlNDs/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon21.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">After lunch we changed into shorts and
t-shirts for the climb out. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO45vg34n_xK46am4wM61gCT37tVeYqqXED1i5Vmad-hS1_MGpmZvEzSWir7cKejAadtLg2Rlbn-UvrXtIAWQUWjv0zsV5U_wae-lUAvEMpth58f0IslsBuMshJFH5VwqoKIcdhHRLnv7f/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO45vg34n_xK46am4wM61gCT37tVeYqqXED1i5Vmad-hS1_MGpmZvEzSWir7cKejAadtLg2Rlbn-UvrXtIAWQUWjv0zsV5U_wae-lUAvEMpth58f0IslsBuMshJFH5VwqoKIcdhHRLnv7f/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon23.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The track is easy to find as long as you remember
that if you hit the cliffs you have gone too high. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgftKrbCZAAj0BQ0E_-vIWGWKvopnhJcQlYuMBw83dLouGAgLHsePPLMyR-yfl6plW_PkLiSMRKePSvblRhwLZmt3Z87_Jfz-nYRbKGW20Uk25tz_qn6XewkgQyaNBw6JEULORq8_QP4h/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgftKrbCZAAj0BQ0E_-vIWGWKvopnhJcQlYuMBw83dLouGAgLHsePPLMyR-yfl6plW_PkLiSMRKePSvblRhwLZmt3Z87_Jfz-nYRbKGW20Uk25tz_qn6XewkgQyaNBw6JEULORq8_QP4h/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon22.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The track winds up and
down through the bush before crossing a dry creekbed and heading
up, here: </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidayuk4uZ22yvfZkC9OBIE5hjLPJC94D9Kqim5PXN690l5pd07ouzGnWuhoYyPq4ntgE8xYucGwJfTSbeWfU24MHEVSohqT2v26KnQB-a0hSkj-O78I5ZjLi1bS7ZsFCp_gJqUN0fx_vhq/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidayuk4uZ22yvfZkC9OBIE5hjLPJC94D9Kqim5PXN690l5pd07ouzGnWuhoYyPq4ntgE8xYucGwJfTSbeWfU24MHEVSohqT2v26KnQB-a0hSkj-O78I5ZjLi1bS7ZsFCp_gJqUN0fx_vhq/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon24.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhefvc8uMjgCa_YjPoCxQhkJ6SEtwTUe4frfgT2LyFtoZS8BChtiYg14C2tjNDajl6IpIPpXxJYWENDDEVKcgE9NNrwSUk2toE2M7Yp2RgJFQdxQjVLgl6_-HKtHRs6wEjSI8AOWbZXx3yr/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhefvc8uMjgCa_YjPoCxQhkJ6SEtwTUe4frfgT2LyFtoZS8BChtiYg14C2tjNDajl6IpIPpXxJYWENDDEVKcgE9NNrwSUk2toE2M7Yp2RgJFQdxQjVLgl6_-HKtHRs6wEjSI8AOWbZXx3yr/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon25.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">It was a beautiful day, with great views of the cliffs opposite, and the wildflowers were particularly good It seemed more like December
than September. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL9EOj_oyk8pO9WqF4qtoPIKJAgAOFe166Wi2EWWTrfPU4xuBs2gXceU9QmEUGQL8ASZPwtMPvZZABJ3pB28ASjxNfYaOqCFDfYAcLUKBJKY2OHZyqb-jGe94nh5gGyGcBQBwg8n_z93mZ/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="582" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL9EOj_oyk8pO9WqF4qtoPIKJAgAOFe166Wi2EWWTrfPU4xuBs2gXceU9QmEUGQL8ASZPwtMPvZZABJ3pB28ASjxNfYaOqCFDfYAcLUKBJKY2OHZyqb-jGe94nh5gGyGcBQBwg8n_z93mZ/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon29.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">In the afternoon sun and with packs full of wet ropes and
wetsuits it was hot work, and I for one was very glad when the track turned to
traverse across to the climb. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMxCXeScp6OgOB57p7Ro3I9h6YlwY0Sk-RYMvGY3bw9XyDTv90b0S8ziNbssdF88Nk_-k9dZbjkVH6VqQVq-CuJmESglaiShJU9WlhluXFPCIxSYHHkQMF5G7sYQXACdt_KRdo98RqbGWT/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMxCXeScp6OgOB57p7Ro3I9h6YlwY0Sk-RYMvGY3bw9XyDTv90b0S8ziNbssdF88Nk_-k9dZbjkVH6VqQVq-CuJmESglaiShJU9WlhluXFPCIxSYHHkQMF5G7sYQXACdt_KRdo98RqbGWT/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon30.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">We crawled through the low section of the ledge
to the bottom of the climb, and with no further ado Brian headed up with the
rope. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVtMBIxfp176W0s2HAdEXrTVK0WkayBgVK3Bewm2_MI4UzPbqERpyYiPtBLfX4KAd2XlgT4qQYAR7Ehc3b5WfULhUTc1yFLSyBzvgjYpCqensU8ikvSq3BUHo3TofLuvptNomCaCchZD6Z/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVtMBIxfp176W0s2HAdEXrTVK0WkayBgVK3Bewm2_MI4UzPbqERpyYiPtBLfX4KAd2XlgT4qQYAR7Ehc3b5WfULhUTc1yFLSyBzvgjYpCqensU8ikvSq3BUHo3TofLuvptNomCaCchZD6Z/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon31.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjehmzg6Vj0JSr8Nr5KE9mhEVS1l-BIF4lVJ0vBixsRt8n9IJa5jVYvbyOZ93jtp3HuR7GWoikRjIv5QQtZZRN4YuuBA_3prRxQNH8_BkBWSz-lHoRgsYROiiVAUdsgESV67lIyai40SnOl/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjehmzg6Vj0JSr8Nr5KE9mhEVS1l-BIF4lVJ0vBixsRt8n9IJa5jVYvbyOZ93jtp3HuR7GWoikRjIv5QQtZZRN4YuuBA_3prRxQNH8_BkBWSz-lHoRgsYROiiVAUdsgESV67lIyai40SnOl/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon32.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh2WPD1GbbwV-niR5zg_DhoVWqFWEg3k0daG8Z9Xb4_MVsaDb2ldStK3mfrw9t5AshfjhOMG-BP4dLH4gEqWROZniKdhp8ePZMDS876zR2_E81G6tcgBZVwE5mjhl4v6sFmIAr2R9jLM9F/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh2WPD1GbbwV-niR5zg_DhoVWqFWEg3k0daG8Z9Xb4_MVsaDb2ldStK3mfrw9t5AshfjhOMG-BP4dLH4gEqWROZniKdhp8ePZMDS876zR2_E81G6tcgBZVwE5mjhl4v6sFmIAr2R9jLM9F/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon33.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Drawing on previous experience, we got Jon to tie in on the ledge half
way up the climb and brought all the packs up in two stages, which avoided them
getting caught on things.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ8xpF80sDMNPilr5-AWJWmmBvF3y-IH2-hjhrSjN4W9K-EdicnZnNR_ST8ZXI41ePW0xAyfnXwvmAjixaOdK6igj6NQS7F1bPLnFgQkciVpa2Y2foaheGurUiLPTgGSdbCR15pTzSD5wu/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ8xpF80sDMNPilr5-AWJWmmBvF3y-IH2-hjhrSjN4W9K-EdicnZnNR_ST8ZXI41ePW0xAyfnXwvmAjixaOdK6igj6NQS7F1bPLnFgQkciVpa2Y2foaheGurUiLPTgGSdbCR15pTzSD5wu/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon35.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhebQeuHYCYjV3vnZ7erUdzvPyEv6jkY1yNiwJ3jsUiW_XQ_5qQXvnIMDnZVWdaDzUuIAK0qk83qzqWRJV3RGL49iJRbcOTg7hzOcj2AXKcPCYMoKwEl17n9fh1J0IQayjA7VUuJ4IqYL2Q/s1600/Mt+Hay+Canyon36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhebQeuHYCYjV3vnZ7erUdzvPyEv6jkY1yNiwJ3jsUiW_XQ_5qQXvnIMDnZVWdaDzUuIAK0qk83qzqWRJV3RGL49iJRbcOTg7hzOcj2AXKcPCYMoKwEl17n9fh1J0IQayjA7VUuJ4IqYL2Q/s640/Mt+Hay+Canyon36.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">When Elena and Marty had come up we headed to the final,
very steep gully to the lookout for the
traditional photo of triumph, and then walked the half hour back to the car.
All up the trip took 6hrs 45m, and it was a magnificent day for the first canyon of spring.</span></div>
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Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-30223872621449055292015-06-02T12:42:00.006+10:002015-06-02T12:42:57.883+10:00Mt Hay (Butterbox) CanyonI had wanted to do Butterbox for ages, but needed someone more competent to lead the climbing exit, which is required to make it a manageable day trip on my own. So when a trip was advertised through SUBW I leapt at the chance. We met at the end of the Mt Hay firetrail at 7.30 on Sunday morning. The car thermometer read 6C and with a stiff breeze blowing it looked like it was going to be a cold day. In fact, the wind soon dropped and I regretted bringing my warmest - and hence heaviest - wetsuit. Looking East from the carpark you can see the towers of Sydney 80km away, but looking northwest, here is the early morning view over Rocky Points Creek and Butterbox canyon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHlEX8g6ITAbX2_7jgJQ092fhOuV1-5tNHZvRjl2uyZaeLA388wEbHuqOpjcjX-xxQTFSOF_PgNAYMpfpMrd2LohAEnv_G-7i36p5rCfQuhcJI-RdZz4wDhTSmWo4nPGDG3gFBnCzmJt8o/s1600/P5310003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHlEX8g6ITAbX2_7jgJQ092fhOuV1-5tNHZvRjl2uyZaeLA388wEbHuqOpjcjX-xxQTFSOF_PgNAYMpfpMrd2LohAEnv_G-7i36p5rCfQuhcJI-RdZz4wDhTSmWo4nPGDG3gFBnCzmJt8o/s640/P5310003.jpg" /></a></div>
By 8.00 we were heading downhill, across the swamp and down small cliffline into the creek. There are several small abseils and scrambles in the creek, and we saved time by bypassing some drops and hand-over-handing others. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn4BcdbmGHysnr4cMLqgLLdBMkTpyxuDnOS20VjiuRX_xJsVgQw3d5qn2N3dGCPLUKq7R04DveIy_2D4H6jSr76enRY4HONarlLUFlR88PwsZGYvvbfjBpORo91_xGWY5BUUM3dCM62nPi/s1600/P5310006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn4BcdbmGHysnr4cMLqgLLdBMkTpyxuDnOS20VjiuRX_xJsVgQw3d5qn2N3dGCPLUKq7R04DveIy_2D4H6jSr76enRY4HONarlLUFlR88PwsZGYvvbfjBpORo91_xGWY5BUUM3dCM62nPi/s640/P5310006.jpg" /></a></div>
By 9.45 we had changed into wetsuits and arrived at the abseil down to the main drop.
Here is our intrepid leader Leo at the main drop, rigging the abseil to the chockstone...
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq6dzhDrX2YnozIk6NK2e-fb-VVszKZX4JuO5C4UWhXR4laAS0YvMbgid81wR5FnHBQKCXcFh5beyATDosZ5OTFF75v0i6JReWs8OFV5XK9Rk3kGsK-KvFpitV5VGSA9vcI58PSvFQUDvI/s1600/P5310066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq6dzhDrX2YnozIk6NK2e-fb-VVszKZX4JuO5C4UWhXR4laAS0YvMbgid81wR5FnHBQKCXcFh5beyATDosZ5OTFF75v0i6JReWs8OFV5XK9Rk3kGsK-KvFpitV5VGSA9vcI58PSvFQUDvI/s640/P5310066.jpg" /></a></div>
...and arriving at the chockstone.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifiD1OsLBUO2DXsKZZgcAny9Pb5US71GcoxXbWw3ts0Fh8-p_O30-Thb0LBAoJpa87WH9oaMcRuFZWm7zLFDrvfEiCmYOTYtprZoBna-d9Hu1vLKABeTzR5h6Ip0Ct59FUZ3QU5n42nN7S/s1600/P5310074.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifiD1OsLBUO2DXsKZZgcAny9Pb5US71GcoxXbWw3ts0Fh8-p_O30-Thb0LBAoJpa87WH9oaMcRuFZWm7zLFDrvfEiCmYOTYtprZoBna-d9Hu1vLKABeTzR5h6Ip0Ct59FUZ3QU5n42nN7S/s640/P5310074.jpg" /></a></div>
We managed to get all four of us on the chockstone, before rerigging the rope and abseiling down the waterfall behind the chockstone. Ted was first down, after exploring the cave from which the waterfall emerges:
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCE_2v7QOn985CXeMDGmqiA7ecfl55toHrqUSi7uWZF2VmE2C9PxiaEBIp9-0hk_tdzTp2lTu4ojymrcnNAlF97PrVYy9FPiumtPLUxkgkBBT7FZUBVs1NC_5yjKHRS8ZSBVsrkIKOuWKi/s1600/P5310111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCE_2v7QOn985CXeMDGmqiA7ecfl55toHrqUSi7uWZF2VmE2C9PxiaEBIp9-0hk_tdzTp2lTu4ojymrcnNAlF97PrVYy9FPiumtPLUxkgkBBT7FZUBVs1NC_5yjKHRS8ZSBVsrkIKOuWKi/s640/P5310111.jpg" /></a></div>
This is a great abseil. It drops straight into a big pothole, with the waterfall pouring into it like a giant version of a fountain. Glenn and I both ended up on the pothole and had to scramble over the lip to get moving again.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipHSW85TWsf9gugKBZ3aleZLjACc1h97q9AE9una9rdjCqZTxrVUrRtYfo9crS-OlmLQMd8ddAYGyz0ZVuKuPW09gqyb4CYI4MsNPqScIWOxX2VydKed0Z5zXIHow_B6dx7JCOwHZwJvbw/s1600/P5310116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipHSW85TWsf9gugKBZ3aleZLjACc1h97q9AE9una9rdjCqZTxrVUrRtYfo9crS-OlmLQMd8ddAYGyz0ZVuKuPW09gqyb4CYI4MsNPqScIWOxX2VydKed0Z5zXIHow_B6dx7JCOwHZwJvbw/s640/P5310116.jpg" /></a></div>
After a while, the abseiler emerges from under the chockstone, before turning a corner and disappearing again.
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Glenn heading down the hole...
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and emerging into the light:
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Leo had planned to move the rope before leaving the chockstone, but a test pull-down revealed that the rope ran freely behind it, so he was able to enjoy the waterfall, and soon appeared around the corner into the pool at the bottom.
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By 10.45 we were beyond the main drop and heading down the lower, more open portion of the canyon. We dealt with a tricky clin=mbdown where the fixed rope was much too short and Leo heroically made a step with his shoulder back, later discovering the rest of the rope in the bottom of the pool, enjoyed our first waterjump of the day, and realised too late that the abseil into this pretty pool can be bypassed on the left to a short jump.
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All too soon we were at the final abseil and out through the canyon mouth.
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Crossing the creek, we found the rough but clear track leading to the usual climbing exit. When the track started to head up I was completely overheating in my big wetsuit, so we stopped to change back into normal clothes. The track then turns onto a narrow ledge, where it is necessary to crawl because of the overhang, and emerges at the one point that requires some actual climbing. Leo was up in a jiffy, using the four bolts and hangers that have been installed to aid the climb.
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Then we hauled up the packs and the others followed. This is Ted climbing:
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And joining Leo on the belay ledge to admire the magnificent views of the Grose Valley.
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We were all up by 1.20 and since the views were so great, we decided to stop for lunch. With no wind it was a lovely spot to hang out - the sun even came out for a few minutes.
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A final scramble up a steep gully brought us to a magnificent lookout from where we could see back down into the canyon from which we had come:
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Here we are planning future trips, as you tend to do at this stage of a walk. This one was a definite winner - great trip leadership from Leo, an ideal party size of four, which is really all you want for this canyon, and remarkably good weather for the official last day of autumn. We were back at the cars by 2.30, so 6.5 hours overall.
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Been there, done that...
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Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-22119938798680534782015-04-18T15:20:00.000+10:002015-04-18T15:36:05.940+10:00Donkey Mountain and Starlight Canyon<span lang="EN-US">This was a car-based camping weekend, Saturday exploring Donkey Mountain and Sunday visiting Starlight Canyon. We camped alongside the Wolgan river opposite the old Newnes Hotel.
The pub looks much as it did when it served its last drinks sixty years back,
with the front bar now serving as the camp office and kiosk. By the
time the sun went down on Friday we had the tents up and a roaring fire going and after dinner we settled down around the fire for red wine and chocolate, both
of which were in plentiful supply. </span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US">Next morning we had a leisurely start,
perhaps due to the amount of red wine, and started up Donkey Mountain. We parked at the stile where there is an NPWS sign and headed straight up, hitting the cliffs just below The Columns, from where we walked and
scrambled north east arriving at the saddle which is the lowest point of the
mountain. </span></div>
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Gaelle scrambling<br />
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<span lang="EN-US"> Brian looking back at The Columns.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">From here
we continued north east along the top of the mountain. It took us some time to
get a sense of the scale of the sketch maps, and we were only really certain of
our location when we got into Donkey Canyon, having enjoyed various pinnacles
and lookouts along the way. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">At the end of Donkey Canyon we scrambled across
into what we took to be the end of Titanic Canyon, and eventually into the
unmistakable Grand Hall. It is a truly great spot – the perfect bushrangers
lair – and it really feels like a big hall. The floor is perfectly level, dry
leaf-litter and there is even a massive natural rock fireplace resembling the
hearth in a medieval castle. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">We climbed the crack into Two-Storey Cave and from
there popped out into Freeway where we met two bushwalkers from Orange who had
been unable to find their way into the Grand Hall from the other end. </span></div>
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Two-storey cave provides the hall with the only other thing it needs - a minstrel's gallery.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj_AFHV0mo4eIpH6T_LzL1w6QUmHmR2H01CCPkIsy8NszcqO-EGsbpWL4mBKKrLZijgohZD3mIjFGxj7cPo0brZQCLgBjQ30Ke3f3UZTlpo5Lnt1h9-kIo8awxNqhgW9-JbidNXa1gUsuO/s1600/P4110037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj_AFHV0mo4eIpH6T_LzL1w6QUmHmR2H01CCPkIsy8NszcqO-EGsbpWL4mBKKrLZijgohZD3mIjFGxj7cPo0brZQCLgBjQ30Ke3f3UZTlpo5Lnt1h9-kIo8awxNqhgW9-JbidNXa1gUsuO/s1600/P4110037.jpg" height="960" width="720" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Scrambling back down into the Grand Hall we proceeded along the narrow passage
to Grand Entrance, where we met the people from Orange again and had lunch on
top of Mossy Rocks.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">After lunch we went looking for the Green
Room. Once again, we did not find the sketch maps particularly easy to follow.
When we got nearly to the end of the mountain we were able to identify some
obvious features, especially Jenny Craig, a crack about 30metres long between two sections of the
mountain that you can get right through but only sideways. Tony was captivated by Jenny Craig and went back and forth
right through several times. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">From this landmark we worked our way back to the
Green Room. This is another beautiful stone ‘room’ with the kinds of vegetation
you usually only find in a deep, wet gully right on top of the mountain. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihk5ZFr_0PdsP6yxRC_gfI2uPTwGpGA_2nEsEHSOAaHC0Z2WfMnBzPVr-yIKkgk_-a9RfJIQZzGpHGliZdvzau6EhAWPt7i112P2NIlwj5DRGI_wzoQdPDTK9k-0L-jH1ridxGZw536L5q/s1600/DSC_0262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihk5ZFr_0PdsP6yxRC_gfI2uPTwGpGA_2nEsEHSOAaHC0Z2WfMnBzPVr-yIKkgk_-a9RfJIQZzGpHGliZdvzau6EhAWPt7i112P2NIlwj5DRGI_wzoQdPDTK9k-0L-jH1ridxGZw536L5q/s1600/DSC_0262.jpg" height="960" width="636" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The
scramble out at the top end of the Green Room is quite demanding and we decided to head back by a route we knew. A close
encounter with a snake in the narrow passage to Tchaikovsky Ledge put an end to
my appetite for further adventure so it was back to Grand Entrance and straight down the steep gully to the road. Walking
back along the road to the car was a good chance to look up at the mountain and
identity the features we had seen from close up. A great day, and Donkey
Mountain richly deserves its reputation.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0ayTCx94-5H0fWH4yAQFjMlvGzbHIn8Sd4P8yLx70pkXQ1PxOHIpUIGYEPqg6JrqG34ExwURuuJCi7IMuEtoBSsSLw7cSV1WLNygV1_13DdyRSs92ELK1MO3Z_K0orcsnwDtQG_6xfNJZ/s1600/DSC_0135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0ayTCx94-5H0fWH4yAQFjMlvGzbHIn8Sd4P8yLx70pkXQ1PxOHIpUIGYEPqg6JrqG34ExwURuuJCi7IMuEtoBSsSLw7cSV1WLNygV1_13DdyRSs92ELK1MO3Z_K0orcsnwDtQG_6xfNJZ/s1600/DSC_0135.JPG" height="636" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">We were back in camp about 4.30 and having
the luxury of hot showers when Marty and Tristan arrived for another nice
evening of fire and red wine. An early wombat out before sunset gave Gaelle the
chance to take photos and films – it was the first time she had seen one. The
weather was perfect, that night, with dry, wombat-grazed grass to lie on around the fire
and the cloudless sky and zero light pollution revealing the full glory of the
milky way.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPFqt4U8FVExep5eYTG9X0yJx3mf0fX8TawdwmwUYS5tKB3hnoEcDH_yJDHPmgCY1McVdLmJH5hujHMdw8xFIrOPJWWg4vXykOmTGeXd-47vaLtHhqSXghDHcq5cTMq3bBZSRSoFtUesex/s1600/DSC_0301.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPFqt4U8FVExep5eYTG9X0yJx3mf0fX8TawdwmwUYS5tKB3hnoEcDH_yJDHPmgCY1McVdLmJH5hujHMdw8xFIrOPJWWg4vXykOmTGeXd-47vaLtHhqSXghDHcq5cTMq3bBZSRSoFtUesex/s1600/DSC_0301.JPG" height="636" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The next morning we were a little less dilatory,
heading down the river to the Pipeline Track at 8.00. An hour's hard climb
brought us out on the Wolgan Valley lookout, where we rested and took photos –
the sun was out and the views simply magnificent. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikDy1RK_hgaAlpSGawH4Is8B0b_AZPtZ8F_HTivlamWn82pFokblboGFc5P9b__WOwLhrEfqM5v3sI04q-takZvWMM60vuS7I6ncQTlehwebge7NJ4T3MmQBdmfAztlQUdcfMzX1Ey2hPA/s1600/P1030634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikDy1RK_hgaAlpSGawH4Is8B0b_AZPtZ8F_HTivlamWn82pFokblboGFc5P9b__WOwLhrEfqM5v3sI04q-takZvWMM60vuS7I6ncQTlehwebge7NJ4T3MmQBdmfAztlQUdcfMzX1Ey2hPA/s1600/P1030634.jpg" height="720" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">We followed the Pipeline Track to the
saddle and turned off for Starlight Canyon, enjoying views of the Capertee
Valley on the other side and the mountains in the Wollemi beyond. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZmQAb1dGCIzK2J6T7wqxw1dSLrhclnfDxfP8PmDLPlXCvjRw4sdNG-VX_4Ljlq6yhvCzSqLbWQCUviLbPSsPMEi_bhyQ7LB0wFZPo9_HOu7iUzTc3eP6RmmyQeqw3zTOYfQjG-qv1fes/s1600/P1030643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZmQAb1dGCIzK2J6T7wqxw1dSLrhclnfDxfP8PmDLPlXCvjRw4sdNG-VX_4Ljlq6yhvCzSqLbWQCUviLbPSsPMEi_bhyQ7LB0wFZPo9_HOu7iUzTc3eP6RmmyQeqw3zTOYfQjG-qv1fes/s1600/P1030643.jpg" height="720" width="960" /></a></div>
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<br />
<span lang="EN-US">Our notes said that the track peters out in the saddle before Starlight, but these
days it is well-defined considerably further and we decided to follow it,
despite the fact that we were heading beyond the indicated point to head down
into the creek. We saw a couple of cairns that might mark the turn-off, but no
clearly defined side track. Maybe we missed it. In any case, the main track
ended on a rock formation above Starlight where a cairn seemed to indicate
crossing and continuing. The GPS indicated we were no more than 200m from the
usual entry to the canyon, so we decided to carry on down. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2kYnjWSuL-iwS0ZPgENXOXr0Yk3ahyJKSUPTNSDfeO5bRhGyky8gp8GYLlhA9O0XksPB_CgHU-uK285I-ejnMenfkS6rxn27C9jpQ9qfMF-6sTMiZVoa36WUjE3fQBrnn94IPJkqVuJG/s1600/P4120058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2kYnjWSuL-iwS0ZPgENXOXr0Yk3ahyJKSUPTNSDfeO5bRhGyky8gp8GYLlhA9O0XksPB_CgHU-uK285I-ejnMenfkS6rxn27C9jpQ9qfMF-6sTMiZVoa36WUjE3fQBrnn94IPJkqVuJG/s1600/P4120058.jpg" height="720" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">At the bottom of the
rocks we picked up a fainter but still convincing track, and shortly after we
arrived at the top of a 15m abseil with an anchor in place, which we descended, with me last as usual**@!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgeX3wTvmYwGBbtvuNmRCoOLy9PONwD0egiRd4hKBU2VMFP0EA9endCqQ437fyFVHNKJNGXpSwpSMc3z5ZrKFcpyj0GJBoIlOkv5xfrMliNNbuTyDAEfxJerjyElUHylillnSxnIOZondJ/s1600/P1030691.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgeX3wTvmYwGBbtvuNmRCoOLy9PONwD0egiRd4hKBU2VMFP0EA9endCqQ437fyFVHNKJNGXpSwpSMc3z5ZrKFcpyj0GJBoIlOkv5xfrMliNNbuTyDAEfxJerjyElUHylillnSxnIOZondJ/s1600/P1030691.jpg" height="960" width="720" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHzEWRySKh14L-6rF_qBUPOv8gv3jXjIV5BImECimsf945zn7Du3QtsSV_tWfYWHz9g4L8JKMFCFyGRMoclinlraA-2tvh2rhn6DnuBYKEwX-jgL1phvDfrxPjQhuDil7_d-PTIzBjS-xI/s1600/P1030685.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHzEWRySKh14L-6rF_qBUPOv8gv3jXjIV5BImECimsf945zn7Du3QtsSV_tWfYWHz9g4L8JKMFCFyGRMoclinlraA-2tvh2rhn6DnuBYKEwX-jgL1phvDfrxPjQhuDil7_d-PTIzBjS-xI/s1600/P1030685.jpg" height="720" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">We still seemed to be very high
above the creek given that the track notes describe only one 15m abseil here, and indeed, shortly after the first abseil there was
another, so now we knew for sure we were not on the usual route. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2KhABcJ4lt19Y_G0vylO2jjQ7RS_UODEa9BBixokxSrl2MIdaCiDZ7wf4lHaGneYTgF6YRIgcJn7VuDILhyphenhyphen7La9bgcXcaORLMH5tEpbR6D9tCWaT9Pq7f90j4EwYFsMEKXaVircgXcIcX/s1600/P1030709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2KhABcJ4lt19Y_G0vylO2jjQ7RS_UODEa9BBixokxSrl2MIdaCiDZ7wf4lHaGneYTgF6YRIgcJn7VuDILhyphenhyphen7La9bgcXcaORLMH5tEpbR6D9tCWaT9Pq7f90j4EwYFsMEKXaVircgXcIcX/s1600/P1030709.jpg" height="720" width="960" /></a></div>
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<br />
<span lang="EN-US">As seems we were on
a route designed for when the tunnel section of Starlight is blocked by debris and can
only be accessed from bottom. It was a fun route – five abseils of roughly 15,
15, 20, 8 and 8 metres, all with straightforward starts and with minimal
horizontal walking between them. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd0AwXAY-11nKMagdpZ5DUGvtNEkwahubacnFOK3MjcZRBToetdKzfB9nP6BrEwTVDBPra8F_2pokp-ebDsW4_AwyHVETTT7LgUK3h87aHcBpXvSOYZXwlflMreQRN0bGPs51aDW_HoMwU/s1600/P1030722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd0AwXAY-11nKMagdpZ5DUGvtNEkwahubacnFOK3MjcZRBToetdKzfB9nP6BrEwTVDBPra8F_2pokp-ebDsW4_AwyHVETTT7LgUK3h87aHcBpXvSOYZXwlflMreQRN0bGPs51aDW_HoMwU/s1600/P1030722.jpg" height="960" width="720" /></a></div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US">The final short abseil drops into Starlight right
at the exit from the tunnel section. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifW-YFpTezLAlcxRbIHWRaUJGfwjsz6M7QA4mx7qQi13xcP6RpdW3Mjk3YA6MhOqmaJvGcCBnFlCjPmmdb5kR7JoEyIExt3Can7A32COBl7HEfHhxYMVP1RcmqZbbNCJj6aT-ROHvBs8cq/s1600/P1030740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifW-YFpTezLAlcxRbIHWRaUJGfwjsz6M7QA4mx7qQi13xcP6RpdW3Mjk3YA6MhOqmaJvGcCBnFlCjPmmdb5kR7JoEyIExt3Can7A32COBl7HEfHhxYMVP1RcmqZbbNCJj6aT-ROHvBs8cq/s1600/P1030740.jpg" height="960" width="720" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">So we reversed up the tunnel to the normal
abseil entry. It was an ideal time to visit, as it was almost dry and there
were only a couple of small piles of timber debris to negotiate. For almost all
the way it was a smooth, sandy path, allowing us to walk with just a couple of
dim redlights for the whole group and appreciate the glowworms. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">This was my first visit to Starlight and it
completely exceeded my already high expectations. What a place! The tunnel is a
great rift in the rock, one to two metres wide in most places and in places as
much as twenty metres high. The water-sculpted walls get closer together as
they rise up and are covered in glowworms, forming great sweeps of ‘stars’
resembling the perfect night sky we had enjoyed the night before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It seems to go on for ever, and is in fact
300 metres long. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">After a slow walk up and down the tunnel we
started down the canyon. Once again, it exceeded<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>expectations, being significantly longer and
more canyon-like than I expected. There is a substantial section of beautiful,
sculpted constriction,</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">This is followed by a much longer section of gorge with
excellent, clean cliff faces on both side of perhaps 80 meters in many places.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">At the end there is a 15m abseil
down an exceedingly pretty waterfall, or a shorter, dry abseil on the right. As
it was now nearly four in the afternoon we got the spare rope out and set up both abseils to
speed things up.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US">We then tried to boulder scramble down the
creek, which is a steep chaos of huge blocks. This was lots of fun, but quite
demanding and very slow, so after a bit we climbed up on one side, as
recommended in the notes. This got us pretty quickly to the Wolgan River and
the 6km walk down the firetrail on the far side. </span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US">We ran out of light after a
couple of kilometres and did the last bit with head torches, arriving back at
camp at 7.00. With a big party, a couple of inexperienced people, and all the
abseils in the route we used it had taken us eleven hours and we were pretty tired by the time we reached Katoomba for dinner. </span><br />
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Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-86487193845458576912015-03-31T21:44:00.001+11:002015-04-18T15:45:24.517+10:00Claustral CanyonThis was a trip I ran under the auspices of Sydney University Bushwalking Club, but since all the club members on this trip were academics and the guest was a visiting academic, it felt like a 'Sons...' trip and so seemed suitable for inclusion. Claustral Canyon is generally acknowledged as the finest of the Blue Mountains sandstone slot canyons, and the exit track is so long that it is a decent bushwalk even if you ignore the canyoning! The entry track, however, is short and easy and despite stopping for some abseil revision for the less experienced members of the party we were at the first abseil down Calcutta Falls, pictured below, after about an hour.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZiRqpdUXM6nJXp718D0wUU2Y_Ss5-twnMklAZja82ZOrnVaf5kvSPKcmwuzswwnEIaJ9k0G-taxboysRIJcLNqq17pimDfrWsF4L2VWiynL1FDSkO_Fyjo7iXxpNpcC_xxt0IZj-7kC8B/s1600/12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a> <br />
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</style> <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">There was not too much water flowing, so the
abseils were straightforward, although abseiling into a dark hole is always a
little intimidating for the inexperienced. </span>Here is Colin heading down:<br />
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Brian had gone down first to belay, and I was tied in at the top doing safety checks, as shown here.<br />
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This is Ingo heading down - his first canyoning trip. <br />
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Finally it was my turn. With eight people it took an age to get everyone down, and I was pretty glad to be moving!<br />
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The second abseil follows immediately, after a short swim across a pool. Here I am on the second abseil. Tristan went last on this one - hurrah!<br />
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We were now in the mysterious world of the Black Hole. Those of us at the end of the queue for the third abseil started to get cold despite our wetsuits as we
waited in the darkness, knee-deep in the pool in front of the ‘window’. However, it was good to spend some time in that part of
Claustral, as it is really one of the magic places of the world. We stared at
the high anchor up above, presumably used when the ‘window’ is under water and speculated
about what this spot would be like with that much water in the canyon –
certainly challenging! We didn't get any useable photos, but here is a shot of the 'window' that I took on an earlier trip:
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This is the cavern at the bottom of the Black Hole, illuminated by redlight, which worked well in these circumstances.<br />
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A few tens of metres further and we emerged in the main section of Claustral canyon.<br />
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From here there are several hundred meters of a perfect slot canyon, with beautiful, water-sculpted walls and lush vegetation hanging down. There are a couple of wades, but most of it is an easy, level walk. The yabbies (freshwater crayfish) are much larger and no doubt taste finer, than the ones you can buy in the shops. They are, of course, not for consumption!<br />
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We stopped for lunch at The Beach, where Claustral Canyon meets Thunder Gorge. The patch of sunlight was greatly appreciated.<br />
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From here there is an broad, sunny section of Thunder Gorge before it narrows into another slot canyon, including the famous Tunnel Swim in front of which Brian is standing.<br />
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This is the last climbdown and swim before Rainbow Ravine and the climb out<br />
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At the bottom of the exit we changed out of our wetsuits ready for the scramble up Rainbow Ravine.<br />
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And this is the last bit of scrambling in the ravine before the track gets back to dry eucalypt forest.<br />
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Looking back from the Camels Hump you get no impression of the magic world we had just left behind. It is also still at least two hours, and a couple of short swims, back to the cars. <br />
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<br />Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-23308321902219940562014-11-30T09:32:00.001+11:002015-10-09T23:11:04.018+11:00Bungonia Creek Canyon - a long day out<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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One of the advantages of taking leave on a weekday is that you have the national parks to yourself. Although the weather was superb and Bungonia is just off the Hume Highway, there were only a few people in the camping area, and the three of us had the canyon completely to ourselves. We arrived about 10.30 and took only a few minutes to get down into Bungonia Creek and start following it down.<br />
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After a few minutes we arrived at Lots Wife, probably turned to stone after fleeing from the Sodom and Gomorrah that is Bungonia camping area at Easter. The official temperature was only 22C but it was much warmer than this in the canyon, which acts as a sun trap.<br />
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Kate with Lots Wife<br />
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Kate and Chris traversing to keep dry - I was swimming by this point. With no flow in the creek the water was bath temperature.
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Kate and Chris scrambling<br />
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Kate at the top of the first abseil. This is 30+ metres and a nice, clean wall into a beautiful pool. The extended anchor from a tree on the true left described in Tom Brennan's canyon guide no longer exists, but it would be a good idea to bring some gear and restore it. We used an existing anchor high on the true right, consisting of a row of three old, rusty, but convincingly solid pitons. Immediately below the anchor the rope turns about 45% around the rock, and, as we should have predicted, the rope jammed. We spent about an hour, first trying to get a better angle for the pulldown, then exploring some gullies a little downstream looking for a climb back up before Chris resigned himself to prussiking back up the rope.<br />
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Chris getting ready to prussic, with Paul doing a backup belay (later abandoned as too slow).<br />
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Chris getting to the hard bit.<br />
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Success! (much relief all round, cheers and congratulations to Chris on his heroic efforts, etc)<br />
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Finally, we were on the move again, having lost over two hours recovering the rope. This was turning into a long day! Here I am at the first jump. There is a fixed line on the true right which lets you avoid the jump, or reduce it to just a couple of meters.<br />
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Chris doing the full five metres.<br />
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Paul and Chris swimming<br />
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Soon after the jump we arrived at the top of the big drop - supposedly 80m. <br />
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It is possibly to scramble down on the left, and if we had been unable to recover the rope on the previous abseil we would have rigged the 80m of 6mm cord we had with us as a safety line and done just that. But as it was, we were able to accomplish one of the main aims of the trip and abseil the whole thing in one go using an 80m rope on a biner-block and recovering the rope with an 80m pull-cord. We found a nice, new pair of stainless steel bolts on the true right. Chris and Kate abseiled with the biner block backed up directly to the anchor, and I removed the back up and followed them.<br />
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It is a nice abseil - vertical for about the first 30m, and then a series of ledges. This is Kate abseiling - she's just leaving the first of the ledges. There is another anchor half-way down, so we did not need to do it our way, but it it was a good test of the system. As predicted, there was a lot of friction at the beginning of the abseil, because of the weight of rope below. I stopped on a ledge half way down to add more friction to my descender. We were a little more surprised at how much elasticity there was in the Tendon 9.2 static we were using when the rope is this long. By the end of the abseil it felt like a dynamic climbing rope. Stepping off the last ledge we needed to take a little jump while the rope extended by a couple of feet as it stretched out. The first part of the pull-down was also hard work, as we needed to take the stretch out of 80m of cord before getting any actual movement at the other end.<br />
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Kate on the final bit. You can also jump from here.<br />
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Kate and Chris with the view back to the big drop. At this point, we are at the junction of Bungonia and Jerrara Creeks. There are two ways out from here, either walking downstream to the Red Track, or climbing the ridge between Bungonia Creek and Jerrara Creek Canyon. The track notes suggested that the climb is a a lot quicker, and as it was now about 4.30, as you can see from the shadow on the wall of the canyon, we decided to try the climb.<br />
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This is the first part of the climb, to the top of Jerrara Falls. As you can see, it is a very unstable scree slope with a lot of potential to take a serious fall, hence the safety line we have rigged, and an almost certainty of sending rocks down onto those below, hence the helmets. After about 80m vertical you reach the top of Jerrara Falls. The anchors seem to have been changed here too. On the way up we could see what looked like some new bolts on a large, sloping ledge part of the way down the 80m drop of the falls. Just back from the top of the falls there are slings around a good-sized tree. So it may have been recently set up to do in two 40m drops, but don't count on that, as we did not take a serious look at it.<br />
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From here on, there are no photos from the day, as we were a bit busy climbing the ridge between Jerrara Creek Canyon and Bungonia creek. However, I took some photos from the tourist lookout on another visit. On this image you can see the ridge on the left hand side of the waterfall, nicely picked out with yellow wattle bushes. For scale, the waterfall is about 70m.<br />
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The description in the Brennan canyon guide is spot on - 'very exposed, on scree and poor rock...quite dangerous'. The ridge is very steep - in places about 30 degrees off vertical - with some sections of scree with only vegetation as hand holds, and some of rotten rock where even quite large blocks can come away in your hand. At some points you are exposed to a fall right down into the canyon. There is nothing here to deter an experienced scrambler, and if you just went for it you could get out pretty fast. However, being at the end of long day, and thinking safety first, we used the rope and did it as three 40m 'pitches', with Chris belaying me while I clipped the rope to slings around a series of reasonably solid looking shrubs until I reached one of the very occasional trees, and then me belaying him from the tree on the first half of the rope, and Kate on the second half. While very safe, this, naturally, took for ever and by the time we were half way along the track back to the camp site we were using head torches. We finally got back about 8.00, having been away for 9.5 hours and feeling as pictured below!<br />
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Despite the unforced error on the first abseil (always test the pull-down before the last person comes down!), and the consequent long day out this was a great day in the bush. I would recommend the 'longer' exit to the Red Track, as boulder scrambling in a creek bed is more fun that getting scratched up on a scrubby ridge. Special thanks to Chris for the prussik ascending!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkEFLunUx408OvSduCVi_e00-wHAAfKyFbLAa5MIJqjOfe3qw6vQChsAwyp8J9potjzRiygGqWusuhCEwLKMVOhZBb-6ICXc_htQ_qJSUn79-fPBj0pnf7GfTYZlMulZUPgoiQmxSgYD9E/s1600/PB280126+-+Version+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkEFLunUx408OvSduCVi_e00-wHAAfKyFbLAa5MIJqjOfe3qw6vQChsAwyp8J9potjzRiygGqWusuhCEwLKMVOhZBb-6ICXc_htQ_qJSUn79-fPBj0pnf7GfTYZlMulZUPgoiQmxSgYD9E/s960/PB280126+-+Version+2.jpg" /></a>Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-1875021814521452602014-09-21T16:06:00.000+10:002014-11-30T10:03:21.697+11:00Tiger Snake CanyonSpring is here and as two friends from Canberra were in the Blue Mountains on a climbing trip it seemed a great opportunity for an early season canyon. When I arrived on Friday night the temperature put paid to wild fantasies of doing Mt Hay Canyon and we spent the evening deciding where we had the best chance of enjoying a canyon with dry feet Eventually we settled on Tiger Snake Canyon near Newnes. We got to the carpark a bit after 10.00, chatted with another canyoning party, and by 11.00 we were at the entrance to the canyon. Here is Chris about to back-climb the crack. Geoff and I decided to abseil in from the pagoda on the right instead (double click on a photo to just view the images as an album).<br />
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Soon we were scrambling inside the constriction. Chris managed to use this very dodgy log to keep his socks dry.<br />
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The next drop is off a very dodgy anchor. There was once a bolt here, but rebolting has been forbidden in the Wollemi Wilderness. Chris went first while we sat on the pile of logs to give him a bit more security.<br />
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Geoff abseiling off the dodgy anchor. At this stage Chris had decide to take his socks off - they were going to stay dry whatever it took!<br />
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Chris sizing up a narrow bit of the constriction.<br />
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A little more scrambling brought us to the end of the first constriction and into the open section of the canyon.<br />
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The highlight of the open section is this nice abseil.<br />
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The open section is quite short and very soon we reached the next constriction, where we found the chockstone we had read about. It seemed to have been purpose-built to jam the rope and prevent it pulling down cleanly. What is needed here is something like a length of plastic guttering suspended from the anchor for the rope to run through. At present the last person needs to to balance the rope on the point of the rock and then not dislodge it on the way down.<br />
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This seemed like more trouble than it was worth, so we headed off on ledges on the left to where you can abseil from a natural bridge across the canyon. Here I am heading down the hole.<br />
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And here is Chris apparently enjoying himself immensely - perhaps the thought of those dry socks.<br />
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Geoff had the good sense to keep the camera out as he came down, and snap us looking up from the bottom of the slot.<br />
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Then he slid the camera down the rope, so we could snap him coming down.<br />
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When we saw the wonderfully complex passage coming down from the section of the constriction we had skipped, starting with this little rock bridge, we were a bit sorry to have missed it - despite the nice abseil.<br />
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Chris tried to scramble back up to take a look. This is what it actually looked like using headlamps.<br />
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And here it is with the flash on. It seemed a bit too slick for safety, so we decided this was a good incentive to come back and do the canyon again.<br />
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Here I am captivated by a heavenly light from above.<br />
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The heavenly light:<br />
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Geoff unimpressed by the heavenly light:<br />
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The walk through the remainder of the constriction to the canyon entrance is really nice. It's impossible to do justice to these places in photographs.<br />
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We finished the canyon at about 14.00, having taken it pretty slowly to enjoy the beauty of the place, and stopped for lunch in a lovely patch of coachwood trees and tree ferns just where the canyon ends.<br />
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The exit track is nice and varied. An easy scramble up a dry gully,<br />
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then a clear track to the top of the ridge (Chris as Samson),<br />
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and a nice scramble over an adjacent pagoda to regain the main track.<br />
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Here we are feeling very satisfied, with a beautiful view over the pagoda country of Gardens of Stone National Park and the gorge of the Wolgan River.<br />
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From here it was a 3km slog back to the carpark, and dinner in Katoomba. A great spring day, and hopefully the first of a long summer's canyon season.Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-91180921519813672252014-09-16T19:51:00.004+10:002014-09-16T20:00:14.826+10:00Bonnum Pic - an eventful daywalkWe have a surfeit of foreign visitors to our institution at present, many of whom were keen to come along for a daywalk to Bonnum Pic in the Southern Highlands. In the end we had a party of eight - the original Sons and five fellow travellers - two Italian, one French and two Brits. Three cars met on a grey morning in Mittagong, and after the inevitable faffing about with such a large group we arrived at the locked gate on Wangaderry Road at 10.00. By 11.30 we had reached the cliff line for a morning tea break, the drizzle having stopped and the cloud lifted enough to enjoy the magnificent views over the Wollondilly Valley.<br />
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The Brits decided that they would prefer a leisurely couple of hours enjoying the novel flora and fauna to the walk all the way to the Pic, but fearing further rain we decided to carry on to where they could hang out in a camping cave we had read about. We found this easily enough, located at Hilltop 474042. It's a very small overhang, but plenty to make a comfortable day shelter, and we set up the stove for tea and soup.<br />
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After lunch the remaining six set off at a brisk pace for the Pic. Thanks to our tardy start it was now 13.00 and with sunset at 17.30 we had a stiff walk in front of us. The whole walk is 16km return and we had about a third of this left to do in two hours to keep to schedule. The track to the cliff line had been fast - a heavily-signposted National Park trail, followed by a section of old fire trail - but from there on it is an increasingly indistinct footpad hopping over rock outcrops and up and down a deep gully before the final, thin rocky ridge out to the Pic. Navigation is fairly straightforward, as the sections where it is important to take the right route up or down the rocks are marked with cairns. There is one decent scramble, where we used a hand-line for safety on the way back.
The views become increasingly fine as the ridge narrows, with the cliffs of Wangaderry Walls to the east added to the views over the Wollondilly to the west.<br />
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The only image of the actual Pic in this post will be this <a href="http://www.panoramio.com/photo/737018">borrowed</a> one from the web, since on our return we discovered that our photographer had forgotten to insert an SD card! But this was not the most unfortunate event on this eventful day...<br />
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We reached the Pic at 14.05, and after a few photos we started back at 14.15, a negligible few minutes behind schedule. An hour later, however, disaster struck... One of the party lost her balance stepping up onto a rock, and sensibly saved herself by jumping back, only to find one leg collapse under her. There was no obvious break, but after some rest and a few trials it was clear she wasn't going any further that day. We found out later that she had ruptured an anterior cruciate ligament, and at the time the level of pain made it quite possible that there was a hairline fracture in one of the lower leg bones. Certainly, in the opinion of our two remote area first-aiders, it was time to call the cavalry and we activated our Personal Locator Beacon.<br />
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We also had to consider the two Brits waiting at the camping cave. Fortunately we had two or more of everything - map, compass, GPS, etc. So we left one first-aider and a French volunteer with the casualty while the other three headed back to the cave. By the time this party set off it was 16.00, just time to get back to the cars before it got fully dark. We only had four headlights with us, so walking in the dark would have been a pain. Reaching the cave they discovered that the two Brits, experienced outdoors people, had responded to our failure to arrive at the expected time in the right way - light a fire, brew more tea and await developments.<br />
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Meanwhile, back at the scene of the accident we had found just enough intermittent cellphone reception on the cliff edge to call 000 and report our location and the state of the casualty to supplement the PLB signal. The casualty was wrapped up warm under another small rock overhang in case of rain, with a fire just getting going. We were about to start purifying additional water from rock pools for the night when we heard the helicopter. With the PLB, smoke from the fire and an enthusiastic frenchwoman waving a blaze-orange pack cover from the top of a large rock we may have been one of the easier bushwalking parties to find!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUhWjaUuBfoFQDEZ_rd2hmQrICcNEDSlICSfct-feGugwt3I32Mm4G87dCn2bVRB0C3s1BJTYkhJK2TFw-rJeCs9BPMJlwbxcOFrugG5nfgSf_S9bLe6AzJCf5923Rl0C4prDmZ1UG2fFv/s1600/photo+1-1.jpeg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUhWjaUuBfoFQDEZ_rd2hmQrICcNEDSlICSfct-feGugwt3I32Mm4G87dCn2bVRB0C3s1BJTYkhJK2TFw-rJeCs9BPMJlwbxcOFrugG5nfgSf_S9bLe6AzJCf5923Rl0C4prDmZ1UG2fFv/s1600/photo+1-1.jpeg" height="640" width="480" /></a><br />
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The NSW Air Ambulance Service winched down a paramedic to a nearby rock platform, who assessed the casualty and got her ready to leave while we extinguished the fire. These blokes are consummate professionals - calm, cheerful, and exuding an air of competence. We were and remain amazingly grateful for the work they do, often in much more difficult and urgent circumstances than these. We sheltered in the rock overhang when the helicopter came down to winch them out. The downdraft (and the noise) is amazing - the wood pile we had assembled for the night blew away like dry grass, and my beanie blew off and away never to be seen again.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcuDXrb_GQjntuuliryAhS0QVvMxn8cDRYn5DyxtVtCXTGhANsC1Lj1qMjGmAAbrN5ol_xb5YKS0hB4JqkVKTNj45nWN_jdVWs4XhSAJgf0XGYg9cx2-YdOiV9PUm5LEzcMEKaNCiLNymJ/s1600/photo+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcuDXrb_GQjntuuliryAhS0QVvMxn8cDRYn5DyxtVtCXTGhANsC1Lj1qMjGmAAbrN5ol_xb5YKS0hB4JqkVKTNj45nWN_jdVWs4XhSAJgf0XGYg9cx2-YdOiV9PUm5LEzcMEKaNCiLNymJ/s640/photo+copy.jpg" height="640" width="478" /></a><br />
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After three trips up and down on the winch we were all on board the helicopter - barely an hour after activating the PLB. About 20m later we were on the helipad on the roof of Wollongong Hospital. This, of course, is <i>not</i> what you should expect when you activate a PLB in the bush! We were very close, as the crow flies, to the air ambulance base, there was a good amount of daylight left, and we had been able to establish cellphone contact to supplement the beacon, so there was no need for them to conduct an assessment before deciding what resources to send. Before we heard the chopper we were busy preparing to make ourselves as comfortable as possible for the night. We had warm clothes, thermal blankets, a reasonable amount of food, water, and a fire.<br />
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The rest of the party reached the cars shortly after we reached Wollongong, and then took on the heroic task of driving down to the 'gong and back to fetch us. Many thanks to all involved. The joke of the day involved people being awarded the Order of Lenin for heroic services to the state, and here are our three European visitors wearing theirs with pride in the pub the next day.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOHhbwXMxQO3B94QWqe384zG0Y1Ye8bZDUNKVf4ty7wm6RXhzlG-DJFGmv0V7CXpWa_OQA0LkMWtBzC1lIeG4MHqzq6xCc-_2xb_tdvRpZ1RMAKLds8o40_dr3lyDiDQgcC_wWEGLsRuoz/s1600/IMG_1285.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOHhbwXMxQO3B94QWqe384zG0Y1Ye8bZDUNKVf4ty7wm6RXhzlG-DJFGmv0V7CXpWa_OQA0LkMWtBzC1lIeG4MHqzq6xCc-_2xb_tdvRpZ1RMAKLds8o40_dr3lyDiDQgcC_wWEGLsRuoz/s1600/IMG_1285.jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a><br />
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Obviously, this wasn't the walk that was planned, and someone will be on crutches for a good while, but it all ended as well as possible in the circumstances, with some credit going to suitable training and equipment, some to everyone being level-headed and getting on with what needed to be done, but mostly due to the great guys at NSW Air Ambulance Service - thanks again!Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-512771244755849232014-07-23T12:05:00.001+10:002014-07-23T13:04:51.868+10:00Canyoning in Provence - a first tasteOne of the 'Sons...' had a few days annual leave in the Provencal Alps after a conference. Sadly, our usual photographer was not on this trip, but the scenery was magnificent enough to survive snap photography. This is the lower part of the Gorges du Verdon at dawn.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfvTM7_DwKHJ4LLSsd1_6V3O1um4zaFP0aybFHuYuywFkoAaB1Q7N1ZBnHP3AEjpwukX4Ut20J5DBTRI08YV_j9Nir5ewqegTTHEEGKJNw1a7r_CwHLUWylQVGrATbJ-va0T0y4AZoVzvR/s1600/P7180092.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfvTM7_DwKHJ4LLSsd1_6V3O1um4zaFP0aybFHuYuywFkoAaB1Q7N1ZBnHP3AEjpwukX4Ut20J5DBTRI08YV_j9Nir5ewqegTTHEEGKJNw1a7r_CwHLUWylQVGrATbJ-va0T0y4AZoVzvR/s640/P7180092.jpg" height="720" width="960" /></a><br />
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We were staying just where the vines, olives and truffle-oaks of the Var region meet the Alpes de Haute Provence - the very southern end of the European Alps. The Gorges du Verdon, usually billed as 'Europe's grand canyon', cuts its way through the limestone, and its tributaries and other small watercourses in the region create the 130 slot canyons described in loving detail on this section of the<a href="http://www.descente-canyon.com/canyoning/lieu/13/24/04-Alpes-de-Haute-Provence.html"> French canyoning site</a>.<br />
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The first kilometre or so of the Gorges belongs to the pedal boats and canoes hires coming up from Lac de St Croix, but after that the Gorges and its surrounds are the property of climbers, rafters and canyoners!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9C27sc2Guy2IIDsHQiCDu_tSxVub0Y4JhpAii5bwuRzgmA_I1gka_wKau83rzOzJHdwgEOZXIxWHtpiW0jxjDzNpuNCIosxQglzzaggzInYUWLcRwLzuxSOhWE0tzN0K7nP1vqxZ3A-Dj/s1600/P7200216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9C27sc2Guy2IIDsHQiCDu_tSxVub0Y4JhpAii5bwuRzgmA_I1gka_wKau83rzOzJHdwgEOZXIxWHtpiW0jxjDzNpuNCIosxQglzzaggzInYUWLcRwLzuxSOhWE0tzN0K7nP1vqxZ3A-Dj/s1600/P7200216.jpg" height="720" width="960" /></a></div>
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We stayed in Cotignac, a village built right up against, and in places into, a tufa cliff created by a long-vanished waterfall.<br />
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Some relatives were camping nearby on the patrimonial olive grove, where we spent most of our evenings, making it more like a real camping trip.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJnMFpzYTN2zIDHopu8KZ23IhLc2nZrJKTG9hfTUSNQMQv2QbWInOWYlrpGpIvZkTQI43NcnPz0zTjbfAOmEEPcSkw5h7ytIpvdSTRKxuLwD3SJI9EuPKIluO2vDvHES3g238FDXyd4OHM/s1600/P7150036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJnMFpzYTN2zIDHopu8KZ23IhLc2nZrJKTG9hfTUSNQMQv2QbWInOWYlrpGpIvZkTQI43NcnPz0zTjbfAOmEEPcSkw5h7ytIpvdSTRKxuLwD3SJI9EuPKIluO2vDvHES3g238FDXyd4OHM/s1600/P7150036.jpg" height="720" width="960" /></a><br />
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<span lang="EN-US">One of the people camping amongst the
olives was Peter C, my step-uncle (?) who featured in this blog a few years back when he visited
Australia. Peter is fitter in his 60s than I am
in my 50s, and an ideal wilderness companion. Because of the need to negotiate activities with other family members, we only managed a day and a half in the mountains, but that was enough for three small canyons and to get a sense of the extraordinary
diversity and quality of canyoning in this area. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Peter is a lifelong climber, and has often climbed in these hills, but he had not tried canyoning before. So we agreed
to begin with a straightforward scramble down a dry canyon to get ourselves on
the same wavelength. The Ravin du Notre Dame cuts through the cliffs just above
the village of Moustiers Sainte-Marie. A star hangs between the two limestone
pinnacles at the head of the ravine, and a church perches precariously on one
side, both erected by a medieval crusader in gratitude for the Virgin bringing
him home safely. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnWlghh6sdgDdA0AZcFNeNsPJ4PLl75RflyMvP5CVrXwLkP6QZNlkyuxavA_clzEW1i5th9qm_ildu8mjlgWT1YoBsK94uLz9WEU2VCDKBTcrysCIriFyTPbi7obHpik9bKHJ1apvx0Xjw/s1600/P7200208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnWlghh6sdgDdA0AZcFNeNsPJ4PLl75RflyMvP5CVrXwLkP6QZNlkyuxavA_clzEW1i5th9qm_ildu8mjlgWT1YoBsK94uLz9WEU2VCDKBTcrysCIriFyTPbi7obHpik9bKHJ1apvx0Xjw/s1600/P7200208.jpg" height="720" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">It’s a very touristical village, but as
usual ten minutes walking up the ravine found us in complete solitude. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_i2UlMhdUI5VPrqJTJ7BJB3t3IpQCNX14xwlZIaIB4xAgF8Q8RYQtu2g9Uo-YCqx14E3OM6fzvtGJehr2UizNhXfPl0KWV5zxnbQnC3Yn0pDNWWpL3aPgnmvGzSyPY8kj666mWMfRIRL/s1600/P7160050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_i2UlMhdUI5VPrqJTJ7BJB3t3IpQCNX14xwlZIaIB4xAgF8Q8RYQtu2g9Uo-YCqx14E3OM6fzvtGJehr2UizNhXfPl0KWV5zxnbQnC3Yn0pDNWWpL3aPgnmvGzSyPY8kj666mWMfRIRL/s1600/P7160050.jpg" height="720" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">It was ferociously hot, and we were glad to
reach the top and drop into the little slot that begins the canyon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The rest of the canyon is very open, and
proved straightforward. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3QGIyX-svbbnwTo_Lzq1zjegKdsNerFrvzT96aMhNginRq2lWLIYCf55xlLNc0MXao3cR-wVWIXIhBmDq-AbslX4I2KSReEYhW-CLQH8zK-ILdoJr3K-BdT1Q6Z-ElR1o5oGr0b4AnkZV/s1600/015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3QGIyX-svbbnwTo_Lzq1zjegKdsNerFrvzT96aMhNginRq2lWLIYCf55xlLNc0MXao3cR-wVWIXIhBmDq-AbslX4I2KSReEYhW-CLQH8zK-ILdoJr3K-BdT1Q6Z-ElR1o5oGr0b4AnkZV/s1600/015.jpg" height="960" width="720" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Finishing in the middle of the village and
being able to have a cold beer straight after removing our harnesses was a real
novelty!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiupFAKYycpADvQhJS3CqtsByTMXkGmovd0sqo1H3XAThiX9FMrYf0XDbD6e8dadmS_pDhypBYUuTlkC_9Sn65eBcZmUQZWQp4lBLnZzHkun2aFEyjYBpp3SRL07VqybDh0SNm8PxctbHV/s1600/P7160049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiupFAKYycpADvQhJS3CqtsByTMXkGmovd0sqo1H3XAThiX9FMrYf0XDbD6e8dadmS_pDhypBYUuTlkC_9Sn65eBcZmUQZWQp4lBLnZzHkun2aFEyjYBpp3SRL07VqybDh0SNm8PxctbHV/s1600/P7160049.jpg" height="960" width="720" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Two days later we were up at dawn to avoid
the heat and drove up the left bank of the Gorges du Verdon. This is the view
down, about 400m, to the Verdon river near the Ravin d’Artuby, a popular non-technical
canyoning trip.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">We started with a small canyon on the
Jabron river, near the tiny medieval village of Trigance. Like a lot of the
canyons here, it is more or less straight off the road into the canyon, which
is a real treat.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />
This was Peter's first jump - something that to a climber looks like a very dubious way to get down a slope!<br />
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<div class="MsoNormal">
There was very little water flowing, but
plenty of big, clear pools – containing large numbers of tiny frogs.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSmJQXHDBj-EeUcowlpht_SMlCzt29oVrTvHDnzokIyMJWP3ktwc7-viBss-SZ4kA7cseiyNZ1UbPJj8BQ31MZGVaiu3bEPNrPbB_1ZLSJngumTZy-5Qb8eMKQK3SFdFHzIzGCRA9TELB9/s1600/029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSmJQXHDBj-EeUcowlpht_SMlCzt29oVrTvHDnzokIyMJWP3ktwc7-viBss-SZ4kA7cseiyNZ1UbPJj8BQ31MZGVaiu3bEPNrPbB_1ZLSJngumTZy-5Qb8eMKQK3SFdFHzIzGCRA9TELB9/s1600/029.jpg" height="960" width="720" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">All too soon the constriction was over and
a little later we emerged at the Pont du Sautet – a pretty little bridge
carrying one of the many hiking trails through these mountains.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghWEoGdZKc1wx7h2Qm0eZhtGpeI30GI1WsTcxrWsxHnlfJFlIXKV21UozFJyap4z6x87j01EeJ6qe3XFqLnfUL-zaQH2knRGpcGJi-AH-4VcxV-PniaZeJXI1locarele-1KbTqP3v31m-/s1600/035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghWEoGdZKc1wx7h2Qm0eZhtGpeI30GI1WsTcxrWsxHnlfJFlIXKV21UozFJyap4z6x87j01EeJ6qe3XFqLnfUL-zaQH2knRGpcGJi-AH-4VcxV-PniaZeJXI1locarele-1KbTqP3v31m-/s1600/035.jpg" height="720" width="960" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Even though we were now at around 1500m it
was getting ferociously hot again, so we decided to take a siesta. Crossing the
Verdon at Pont du Soleils, an ancient stone bridge at the top of the gorge, we
slept in the shade by the river for a couple of hours and had a swim in the
freezing waters of the Verdon to wake us up, followed by a roadside espresso
with this view back into the gorge. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Driving back down the right bank of the
gorge we stopped in La Palud sur Verdon, the local centre for rock climbing, as
this café sign makes clear (that's Provencal, not French, hence the 'lou'). We guessed correctly that anywhere catering to
climbers would have free wifi, and we used this to explore the canyon site
looking for a good option for the afternoon. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">As we feared, our options were severely
restricted by only having one 60m rope. All the famous canyons near here have rappel
pitches of 50m or more. So eventually we drove back towards Moustier and dropped
into the little Ravin de Balene. Out of consideration for the car, we
stopped when the road got rough and walked the last kilometer, but if you carry
on you can park 100m from the constriction - luxury. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisKZLh8pFJnx3J_QjYZmORrlwhEHSi518Pq3SXrF-ERaq__gVrBT0f1ierfI6o-UBUBG51k1sOx2jzMVsxm8Lkv0mjB4MV2HucsPDGh91AzqS-LohhyKNthkUtRugMeydhV68WgaCKA4Cx/s1600/IMG_1254.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisKZLh8pFJnx3J_QjYZmORrlwhEHSi518Pq3SXrF-ERaq__gVrBT0f1ierfI6o-UBUBG51k1sOx2jzMVsxm8Lkv0mjB4MV2HucsPDGh91AzqS-LohhyKNthkUtRugMeydhV68WgaCKA4Cx/s1600/IMG_1254.jpg" height="960" width="720" /></a></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">We both thought this canyon was severely
underrated – the French site only gives it 1.8 out of 4. It is only a few hundred
meters long, but it is a continuous, deep, beautifully sculpted constriction,
never more than a couple of metres wide and with half a dozen fun, wet rappels. Size is not
everything.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRjm_R2QQJhh-Mh42FrJTqQfuQjHqeptuX1vMvi9YwWR1CKUuI18N3ENZqbOuwb-16RZo3EqUiD95yFXOggKFAuv7KGFFe1cg_sGbzX6dFlnNGyWKCWcascmRrBTBGDxep9CPfPfFq5IG/s1600/IMG_1266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRjm_R2QQJhh-Mh42FrJTqQfuQjHqeptuX1vMvi9YwWR1CKUuI18N3ENZqbOuwb-16RZo3EqUiD95yFXOggKFAuv7KGFFe1cg_sGbzX6dFlnNGyWKCWcascmRrBTBGDxep9CPfPfFq5IG/s1600/IMG_1266.jpg" height="960" width="720" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">This was far too little time to enjoy this
paradise, and I have a serious ambition to return with more time and more
equipment. But for now, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">a bient</i></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;">ô</span><span lang="EN-US">t Provence!</span></i><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-66302842487075578092014-06-23T18:57:00.002+10:002014-06-25T14:24:48.587+10:00Boars Head with ShandyShandy is a Blue Mountains classic climb, described in the climbing guide as 'once every boy scout's rite of passage'. It is a multi-pitch Grade 8 sport climb back up the other side of the equally classic Boars Head abseil route. It requires a competent lead climber, who has to establish a hanging belay between the first two pitches. An offer by two climbing friends from Canberra to come and lead enabled us to take it on, and the misty Sunday morning after the Winter Solstice found three very inexperienced climbers at Boars Head at around 10.00, together with these two intrepid leaders:<br />
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Just as we arrived the cloud rolled in, but we abseiled down into the gully in the fog anyway hoping that it would clear and stop drizzling, as climbing wet rock did not seem advisable.<br />
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We soon had a safety line rigged up to traverse the slot between Boars Head and the outer buttress, and Geoff was first to abseil down the slot.<br />
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From the platform in the slot we watched the clouds continued to roll through, occasionally enveloping us in mist.<br />
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Undaunted, we did the third abseil down the second half of the slot.<br />
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Finally, as we reached the bottom of the fourth abseil the mist cleared and we walked out into brilliant sunshine. Good to go!<br />
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A short stroll around the corner and a scramble of a few metres up a gully and we were staring up at Shandy.<br />
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Geoff led the first pitch of 33m to the belay ledge, trailing two ropes for Paul and Elena to follow on belay. The route up is mostly on carrots, as is the anchor, so bolt plates are needed.<br />
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After that it was a long period of 'take on Green' and 'breaking anchor, more slack on blue' as the two beginners followed him up simultaneously. No photos from this, unfortunately, as they had the cameras. Paul and Elena tied in on the ledge and Elena belayed Geoff as he led the second, 14 metre diagonal pitch, and then followed him up, leaving the ledge empty for the next group.<br />
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Meanwhile, Chris was leading the first pitch, trailing a single rope for Tom. This is Chris reaching the belay ledge. <br />
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Tom joining Chris and setting up to belay him up the second pitch.<br />
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Elena hanging out at the top of the second pitch.<br />
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Paul belaying Geoff as he put in a safety line on the exit ledge from the top of the second pitch. The whole of the scrambling route out is bolted for safety lines, but this first bit really calls for some protection.<br />
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Chris reaching the top of the second pitch and setting up to belay Tom.<br />
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Tom was left standing on the belay ledge for quite a long time. It is lonely out there...<br />
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Finally, he was on belay and could start climbing again.<br />
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This stitched together shot (thanks David) gives a good overview of the whole face of the outer buttress. The cracks above where we are sitting is Shandy Direct Finish (Trad 14 and well beyond our abilities) and above that is the abseil slot. In the left foreground is the exit ledge.</div>
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And here, finally, is Boars Head Rock in the early winter sunset. From this side it really lives up to its name. We could not find the optional, third pitch, although there were several plausible options (perhaps it is not bolted?) so we took the scrambling route - which turned out to be good fun in itself. With a lot of hanging around, congratulating ourselves, and taking photos like this it was 5.00 and nearly dark when we reached the cars. It was a truly memorable day. Many thanks to Chris and Geoff for their coaching and patience.</div>
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<br /></div>Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-36993991368095289792014-06-13T15:44:00.001+10:002014-06-13T18:27:55.335+10:00Winter in The Budawangs 2014 - WITB6<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Well it's the sixth annual (we did miss one year) Winter in the Budawangs; that marvellous wilderness in the Morton and Budawangs National Parks. This year the plan was a bit different: rather than one of our ambitious through walks from one end of the park to another, our plan was to set up a base camp and make the ambition be to get to a number of peaks: The Castle, Nibelung, Cole, Owen and Donjon Mountain.<br />
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After staying the night in Milton we arrived at Long Gully in time to head out before the other parties. This secured for us the camping cave at Coyoyo Creek: we knew there was the possibility of a day of rain, and a cave makes that much more bearable than hunkering down in tents for the whole day, or climbing rocks in the slippery wet.<br />
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All went to plan and we made good time to Coyoyo creek, and secured said cave, though sadly it isn't big enough for a party of eight to set up all their sleep systems. But at least it was there in case of daytime need, and sleeping in a tent in the rain is oddly soothing.<br />
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We got there in time to see the view from Coyoyo Creek campsite, one of the most iconic in the Budawangs. Here is Arnaud, a new postdoc at our University, on his first introduction the Australian bush:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-kdPxM6g/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-kdPxM6g/0/1050x1050/_DSC4627-1050x1050.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
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We then headed up the Castle, taking the track from the saddle above the campsite. We started at the usual point, where we had often ascended before, and one of us only a few months previously. But it soon seemed a little more difficult that we recalled. That will teach us to send Dean the climber on ahead - we had followed a route to the right of the usual scramble and a little closer to climbing than some of us found comfortable - out with the rope!<br />
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There were two climbs that for most of us required roping up. Here's one of us climbing up with a belay as backup:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-R4cq8Pp/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-R4cq8Pp/0/L/P6070022-L.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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It took a long time to get the whole party up these climbs, and with the short winter day it was time to turn back. Here's a view from where we got to, which some of us recalled as a place you could get to without even a serious scramble:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-chXJKJj/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-chXJKJj/0/1050x1050/_DSC4628-1050x1050.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
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On the way down we easily found the usual way up to the left of the way we had come, making the descent was a matter of minutes rather than a couple of hours! Most of us abseiled down the way we had come as a consolation prize given that we couldn't make it to the top in the available light.<br />
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The next day we headed for Donjon Mountain. Soon we came to the iconic chains that take you into the Nibelung Pass:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-hbHrVZL/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-hbHrVZL/0/L/P6080033-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
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Here's one of us climbing:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-kqTdXJc/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-kqTdXJc/0/L/P6080042-L.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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It was then into the Monolith Valley, with only a brief stop to look at the view:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-WqNqK7v/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-WqNqK7v/0/1050x1050/_DSC4639-Edit-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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It's really an impressive place:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-7r8WstG/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-7r8WstG/0/1050x1050/_DSC4645%20Panorama-1050x1050.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
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Then we headed to the west of the valley via the Green Room:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-HmrgCBk/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-HmrgCBk/0/L/P6080067-L.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Just towards the end of the valley, a few hundred metres from Sunset Cave we headed into the bush following brief directions given to us by the friendly souls at Shoalhaven Bushwalking Club. But this proved impenetrable bushbashing and soon we were back at the track where we started: there was an issue of interpretation of the directions. We were meant to head along the southern side of Donjon Mt and the famous Budawangs sketch map marks the whole collection of pinnacles north of Monolith Valley as Donjon Mt. However, Donjon Mt more properly refers only to the largest peak at the far end. So we headed off towards Sunset Cave looking for a track.<br />
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Soon we came to a piece of paper pinned to a tree and indicating the track to Donjon Mountain! But at this point we realised that there was likely again not enough light to reach the mountain, especially not at our current pace. So the slowest members of the party broke off to explore the cave and the slopes of Nibelung. There did indeed turn out to be not enough time to attempt a climb of Donjon, but at least the fast party got to the foot of the mountain to scout it out for next time.<br />
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Here are a couple of us on the return sitting on the lovely bridge at the beginning of the Green Room:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-xnpRwWx/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-xnpRwWx/0/1050x1050/_DSC4658-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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And here is one of us having scrambled up into the natural arch:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-BQNtWVH/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-BQNtWVH/0/L/P6080098-L.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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When we got back 'home' there was a lovely view from the camp site lookout:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-d6Zz3Jt/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-d6Zz3Jt/0/1050x1050/_DSC4676%20Panorama-1050x1050.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
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The next day was, as predicted, far to wet for scrambling. What little text we had was in strong demand. The two francophones (francographs?) in the party were unmolested as their reading matter couldn't be shared usefully; but Adrian's copy of a tome on early Australian archeology was surprisingly popular in virtue of having words on paper.<br />
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So we settled in for a day in the cave. Much tea was consumed. Compulsory relaxation is a rare privilege and we ended up thinking of this as a highlight of the trip.<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-ZcZh6Fg/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-ZcZh6Fg/0/L/P6090118-L.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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The next morning it was raining again, so that pretty much ruled out a climb, and we packed up and headed out. Here we are at the end, tired and happy, and meeting our first leeches of the trip!<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-xTzNF5B/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/WITB-2014/i-xTzNF5B/0/1050x1050/_DSC4683-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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We may not have gained our peaks, but a good time was had by all, and they will wait for us until next year!<br />
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DBMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02267044904600856553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-14336675570945384582014-03-04T15:20:00.001+11:002014-03-04T15:20:18.083+11:00Bushwalking camera gear: a post for photo nerds only (ironically with no photos)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Regular readers of the blog have sometimes asked what kind of camera gear is used to capture the images taken by the usual photographer (who is responsible for most but not all the photos on this site). That's me by the way: the usual photographer.<br />
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Often I have been tempted (and have sometimes given into that temptation) to loftily say that it's of no importance, it's the photographer not the camera etc etc. That is of course largely true; but only largely true. I sometimes look at some of the pictures and wish I had had a better camera with me on that particular trip.<br />
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Having just switched to using the full-frame Sony A7r camera with Zeiss FE lenses, it seemed like a good time to have a little retrospective which could also act as bit of a mini review of the A7 stuff for outdoor purposes.<br />
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Retrospective: for a long time I was using Canon gear; briefly some APSC stuff (40 and 50ds) but then a long period with the 5D Mk 1I and later Mk III and mountains of canon glass. But I never had the stamina to carry say 5kg of cameras and lenses, or 2 if a stripped down kit, on long trips. SO at most it got outings on overnight walks. The result? Lovely images on urban travel (though it was still a lot to take around); wonderful quality in the home studio; but a serious compact on longer trips. The consequence was that perhaps most of my favourite images had so-so IQ. That got better: over half a dozen years I went from a Ricoh GX100 to a Panasonic LX3 to a Canon S90 to a Sony RX100. But state of the art as these were in their days for a RAW compact, only the RX100 wasn't noticeably worse even on the web than a larger format camera.<br />
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At some point I began to experiment with M43 cameras: the early Olympus ones and then a few Panasonics (GX1, GH2). These were a lot nicer than the compacts, and small enough to pack on a real trip.<br />
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But what this meant was that I never took the full frame stuff with me! So my lovely 5D Mk III was relegated to dog action photos in the park (for which purpose I still miss it and it's amazing tracking focus, though it is a big investment just for that) and pictures around town and home that I ws increasingly taking just to justify owning that nice gear.<br />
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When the Olympus OMD came out, I got one. And the sensor was so much better than the previous ones, that I felt it was time to get out of full frame and cash in my chips. So onto ebay went all the FF camera gear. (Actually I couldn't bear to part with the 17mm TSE lens and a couple of others, which turns out to have been wise). And it meant I could justify some nice M43 glass.<br />
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So entered the only M43 phase. It seemed to make sense, but I did miss the file quality that a full frame sensor gives you.<br />
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Then out came the Sony A7 series. The A7r has likely the same monster sensor as the D800E in a body the size of the biggest OMD. So small enough to carry. I couldn't resist.<br />
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Lenses, though, are much bigger.<br />
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The pretty nice (if a little iffy in the extreme corners at the wide end) Zeiss 24-70 f4 is only 100g heavier than the Panasonic 12-35 f2.8 I was using, though a bit bulkier. But I thought that might do. F4 gives you the shallow depth of field of an F2 M43 lens, so it allows a little more background softening than any M43 zoom permits.<br />
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The most recent post is the first from the new camera. Am I convinced? Overall yes. I think I'll stick with the system. The files are very nice. I think even at web resolution you can pick the micro contrast and colour bit depth, though maybe I'm kidding myself. Printed or on a large monitor it's amazing. Of course the extra resolution is not visible on a 1050 wide blog photo.<br />
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So I'll switch; but it wouldn't be mad not to: here are some considerations in favour of keeping with M43 for these purposes that you need to be sure are outweighed by the advantages of the A7 for your purposes.<br />
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First, and obvious, is the converse of the nice shallow depth of field you can get. If you actually want deep depth of field, f5.6 on M43 is the equivalent of f11 on full frame. That's two stops more light you need. Of course the FF has better low light performance, but what it means is that if you were using ISO200 on M43 you need ISO 800 on FF; and ISO 800 on FF is in fact not that much better than ISO 200 on M43, so in those conditions (which are by no means most, but they do occur) some of the benefit is gone - though you still get that resolution boost.<br />
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Second is lenses. If you start to think about extra lenses you might take on your M43 - an ultra wide zoom like the panny 7-14 or a long macro like the Oly 60 - the equivalents aren't yet available in FE mount, and when they are will likely be a lot heavier. So taking extra glass along is less doable. Also, the pancake primes for M43 are as a set a lot easier to take with you than equivalent FF lenses.<br />
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Finally technique and focussing. The IBIS in the OMD is so good that I have just got used to firing at will and getting sharp results. Not so the A7r; the combination of the extra resolution, and the lack of inbuilt stabilisation for the lenses that don't have it, means that you have to take care. Careful posture, attention to breathing, or a tripod, or higher shutter speeds (and concomitant higher ISO that bites into the quality advantage. I used to often take a few shots on the OMD as a matter of habit from the old 5D days, usually to find that they were all equally sharp and shake free. With the A7 this habit has served me well. I haven't found a real issue with shutter shake. But remember, if a little shutter shock does make things worse at say 1/80 of a second. It is unlikely to lower the effective resolution below the 16MP of the OMD!<br />
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So will I be sticking with the new system? Yes; the image quality is amazing, and I prefer the controls to the EM5 (the EM1 looks yummy in that regard, though)<br />
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But if I really wanted to carry a whole system of macro, long lenses, and ultrawides etc on long trips I'd be less sure. But for backpacking I generally take a standard zoom and one other (macro if the flowers are good, or ultra, or a nice prime to use in places where a zoom is cumbersome) and at that level it's working for me.....<br />
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DBMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02267044904600856553noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-39451611480773911072014-03-02T16:22:00.001+11:002014-03-05T17:25:01.268+11:00Five Nights along the Wilderness Coast<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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For a while the wonderful wilderness zone near the border of NSW and Victoria has been in our sights as a possible walk. This is a string of national parks and wilderness areas, perhaps most famously East Gippsland's Croajingolong National Park. Our initial plan was to walk from Mallacoota, spending two nights near Harry's Hut giving us a chance to go inland for a bit and climb Mount Nadgee, and then walk out via the Merrica River Ranger Station where we would be picked by the very helpful Steve Weixel of Mallacoota Explorer Tours. We heard, however that there was no water in the park at this time of year! We were even informed by the Parks Office responsible for this part of the coast (in Merrimbula) that there would be no fresh water in Lake Barracoota! This surprised us, as Barracoota is the largest freshwater coastal lake in Victoria! Steve spoke to some hikers coming out of the walk, and there was water in Barracoota (of course) and he passed on detailed instructions on where all available water was. There was a small problem, though. No water for what were to have been our last two days. Some of us were happy to concatenate this into one longish walk carrying all available water, but others were a bit concerned about this so we decided instead to go as far as the Hut, and then walk back, talking in the lakes and so on in reverse. We felt a bit bad about cancelling Steve's pickup after he had been so helpful: but we had a lot of dealings with him and recommend him highly.<br />
Anyway after along drive down from Sydney, picking up one of our number who had flown in to Merrimbula on the way, we crashed at a motel (The Blue Wren, a pleasant and roomy hostelry run by a preternaturally cheerful proprietor called Joe) and got ready to meet Simon Buckley, our excellent and highly reccomended boaty, at 8am.<br />
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After about fifty minutes we got off at the jetty near a parks research station: time the traditional walk start group shot:<br />
<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-D4mp45f/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-D4mp45f/0/1050x1050/_DSC0123-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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We then swiftly walked through rather lovely coastal forest: huge eucalypts and banksia until we hit the beach, and then marched up with the beach until reaching wonderful dunes that guard Lake Barracoota. Following the directions to cut across the dunes at an angle we began our traverse of the dunescape:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-QdTthth/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-QdTthth/0/1050x1050/_DSC0138-Edit-2-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
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Soon the lake hoved into view:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-9QFQn52/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-9QFQn52/0/1050x1050/_DSC0137-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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It was at about this time that someone pointed out that two of us were dressed in colours which, when combined with the dunescape, made the Sons of the Desert moniker especially appropriate!<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-NT3fDhD/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-NT3fDhD/0/1050x1050/_DSC0141-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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When we hit the water the first thing on many people's mind was a swim: here's the path out through the reeds into the wonderfully pure water of the lake, easily the best water of the trip whether for drinking (after purification) or swimming:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-MBJcsf8/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-MBJcsf8/0/1050x1050/_DSC0143-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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The lakeshore was a magical landscape, with a combination of water, sand and reeds that has a very Japanese aesthetic:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-x8mSLSh/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-x8mSLSh/0/1050x1050/_DSC0144-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-rdtvHZR/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-rdtvHZR/0/1050x1050/_DSC0146-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Beautiful it was; but it was also hot and without shelter so after lunch we set off again planning to camp at Lake Wau Waka. Very soon we came to the wreck of the SS Riverina, a steam passenger ship that was wrecked in 1927 (all passagers survived this one and walked back to Mallacoota)<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-dZtVmhr/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-dZtVmhr/0/1050x1050/_DSC0148-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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An hour or so further on we got to Lake Wau Waka; which is also a supply of fresh water. Interestingly it has a relatively narrow sand bar separating it from the beach, but stays fresh because it is fed fresh water from a creek, which then flows under the sand and into the sea. Seasoned Sons readers will know what happens when water flows under sand: quicksand! Keep away from the lake side of the sandbar!<br />
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When we arrived we met a party of half a dozen blokes from Melbourne who formed a running club that had morphed into a bushwalking group. They pointed us to the little wooden structure they optimistically called a 'jetty' which was the best place to gather water. I strolled over there for water and photography as dusk settled in:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-3NqJF45/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-3NqJF45/0/1050x1050/_DSC0155-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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These guys also told me that there had been spectacular sunrise that morning (they were having a rest day after the big walk in) so next morning I got up to have a look. After nothing much at actual dawn, just a few minutes later the sun was visible through a band of cloud that made it look for all the world like a gas giant:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-mgZMVbp/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-mgZMVbp/0/1050x1050/_DSC0184-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Then it was time to pack up quickly, and the party headed back around the lake to make for the beach:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-SWJpbC4/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-SWJpbC4/0/1050x1050/_DSC0189-Edit-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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It was only an hour or so to the border of NSW and Victoria, where there is a wonderful border cairn at which I imagine all parties photograph themselves:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-BLrZV5C/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-BLrZV5C/0/1050x1050/_DSC0197-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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There was also a series of trig stations going inland that look as though they go all the way to the point where the Murray starts to be the border line!<br />
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The next destination was a stop at Lake Nadgee where we were told we would find no water. Indeed we didn't. But it's very lovely: here's a view from inland where the camp site is out to the sand bar.<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-RNmrZpX/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-RNmrZpX/0/1050x1050/_DSC0204-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Then couple of us went on a water scouting expedition. No water; we did however meet a few black snakes, that scudded off into the water where they swam with great virtuosity. It gave us pause to think we had been swimming there. Here's one of us coming back from the water trip:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-vwmHDSW/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-vwmHDSW/0/1050x1050/_DSC0210-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Since there was no water (as expected) we headed inland to Harry's Hut on the Nadgee river which we were told was the only permanent source of water in the area. We went inside to be greeted by many bold rats, well before dusk! We pitched our tents well away from the hut!<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-m4nQDbm/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-m4nQDbm/0/1050x1050/Harrys%20Hut-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Here are Adrian and Kirsten having a nice lie down and hiding from the insects (which weren't that bad; I think it was horizontality that they craved)<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-tLwXVnX/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-tLwXVnX/0/1050x1050/_DSC0224-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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An unusual feature of this camp site was the presence of a couple of what might have been birders or hunters hides, and an outdoor toilet. I was very pleased by the toilet, though some who went off to it came back puzzled that I hadn't mentioned that it was completely open:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-RBjgHmJ/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-RBjgHmJ/0/1050x1050/_DSC0230-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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We then headed up to Little River which was to be as far north as we went. We left Adrian for a while at a junction to reduce use of his boots. His two year old Scarpa boots were popping their rivets where the lace loops are held on. As far as we could tell the problem was rust; which means that the real problem was cheap steel. Not impressive for $300 boots!<br />
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Here's one of us consulting a map at little river:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-trkFSjg/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-trkFSjg/0/1050x1050/_DSC0238-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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And another just admiring it:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-wprfmtv/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-wprfmtv/0/1050x1050/_DSC0239-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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It's a very lovely campsite here too; when there is water it'd be a great place to spend some time. Here's the edge of the river:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-pkW5pQq/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-pkW5pQq/0/1050x1050/_DSC0242-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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And here is a wonderful camp table made from an old door that graces the campsite:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-MSSVWBW/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-MSSVWBW/0/1050x1050/_DSC0243-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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We now headed south towards the soak at Nadgee beach; this would give us a different route back to Lake Nadgee where we planned to camp, lugging our water from the soak to the camp. The walk began with one of these remarkable tunnels through leptospermum forest:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-9xdtzJ8/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-9xdtzJ8/0/1050x1050/_DSC0247-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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We then started to power on. We had planned to take in Osprey Lookout, but managed to forget about it. Very fortunately one of us saw the side path, and we started to wonder what it was for (it was a narrow tunnel through ti-tree) when we realised of course it was the lookout track.<br />
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Here's Adrian capering on the cliff edge:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-FdJ2LMd/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-FdJ2LMd/0/1050x1050/_DSC0251-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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And here's the view itself, giving a view to Eden and beyond:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-vDkwHgs/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-vDkwHgs/0/1050x1050/_DSC0254-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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On our way back we were rewarded with a particularly fantasy novel like tree tunnel!<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-TZRMg9B/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-TZRMg9B/0/1050x1050/_DSC0257-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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We then moved on to the soak. At the turnoff we found a black snake that didn't move for ages and we had to keep an eye on it.<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-Mtx86hZ/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-Mtx86hZ/0/1050x1050/_DSC0261-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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We then went to the soak: at this point our (borrowed!) pump broke. I imagine the water was too tannin, so it clogged, and then the extra pressure required snapped it. Not impressive. We then had to scoop into a muddy hole to get water.<br />
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After loading up with the water and treating it, we headed off back to Lake Nadgee and set up camp. At dusk I wandered off in search of a sunset. Nothing kitsch to be found, but did get a nice view of the lake just after the sun went down:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-FGPTnc5/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-FGPTnc5/0/1050x1050/_DSC0270-Edit-2-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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And near the camp I ran into a tired camper who clearly needed to be in her sleeping bag!<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-Cqt5sqC/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-Cqt5sqC/0/1050x1050/_DSC0276-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Next morning it was back onto the beach!<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-ZX2jW2X/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-ZX2jW2X/0/1050x1050/_DSC0282-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Here we are wondering exactly where the quicksand is:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-xSXTJWK/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-xSXTJWK/0/1050x1050/_DSC0286-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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And here is an uninspiring record shot of the whole lake from the north east to say farewell to it:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-GCkqL3g/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-GCkqL3g/0/1050x1050/_DSC0287%20Panorama-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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One of the delights of the rest of the walk back to Lake Wau Waka is the heathland. At the right time of year it would be a blaze of flowers. But even now in late summer it was not disappointing. There was a Banksia I saw that I was puzzled by, not exactly like any I knew. On return I looked up the area and indeed it might be <i>Banksia</i> croajingolensis, a newly described (2000) species found only in these heaths!<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-tNHxfHV/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-tNHxfHV/0/1050x1050/_DSC0298-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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We very soon came to Bunyip Hole, which is a water source for many. But at this time of year there was less even than at the beach soak, barely a centimetre:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-jbC6R7w/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-jbC6R7w/0/1050x1050/_DSC0303-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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After some more heath walking it was back to the beach. Here are Adrian and Kirsten with some big ships in the background:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-2RbbXcL/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-2RbbXcL/0/1050x1050/_DSC0305-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Some of the dunes you pass on the beach are amazing:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-9QkNSkC/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-9QkNSkC/0/1050x1050/_DSC0312-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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It didn't seem long before we were at Lake Wau Waka where we had the luxury of spending the whole afternoon lazing (actually one of us took off on a GPS training expedition). Before leaving she found this lovely terrapin. Here's a photo on her hand for scale:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-qdrSzSK/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-qdrSzSK/0/1050x1050/_DSC0313-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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And then here it is extending its head and heading off:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-jSsCd8z/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-jSsCd8z/0/1050x1050/_DSC0321-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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With a minimum of handling we put it back near the water.<br />
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As I lazed away the afternoon I got to examine some of the wash that people had gathered in the campsite to act as furniture and art. I think this bike must have been the latter:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-K54hTKn/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-K54hTKn/0/1050x1050/_DSC0327-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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The trainee doing unnecessary ks was soon back and headed to the water:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-X9jW67r/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-X9jW67r/0/1050x1050/_DSC0329-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Here's a sign at this campsite that sums up what's important on this walk!<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-WqXJ9GS/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-WqXJ9GS/0/1050x1050/_DSC0337-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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And here we celebrate her extra kilometres!<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-9F8zfqJ/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-9F8zfqJ/0/1050x1050/_DSC0340-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Next morning it was time to head off again, and make for Lake Barracoota. Our plan was to fill up with water there, and cart it to the jetty so we could camp there ready for our pickup from Simon early in the morning. Getting to Barracoota meant more dunes to cross!<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-7DpHsLw/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-7DpHsLw/0/1050x1050/_DSC0348-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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We freshened up and had a huge lunch at Barracoota, and then headed back to the Jetty. We were really motoring along! More by chance than design we had pretty good tides for most of our beach walking, and so found good firm sand. It might be worth some design next time, though.<br />
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When we got the site near the jetty it looked as if it would rain so we quickly got the tents up. Only then did we discover that there were many Inchman ants under our tent! One of them gave me a nasty bite. These are really big ants! There was no flat space to move the tent to, so we created an exclusion barrier with DEET.<br />
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This might be a good point to say that no-one found a tick while on the walk. Very lucky, and unusual, though I suppose Spring is peak season. Mossies weren't bad either. The worst flying things were the tiny midges at this last camp. There were however tons of snakes. In addition to the many black snakes, we saw something that was either a copperhead or a brown (looked like the former, but more unlikely this low). At one point crossing a bridge just before this last camp site I almost put my foot down on a blacksnake, before it scuttled away just in time!<br />
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We were up before dawn to get ready for pick up. Here are Adrian and Kirsten admiring the view:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-52kdhWz/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-52kdhWz/0/1050x1050/A%20and%20Kirsten-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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And here's Kristie scanning the area while a fishing boat goes past:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-VPRN3pk/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-VPRN3pk/0/1050x1050/_DSC0354-Edit-3-1050x1050.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
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And to revert to cheese, here's the traditional parting shot:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-MbF3djK/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-MbF3djK/0/1050x1050/_DSC0358-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
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And here's Simon the boatman arriving to pick us up!<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-STzkT5V/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Wilderness-Coast-2014/i-STzkT5V/0/1050x1050/_DSC0364-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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A lovely walk, thanks to all! I think it could become regular: best way to do it would be up at dawn for a good 20 ks every day, and then get to camp by midday where you can all laze around with a good book on a light kindle! Also you get the best sites that way!<br />
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DBMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02267044904600856553noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-37228668924403295562014-02-15T18:25:00.000+11:002014-02-16T08:47:33.508+11:00Taking to the canyonsIn line with our (loose) policy of not blogging daywalks this is a multi-trip post to note that some of the sons and daughters have taken to the canyons. One great thing about canyoning is that it can turn a daywalk into a real wilderness experience. It's also ideal when it's just too hot for any normal form of bushwalking, as it has been in February. Apologies for the poor quality photos.<br />
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Here is the Holy Tree that marks the track to Juggler's Canyon near Blackheath:<br />
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It is occupied by two Dryads.<br />
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Karola on one of the abseils in Jugglers - her first canyon trip.<br />
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It is a learning experience - one important thing is not to drop your belay device into the plunge pool at the bottom of a waterfall, necessitating diving for it.<br />
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Elena belaying Karola on the final abseil in Jugglers.<br />
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Next week we did Serendipity Canyon, one with a more genuinely canyon-like constricted section. It was 32C up top, making the cool canyon a very desirable place to be.<br />
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This means swimming some section...<br />
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... and abseiling down waterfalls in the dark.<br />
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Paul coiling the rope.<br />
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Daniela on the next abseil...<br />
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...into a deep pool... <br />
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and finally the light at the end of the tunnel.<br />
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<br />Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-85055674971332911092014-01-28T19:12:00.001+11:002014-02-09T17:14:13.562+11:00Mt Anne Circuit: Success at Last!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Welcome to the 50th post of the Sons of the Desert Bushwalking Blog!<br />
The Sons, or at least various subsets of them, have been to Mt Anne a couple of times. Two of us did a long return daywalk to the mountain back around 2010, but ran out of time to make the summit. In 2012 two of us attempted the circuit, but were held back by weather which busted a tent (<a href="http://sonsofthedesert-abushwalkingblog.blogspot.com.au/2012/01/attempt-on-mt-anne-circuit.html">see here</a>). This January five of us went, and arranged to be in Tasmania for more than the three nights needed for the walk so that we could wait out bad weather. We paid close attention to the forecasts, and found the only two completely clear days were in the middle of our window. Two consecutive clear days are what you need: a fine day is essential for the stage from Shelf Camp to Judd's Charm, as it is dangerous in wind or wet. The previous day is when you'd try for the Mt Anne Summit, so it too needs a clear day. Hence we girded our loins to start in the wet, since the climb to the High Camp Hut is pretty safe in any weather. And we tried not to think of the muddy walk out on the fourth day in the wet.<br />
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The Mt Anne circuit is a thing of legend; one of the truly iconic Australian walks that is genuinely challenging to the average walker. Preparation for it reveals an interesting problem: how to calibrate your own abilities against those of people who give walk descriptions. Some people on the web said it was easy, especially given the descriptions. Others said it was impossible, and were not able to complete it, even in good weather. Certainly some have died. So where were we located on this spectrum? It was hard to know. The current writer is the weakest with climbing of the group, and I still wasn't sure the more I read whether I'd find it straightforward or impossible, or somewhere in-between. It's equally hard to tell which the hardest bit is. Most would say the famous Notch that leads on to the scramble to Mt Lot, where most climb a 7m cliff face. Others say it's the exposed scramble to Mt Lot. Others say it's Lightning Ridge from Mt Lot to the Lonely Tarns. Having done it ourselves, we thought it was the boulder-scrambling along the ridge that leads to the Notch - something no-one else had mentioned!<br />
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In any case we were well prepared. Most descriptions reccomended that you take some rope for pack hauling. We took enough climbing rope and equipment to be able to abseil down things we didn't want to back-climb, and to belay the weaker climbers on exposed sections. We could likely have done without, but it would have been less safe.<br />
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So after a leisurely breakfast and lunch we headed off. Since we were aiming for the hut, we felt there was no point arriving too early and just waiting in the rain. Off we slogged and we arrived at the hut wet and cold, but at least we had done in the fastest time mentioned in Chapman's track notes.<br />
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Here we are with our puffies on, having arrived in the hut, and feeling a little worried about all the notices which promise that Velvet Furred Rats are going to eat us and our gear:<br />
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We huddled over our stoves in the hut and looked for the best places to sleep - a little later another party arrived, but between us and the couple that were at the hut already there was no room at the inn, so they headed out to set up their tents in the rain. Before they left they told us of their ambitious plan to get to Judd's charm in one day, taking in Lot's Wife and Mt Anne, which impressed us mightily.<br />
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After a bit the rain paused, and your photographer made it to the outside loo that has been installed near the hut, a wet slippery walk away. It must have one the best views of any toilet in Australia:<br />
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Next morning we were up and on the track early in the mist and cold. Soon we were scrambling over car-sized boulders. When we reached the summit of Mt Eliza there was still no visibility, and some of us had to be persuaded by instrument we had in fact got there! We then headed off over the easy track on the tops, and then the less easy sections through the boulder fields, until we reached Mt Anne Saddle and turnoff to Shelf Camp. The weather cleared before we got there, and here we are in good spirits with Mt Anne behind us.<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-dGk2qCP/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-dGk2qCP/0/1050x1050/_1220024-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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At this point you get the first intimation of the circuit route and how hard it is: here's a long-distance view from the turnoff: the little peak to the left is Lot's Wife which on this walk you don't reach, but in the centre is the boulder ridge that you scramble along then sidle around to the left of the rocky knoll to the right of Lot's Wife. You then pass behind the knoll and come out again at the little notch (called The Notch) before the bulk of Mt Lot. You then climb around at the base of the sheer cliffs you can see on Mt Lot, scramble up to the summit, and then descend on the ridge to the right of the picture - Lightning Ridge.<br />
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Here is the same view with a wider perspective, and Paul and Daniela modelling against the Sublime background:<br />
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Here it is again from Shelf Camp itself, which some of the ubiquitous <i>Richea in the foreground </i>that grows in the mountains of Tasmania<br />
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When we reached shelf camp most of the party headed back to attempt Mt Anne itself. I had woken up with a sore throat and a nasty cold, so I thought the afternoon's rest might make me fitter for the following day so passed on the camera to another to document the summit attempt.<br />
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The cairned route from the Mt Anne saddle leads to a grassy area on the SW side of the peak, at the top of the boulder field and at the foot of a rockface, a nice spot for a break. The climb to the summit starts at the far right side of the rockface, where a thin crack with large handholds makes it easy to scramble about 3m to a broad ledge. This ledge runs up and along about 20m to the left, where there is a second, smaller crack that that can be used to reach the next level. The ledge has narrowed to about half a metre by this point, so although it's an straightforward scramble and only a couple of metres, it feels pretty exposed. Here is Daniela in her new orange shell doing that scramble.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">From here a broad but sloping ledge leads back to the right, passing above the first crack and then around through the large columns in the photo below to put you on the SE side of the peak. Here we are standing on that ledge. The first crack mentioned above is visible in the bottom centre of the photo.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">From here you clamber over and around a few large boulders, no harder than crossing the boulder fields on the walk to the peak, but more exposed. After this a broad, upward-sloping ledge covered in vegetation leads to a point just below the summit and on the NE side of the peak. Here there is another straightforward scramble, not too exposed. After this scramble only a few more boulders separate you from the summit. None of the climbing is difficult, but several of the ledges and boulders slope down and then drop into the void, so a steady head is needed. These points would be a bit scary if the rock was wet and downright frightening if there was any ice about. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The summit itself commands extraordinary views on a fine day like the one we had:</span><br />
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Here's one of with Lot's Wife twinkling invitingly in the background: a real theme of this walk!<br />
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Then it was time to descend:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-7dB2s92/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-7dB2s92/0/L/DSC01020-L.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The hardest point is back-climbing down that second crack onto the narrow ledge. As we had a rope with us we opted to abseil straight down from the ledge where we are standing in the last photo. Because the mountain is made up of dolerite columns there are abundant opportunities to build an anchor. </span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">From these photos it looks as if it is an easy scramble back up our abseil </span><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">route. This is not true.</span><br />
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Back at Shelf camp your photographer was able to hear the coo-ee from the summit! Shortly thereafter the ambitious party who planned Anne, Lott, Lott's Wife and on to Judd's charm appeared, and had rather, ah, curtailed their ambitions: they were now returning to their original campsite, not even having made it to the Notch. Were they weak or we doomed? Only time would tell! When the summiteers returned we had a brief chance to admire the views: the gulf between Shelf camp and Mt Anne is a truly sublime spot, and as if in recognition of this a Wedge-tailed Eagle spent part of the afternoon soaring on thermals in there. After that it was dinner and bed!<br />
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The morning dawned beautifully clear; things were boding well for the scramble to Mt Lot! The first sign of the sun was the glow on the ridge line from Eliza to Anne:<br />
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And then the light hit the cliffs above our tents. My coincidence, the colour of our tents matched the colours we were wearing during the day, to the puzzlement of another party that came by our campsite.<br />
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And then the sun suddenly rose relative to our campsite, bathing the cold rock where Daniela is standing in the previous picture in warm sunshine. The tent in this next picture belongs to the father and sons team that made the journey from Judd's charm in three or four hours!<br />
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Then we headed off. Scurrying over the boulders with camera dangling and trekking pole in hand after it should have been packed away, I had a couple of scary moments that gave me pause. According to our research, this was easy compared with what was to come. What if I couldn't go on at a later stage, when it was too late to return? I was however quickly persuaded that we had plenty of time before reaching the point of no return, and that we should have a chance to see how hard the hardest bits were before then. Much calmed, I was able to get this picture of three of us sidling around the knoll, with Lot's Wife in the background:<br />
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Here are a different but overlapping three from another angle. Sorry about the similar pics, I just couldn't decide!<br />
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At about this point you get a great view of the high side of Mt Anne
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Soon we arrived at the Notch, and here we are astonished at the sight of a solo walker (who turns out to be from the Blue Mountains) coming from the west and sidling down what looks to be a hard bit of the Notch on the other side:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-hJ9MXJf/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-hJ9MXJf/0/1050x1050/_1230125-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Here's the same guy lowering his pack on a rope before starting the climb down: the pack gives good scale to the bit we have to climb up! It's about 7m high and can be done by climbing up the crack where the pack is dangling, then bridging the crack to get onto the ledges on the right, and finally stepping left onto the little triangular ledge (below the guys right hand in the picture) to find the good handholds on top and swing up to where he is sitting. There is another route to the right, but this feels more exposed.<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-fLPFLK2/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-fLPFLK2/0/1050x1050/_1230134-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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The descent into the notch from the east is straightforward and eventually we got everyone up the climb on the far side (with the weakest having much useful advice and encouragement from those who have a better idea of what to do on rock). We sent the best climbers up to build an anchor, and the less confident were then able to climb on belay. Waiting for the packs to be hauled up was a good time to admire the many natural bonsai southern conifers that cling to the mountain. This one has Lake Judd in the background:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-dLvWK3Q/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-dLvWK3Q/0/1050x1050/_1230147-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Here is another view of Lake Judd from near the Notch:<br />
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Much sidling and the occasional tricky bit and we gained Mt Lot summit itself in good time. This section was not as difficult as we had thought, though there were moments when we were glad to have rope for pack hauling:<br />
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The views from the top are entrancing. Here's one of the Northeast Ridge and Lot's Wife. Chapman says there is a rarely used route down that ridge.<br />
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And here's a picture of two of the party being entranced on the summit:<br />
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This is the view across the summit boulders back to the peak of Mt Anne:<br />
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And finally, the way forward! It's straight down those boulders, and then along the ridge until you leave the ridge just before the first lake you can see from this picture, which is Judd's Charm. Judd's Charm is one of the Lonely Tarns, and it's at 913 metres. The most distant of the three you can see is a full 20 metres lower.<br />
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On the descent there's a view of many tarns; this - Lake Picone - one has an interesting shape:<br />
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Here's Paul during one of our rest breaks:<br />
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Here you will need to look closely to see three of the party on the ascent of the next bit of the ridge.<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-2Vw3Qnh/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-2Vw3Qnh/0/1050x1050/_1230174-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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The ridge walk was magnificent and all too short. Soon we plunged into bush and began a descent to a moraine ridge between two lakes that took us to our campsite. We were briefly misled too by Chapman's notes. It seems as though he warns against side tracks to the lake before the track leaves the ridge and heads downwards on the left. But in fact these side tracks happen *after* the main track turns left. This caused us to doubt we had found the correct path, and waste some time backtracking.<br />
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Soon after this your photographer had a slightly nasty fall. Partly the cold, partly uncoordination, but partly something else: after all the airy scrambling, the typical muddy and steep Tasmanian descent through dwarf forest and tangled roots seemed familiar and easy. With complacency comes injury (as it also does with late afternoon). However it was no real problem, a very bruised ITB which slowed us down on descents the next day, but no real damage. Paul put the right protocol into place immediately: get everyone to stop, get the person who has fallen to eat sugar immediately against mild shock, and get the ibuprofen going before swelling can start. Remember the five or ten minutes you save by getting up quickly and going will be much regretted when you fall again.<br />
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Soon we were out of the forest and walking along the moraine ridge between Lake Picone and Judd's Charm. Here's a view of Judd's Charm from the ridge: the campsite is at the far left, and if you had a higher rez version of this picture you'd be able to see a tiny bather in the water near the campsite!<br />
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Soon we were at the Judds Charm campsite: a lovely site, with Mt Lot glowering above it:<br />
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Next day dawned a little more cloudy, but early in the day things were looking good. Here we are shortly after heading off with Mt Lot and the ridge we had descended the day before outlined against the sky behind us:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-7jMg5zR/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-7jMg5zR/0/1050x1050/_1240210-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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It wasn't that long before the weather started to change. Here's the last time we had the camera out before the piss-down began:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-mN6g8km/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-mN6g8km/0/1050x1050/_1240228-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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And here is a wider and unpeopled perspective on this last view of the Eliza-Anne-Lot massif; Mt Anne itself is sadly covered in cloud:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-9kKL6Vn/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-9kKL6Vn/0/1050x1050/_1240217%20Panorama-Edit-1050x1050.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
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The rest of the return was pretty uneventful. Just mud and tracks. The descent off the Mt Sarah Jane spur was harder, longer and slower than we thought, though. We had lunch by the Anne River, where it flows through the button grass plains. Whilst some of us managed to get thigh high in the mud at various times, the plains were in fact much less muddy than we expected.<br />
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So once onto the plains, and especially after hitting some duckboarding in the second half, we made very good time and it was early afternoon when we reached the car, wet and happy:<br />
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<a href="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-hBpvqXv/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://dbm305.smugmug.com/Nature/Anne-Circuit/i-hBpvqXv/0/1050x1050/_1240240-1050x1050.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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Wonderful walk! One of the most challenging and most rewarding we have done. Big thanks from this photographer to the rest of the party for keeping him on the track. It would have been terrible to miss it! Keep your eyes peeled (or RSS readers tuned) for more adventures of the Sons (and Daughters)!<br />
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DBMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02267044904600856553noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6591066960907120549.post-8252804399128341872013-08-06T16:44:00.002+10:002013-08-06T16:56:18.760+10:00Pic d'Anie<p>On our last free day in France we set out to walk from Arrette la Pierre St-Martin, a skifield on the Spanish border (1700m) to the Pic D’Anie (2504m) and down the other side to the Refuge de l’Aberouat (1400m) near Lescun. This was only possible because we were with family who were willing to drop us off and meet us at the other end.</p>
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<p>After a brief hunt around the ski lifts for the right track we set off with glorious alpine meadows to the east...</p>
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<p>...and to our west the barren Arre de Soum Couy. We were walking very close to the Spanish border and most of the people we met on our way up the Pic were Spanish.</p>
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<p>A couple of hours walking brought us to this cleft through the ridge separating the Arre de Soum Couy from the Arres d’Anie. (‘Arre’ seems to refer to a flat expanse of rock, but not a boulder field).</p>
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<p>Another hour took us to the foot of the peak itself. The Arres d’Anie was fascinating walking – the rocks were frost cracked to such an extent that they often looked like the splintered end of a piece of wood with us hopping from splinter to splinter. Too much concentration needed to allow any photography before this.</p>
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<p>From here is was a steep but straightforward climb until we reached the bifurcation between the track down the other side and the final scramble to the summit. K decided to sit it out in a small cave to save herself for the descent and was rewarded by a close inspection from a Griffon Vulture, probably hoping to repeat last year’s incident when a fallen climber was picked completely clean before her remains could be recovered. Here is a picture of one flying free at a bird show we attended the day before. They are a spectacular bird, with a wingspan of up to 2.8m.</p>
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<p>Meanwhile, on the summit, I was joined by an Alpine Accentor and one of the ubiquitous Alpine Chough’s, both no doubt accustomed to people dropping crumbs.</p>
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<p>This is the view from the summit south to the other peaks of the Cirque de Lescun. There were thunderstorms over in the next valley and it did not seem advisable to stay too long.</p>
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<p>We followed other people’s tracks along the side of the mountain,to the Col d’Anie, glad of our trekking poles when crossing snowfields on the steep slope.</p>
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<p>From near the Col we could see the beautiful crest known as Les Orgues de Camplong. Organ pipes are an over-used comparison when naming rock formations. We also had a good view of a marmot foraging on these juicy green meadows.</p>
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<p>The track to Refuge de l’Aberouat runs along the base of these cliffs, passing the usual picturesque shepherd’s summer residences. The back wall of that hut is the boulder itself.</p>
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<p>As we approached the Refuge and reentered the forest we could see in the distance the Pic du Midi D'Ossau that we had not quite managed a few days before.</p>
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<p>We finally reached the Refuge and our lift home after eight hours walking – the 1100m descent from the Pic to the Refuge was quite wearing on the joints, even with poles, but overall this was a truly memorable day in the mountains.</p>
Paul griffithshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06372695408357184772noreply@blogger.com0